Member postings for John Rudd

What is the issue with the armature Ed?

Is that a repulsive answer Michael? 🤣

I’ll get me coat…

deleted….got carried away to the point of nearly blowing a fuse..

Edited By John Rudd on 11/06/2023 14:15:09

Jason, thank you.

Agreed, except I put the bearings wrong way round!

So to recap, I need two 19 dia and a single 21…

I think I got that right.

Many thanks for your help.

Thanks Jason,

My comment was based on the dimensions annotated on the drawing for the crank nose housing….the front counter bore being 21 dia. and the rear 19…both being 5 deep. Then the crank journals are different too..

I am somewhat hampered by not having a full compliment of issues since moving house..I fear some have gone astray during the removal process.

Thank you Jason, just what I need….

However I thought the front bearing and rear bearings were a different size?

12 x 21 x 5 and 10 x 19 x 5…?

Maybe I havent read the drawings correctly?

I seem to have lost the ME pages containing the information on the bearing sizes for the crankshaft and camshaft.

Could someone either tell me the bearing sizes or the ME issue containing that information please?

Thank you.

Weird behaviour by the pot would show up with the lamp test…

As usual we jump in with both feet…..

My suspicion is with the motor, specifically the armature…either a bad segment or a poor contact leading to an open circuit winding.Check carefully at the commutator with a magnifying glass. You can check the continuity with an ohm meter…between the comm segments, the readings should be equal.

Firstly, check the speed controller by disconnecting the motor, then connect a 100Watt domestic incandescent light bulb in its place across the motor output terminals….The bulb should light up and be dimmable, every time you operate it…Do this many times, to prove its reliability.

If you feel able, strip out the motor, strip it down ( mark the motor end pieces relative to the main body! ) clean up the commutator with sandpaper, nothing else! Give it a wipe with a dry cloth and reassemble…

Check the brushes move freely in their boxes..

Put the motor back and try it again.

I’ve repaired many of these controllers where the motor has been the culprit every time….and repair isn’t cheap ( neither is a replacement)

So start with the simple things before reaching for the soldering iron…

Alan,

PM sent to ….

So if you can obtain the end caps, maybe ask the supplier if they can supply matching tube or recommend a source?

Mike,

HPC Gears tables give the overall dimension for various counts….should help as a starter…

https://www.hpcgears.com/pdf_c33/23.10-23.13.pdf

James, good to hear that its fixed...but it would be better if you knew what caused the failure in the first instance?

Usual failures are down to the motor...

hopefully your machine will continue to perform faultlessly...

Let me know if I can help further..

Edited By John Rudd on 20/11/2022 20:04:12

Posted by Ketan Swali on 16/06/2020 11:18:08:

It is a SIEG C2 lathe, spare parts for which can be found on this page.

Ketan at ARC.

https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machine-Spares/C2-Mini-Lathe-Spares/C2-182A-Control-Board-FC250J

Edited By John Rudd on 20/11/2022 20:06:52

James the boards can be repaired ( I do repair these and other boards for lathes/mills but am a bit busy at the moment) ....If you have the requisite skills and have access to parts...

Might be better for you to buy a replacement from Arceurotrade....

Just throwing this out there.

It’s conceivable that the chip is a micro, an ATtiny variety…the 4 pads may be the program connections…there’s 5v, MOSI, MISO AND GND….but no pads for Clock and Reset…,?

Easy enough to check with a meter..

Edited By John Rudd on 19/11/2022 21:53:16

The usual culprits on these boards are the Mosfets going short circuit....and taking out the opto couplers...

Pins 4 and 7 go straight to the bridge rectifier, if you measure between these two terminals, are they reading a low resistance? (check with the probes in both directions....ie, Red to 7 and Black to 4, then swap Red to 4 and Black to 7)

Edited By John Rudd on 19/11/2022 11:40:55

Disconnect all the wiring from the board...

Then:

Test with your DVM on Ohms range between pins 5 and 3, should read open circuit.

Test with your DVM on Ohms range between pins 6 and 7, should read open circuit

What do you have between pins 6 and 4? 

Edited By John Rudd on 19/11/2022 11:17:29

There is a new unused engine standard in the FS section……