Strip Down to Clean New Warco 250V

I received my new Warco WM250V last Friday and have been slowly getting things together in the workshop ahead of installing it. I'm having to do a lot of sorting out and moving around, but have also unpacked the crate and at least verified that the motor and speed control work. I'm going to fit a DRO system and thought that it would make sense to fit the scale for the Z axis before installing the lathe onto the stand, as accessing the rear of the bed will be more difficult afterwards.

I also need to clean all the shipping grease off the machine and was wondering how far to strip down the saddle and cross slide. How easy is it to disengage the saddle from the lead screw and remove it from the bed?

Why bother to remove it? Can you not just clean all around it. I would not strip anything from a machine unless I had to,it,s not always easy to get it back together again. Let sleeping dogs lie.

As far as I remember, I didn't strip mine at all when I got it in April '15. I cleaned off the top surfaces of the bed and crosslide, and then I think I got to work.

First thing I did was to modify the baseplate accessory so that it'd fit my Myford vertical slide - I wanted to mill a dovetail side plate to secure a finder sight to a 6" reflector telescope.

The only necessary cleaning job I think I missed is the underside of the bedways - the blob of metal that is the tailstock nut could get stuck and sometimes wouldn't slide freely till I cleaned the crap off under the bed.

Enjoy the 250 - I've been happy with mine. Just don't let the power feed overrun the limits of travel in any direction!

Jonathan, Looking at your picture the lathe appears to be as clean as my WM250 was when it arrived. There is very little shipping grease on it. It is NOT necessary to take the lathe to pieces nor is it a good idea. Just wipe everything down with a rag and WD40 then wipe with a dry rag. Check carefully for any dents or scrapes on the bed etc. Oil everything copiously finding all the oiling points. Wind the bed back and forth check there are no tight bits. I found the bed gibs at the rear and the gross-slide gibs were all too loose for my liking, adjust as necessary. Check that the change wheels are assembled with the right clearances and grease or oil well (I prefer grease on mine, it stays put). That is all you relly need to do. I have probably forgotten something but someone will be along to remind me in a minute.

Good idea to add the DRO before mounting the lathe access all round will make the task easier. Be carefull when you finally lift the lathe into place don't snag any of the DRO cables or scales.

John

The handbook should give you maintenance instructions which cover this topic.

My WM280V arrived last week . I used WD 40 to remove the shipping grease . Wound the saddle and slides backwards and forwards a few time until the liquid came out clear , Lubricated the lead screw under the expanding sleeve added a smear removed the adjustable dials and gave the internals a smear of grease . Result, clean lathe and much improved 'feel' to the dials . Had to put braincell in gear to realise that the dial is calibrated for diameter change not depth of cut .

On a similar machine the American importers , Grizzly, recommend a ' break in' period followed by an oil change .

Brian

On the subject of oil etc, is it normal for the wm280  to leak oil from the carriage gearbox?

My 250 did. Seems to've stopped now. Don't think it matters, unless you run very long and fast.

In answer to the question, easy.

Removed the lead screw cover screws securing it to the rh support block, same on the rh side of the saddle.

Now remove the screws securing the cover on the left side of the saddle.

Remove the support block from the rh end of the lead screw, wind carriage to rh side of machine, ( take off the tail stock first) and disengage from the rack....you may need to support the lead screw...

I have a 290 lathe and there is a drop of oil hanging from the underside of the carriage gearbox. I have topped up once in 3 years so it isn't much of a problem and I will leave it as is at least for now.

Thor

I think you'll need to tap out the leadscrew shearpin near where it exits the headstock gearbox in order to release the leadscrew.

Lead screw can be left in position, preferably supported....

Just watch the covers, they are very springy...

I am thinking of getting a Warco WM250v lathe, could someone possibly measure the height from the feet of the lathe bed up to the headstock spindle centre. Reason I need to know is I am possibly mounting the lathe onto my existing bench & need to know if I need to alter my bench height. Many thanks Martin.

