Cleaning with Parafin?

WD-40 is just the job - it shifts the crud and then after a quick wipe off you just smear with oil - job done! ------ Rik

Paraffin generally contains a little water dissolved in it. Once the paraffin has vaporised the water is still there. So rust. (The Myford instruction sheet on replacing drive belts on ML7s etc warned against the use of paraffin for this reason). Years ago petrol could have been used but this has been illegal for a long time and is just unwise because of the fire risk. White spirit is sold for cleaning paint brushes etc and is almost ideal for the job. It is clean, cheap and readily available (more available than paraffin). I do worry about its flammability but the quoted flash point of about 35C suggests it should be safe even in British summers.

As Rik says after cleaning smear with oil (more oil the better).

JA

I use Comma Hyperclean for heavy degreasing - especially good for getting hardened grease out of bearings. Used it a lot whilst refurbishing a 1940's Studer Cylindrical grinder which looked like the grease had been in there since it was built! Avoid Paraffin like the plague as already said it promotes rust!

Another alternative if you can get it is PX24 - a multi purpose lubricant,corrosion inhibitor,dewatering & protective fluid - military grade product similar to WD40.

I use TSDA, brilliant stuff, and for the realy hard to shift items, ethoxy propanol! Not sure halfords stock it though!

Hi, I used parafin extensively in a small parts washer during my years as a maintenace engineer. This was however, mixed 50/50 with an industrial solvent similar to this **LINK**.

Parafin is good for removing other petroleum products, including greases. It also has some lubricating properties.

I don't believe it promotes rust, any iron that is totaly clean of oils or any other type of rust prevention will rust when left in the open air where condensation can form on it.

I have a small parts cleaner in my garage with parrifin in it and clean many things with it without having rust problems.

If you use parafin to clean, then let the bulk of it drain off and then wipe the parts down and reassemble and lubricate as necessary.

Regards Nick.

P.S. If you do use parafin, be sure to use a pair of suitable gloves to prevent it getting onto your skin, as it will wash out your natural oils and can leave you open to dermatitis. Best also to use a moisturising cream afterwards as well.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 15/06/2013 07:55:31

I have 'pseudo' ulterasonic cleaner (I think it has a motor with an offset weight on it inside) it isn't very good. When used with paraffin it seems to 'creep' out and get everywhere. This doesn't happen with white spirit - has anyone else encountered this?

Neil

Due to the banning of Chlorothene and Freon for use in Ultrasonics. We had to find an alternative. The Ultrasonic medium we eventually found is called, 'Micro' (2% solution) which cleans better than Freon did. As its Aqueous there is a need to do hot rinse afterwards. I have cleaned Pcb boards in it for a few seconds with no problems. It is used by the US Nuclear establishment to clean Nuclear components

The first solvent wash with White spirit is quite safe as its in a tank with a lid and we use brushes and the best brush is a soft toothbrush. It does affect some rubber components but plastics seem immune to it. It is also quite cheap to use and the evaporation rate is low in the closed tank.

Clive

White Spirit is the preferred option, and nowadays its as cheap, or expensive, as Paraffin.

Used either in the open or in an ultrasonic parts washer.

Phil

Late to this thread, but I've used parafin for many years with my vintage bike projects. However, I mix it 3:1 with motor oil. I fill one of those 600ml gardeners' spray bottles - available empty at garden centres for spraying insecticides. Put the 450ml of Parafin in first so the oil doesn't clog up the spray riser pipe, then top up with oil and give it good shake. Almost any light/medium oil will do - even used oil if it isn't too dirty. The nozzle can be adjusted to give a wide spray or a tight jet, as required.

Each time I buy an old wreck to tinker with (all I can afford) I spray-soak it all over with this mix and let it soak well in to all the cracks and crevices as well as spraying underneath.

I've found that a bike under a waterproof cover will last outside all winter without a hint of fresh rust once it's had this treatment applied, despite being surrounded by damp air. (Don't use one of those blue woven plastic 'tarps' though. They're not waterproof at all - they let water run through wherever the cover touches the object underneath.) Later, when it's spring cleaning time, the junk has all softened nicely and just wipes off with a hint of WD40.