None of my change wheels fitted except those that were on the machine when it arrived & those I had to remove with a hub extractor. The remedy was to run a 14mm reamer through them all. The start is, and always has been, dodgy & i sometimes have to press it 4 or 5 times to get it to start. The lathe regularly stops during use.

I have taken the change wheel cover off & put the stop tag in to the socket & fixed it in place permanently. I have taken the chuck cover off & rotated the spindle so it thinks it is in the start position . Both of these guards are a pain in the proverbial.

The cross slide had so much play that I have had to remove it & there is a split nut which I have had to tighten appreciably to remove most of the play. However, play is returning so either the nut is wearing or the set screws in the nut have come slack again.

When the machine arrived I cleaned it with diesel fuel & dried it with absorbent paper towels

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/02/2018 19:16:14

Taking the chuck cover off could lead you open to a nasty accident, have you ever left a chuck key in and then tried to start the spindle? I did when I was in tech college in the 60’s, we didn’t have chuck guards then, I was fortunate the key just launched the length of the workshop and contacted the end wall with a loud bang, nowhere near the volume of the b’’’’’’’’’’’’’g that I got from the instructor, I did learn from that mistake and fortunately nobody was injured, we’ll only my pride. I would ask anyone to seriously think of possible consequences from removing a chuck guard, I don’t find mine in any way a hindrance it just becomes an automatic action to lower the guard before spinning up the spindle.

Dave W

That's why they now come with springs on the chuck key so you can't leave them in the hole.

Not really worth stripping it anymore than you have already, did not on my 280 and still going strong after 9yrs. Start pulling it about too much and you may void the warrantee!

Chis Mine drips but I just top up as needed.

Edited By JasonB on 14/02/2018 19:55:05

Thanks Mick,Thor, Jason... nothing to worry about then,  at least that's an indicator there's still oil left!

'Tis an Imperial Foot, near as I can measure on a freezing night..

Edited By Mick B1 on 14/02/2018 20:33:54

Many thanks indeed for that Mick.

...Why bother to remove it? Can you not just clean all around it. I would not strip anything from a machine unless I had to, it,s not always easy to get it back together again. Let sleeping dogs lie....

... As far as I remember, I didn't strip mine at all when I got it in April '15. I cleaned off the top surfaces of the bed and crosslide, and then I think I got to work....

​Same comments from me, I got mine back in 2012, I removed the saddle & leadscrew to fix saddle leak as well, it leaked from the 16mm plug at the bottom of the gearbox which you can't see without an inspection mirror. Watch out you don't lose the drive key from the lead screw I nearly did
​John Rudd gives you a basic rundown on removing the lead screw... but unless you absolutely have to take it out then DON'T, plus the spring coiled lead screw cover can be nasty to your fingers... don't ask!

​The drain plug is not a tapered plug hence the weeping oil I wrapped PTFE thread tape round on replacing it but it really needs a shouldered plug with a Dowty washer fitted, I'll either get a tapered plug or I'll make a shouldered plug from a 16 mm bolt on next oil change... probably autumn this year. In the meantime I keep mine topped up every couple of months, for the amount of time I have it running on my small bits, & the amount of oil that weeps it won't do any harm.

​I would fit a DRO system before you fit the fit the back splash otherwise as you can foresee it'll be difficult if you have the machine against a wall. I didn't have the finances to fit a proper DRO system at the time so have ended up using a couple of modified digital tyre depth gauges for my long travel & cross feed, both utilise neodyminininmum ? ​ magnets for attachment & work fine for me. the other item to check is the top slide gib strip on mine it was a miserable excuse for one, a piece of MS strip that only fitted where the corners actual touched, I made up a brass gib strip soonest. I have pics in my albums 'Lathe mods' if you want to peruse.

Just get cracking on practicing & learning it's foibles... enjoy

George.