The only problem is, I find Parafin almost impossible to obtain these days. Anyone know any good bulk sources?

It's good advice to wear gloves too when working with oils and solvents. I use black nitrile powder-free gloves that come in a box of 100 and go by the brand name of 'Bold', made by Aurelia and available from many sellers on eBay. Medium size suits me but I have relatively small hands. They're better being a little tight than slack. Nitrile gloves are the only type that resist oils and solvents, so avoid latex gloves. If you're working with petrol, wear two pairs and as soon as one of the outer gloves splits/tears replace the outer pair with fresh ones. Petrol is a known lymphoma-inducing substance (ask me how I know).

Neil.

Yes, central heating oil. Paraffin is a slightly more refined version that burns more cleanly but for cleaning purposes no noticeable difference. When we had oil fired heating I just used to drain a bit out of the tank for garage use.

Russell

Late to this post isnt a joke ! So is fazakerley any reference to the amunitions factory there  or is that your real last name ?

I use cheap spray on degreaser - non caustic type and buy it from a local auto parts store when on special , usually a dollar a can or so.

Edited By XD 351 on 13/10/2018 12:54:29

Always used kerosene, aviation grade, for cleaning any engineering items when in the Air Force as plentiful supply, bearings were always cleaned with non leaded gasoline. I would be wary of using WD 40 as it is deemed to be hygroscopic, which means that it absorbs moisture, not good for avoiding rust.

Dave W

I use white spirits for most cleaning jobs,but in case it might burst into flames/blow up/rot my hands off,I make sure to have my fire extinguisher/fire blanket/bucket of sand/gloves face mask ect all to hand before using it,no point in taking chances ! Cop yourself on,you,re only cleaning a lump of cast iron,not the Mona Lisa.

Paraffin used to be quite common until recent years [Esso Blue,and the other one,Pink ] but now all I can get is Kerosene. I dont see any difference,runs my heating system and my Primus stoves,along with cleaning off heavy muck,and cheaper than white spirits.

However,as others have pointed out,there is a wide range of stuff out there for cleaning,some of it very good,some of it it useless [ask me how I know ] The important thing is that when you are finished with the cleaning,dont spare the oil.

And after all that,have fun with your new machine,make sure it gets dirty,that,s what it,s all about !!

And it smells like cats pee, best avoided.

I'd second white spirit, and an oil up afterwards.

Regards

Paraffin and kerosene are the exact same thing. Paraffin is what it's generally called in the UK and kerosene is what it's called in the US.

By the way, WD40 is basically just odourless white spirit, with some aromatics and a small amount of very light oil added. I've seen the formula in the past on one of the safety regulators' websites - the formula is required for medical staff in case someone swallows a pint or two.

White spirit is again a UK name. Can't remember what 'white spirit' is called in the US - it's something like 'mineral spirits'.

+1 for white spirit. I believe our US friends call it Varsol..

Please let us know how much cleaning it needs in practice ! I expected mine to arrive encased in a block of chicken-fat and it was sensibly coated - 10 minutes with a bit of WD40 and a few rags did the job. Many grease removing chemicals attack certain paints and plastics so test it on a small patch first. I had no bother with WD40, your paint job might be different!

Take a little care with the advice on the web. Some of it dates back 20 years or more to a time when it appears Chinese lathes were a good deal rougher than is typical today. I was pleasantly surprised - true the lathe needed a gentle clean and a little fettling, but nothing like what the web had led me to expect.

White paraffin is available from garden centres for greenhouse heaters; white spirit is usually OK for cleaning but like WD40 it can damage some paint and plastics. Apart from the nasty fumes and fire risk petrol is a good cleaner. Diesel is poor, not very effective and greasy.

After cleaning don't forget to re-lubricate everything that might rust.

Enjoy

Dave

Just to mention that there's an underlying assumption with any of the smelly cleaners above: that the machine is located away from the house (shed, garage etc). If it's within the house .... lots of luck (especially with swmbo).

Just wondering about petrol being illegal?? I use it for really greasy parts & I use cellulose thinners for de-greasing & cleaning paintbrushes & sprayguns,safe if used properly,I don't let celly thinners near paint of course.

Graham.