Member postings for mechman48

After stripping it down I found out what the loud knocking noise was on my Scotch yoke engine; the piston securing nut had worked loose so on ea. motion the piston rod was sliding to and fro, butting up & taking up slack against the piston on ea. cycle, piston slap in essence. Spent a few hrs this week cleaning up parts, etch priming & rattle can spraying parts, making up base to suit model with brick & tile effect paper. Gave it a run & although quieter it still has a 'knock' on it, I can only put this down to crank pin slapping in the yoke slot even tho' measurements were checked & are as per dwg, more thinking required but for now it works.

George.

At last, finally got to the trial assembly & trial run on my Scotch Yoke engine. It sounds as though there is a knock on it somewhere, I reckon it may be the clearance between the crank pin & the yoke although I have maintained the clearances as per dwg. I've att. link to you tube channel for you look see. Next step will be to strip it back down & see if I can eliminate 'knock', followed by clean & paint job. Excuse the compressor noise, it takes a large volume of air for the cylinder bore size.

**LINK**

**LINK**

Another possibility is the flywheel mass is quite big & the inertia may be making the crankpin slap in the yoke slot ??

George.

At last, finally got to the trial assembly & trial run on my Scotch Yoke engine. It sounds as though there is a knock on it somewhere, I reckon it may be the clearance between the crank pin & the yoke although I have maintained the clearances as per dwg. I've att. link to you tube channel for you look see. Next step will be to strip it back down & see if I can eliminate 'knock', followed by clean & paint job. Excuse the compressor noise, it takes a large volume of air for the cylinder bore size.

**LINK**

**LINK**

Another possibility is the flywheel mass is quite big & the inertia may be making the crankpin slap in the yoke slot ??

George.

Welcome Shane, remember there are no stupid questions; only questions you didn't know the answer to.

George

I have a WM16 & it does not have a gas strut, mind you it dates back to 2012 so assume the new versions have one. I noticed Warco advertising the new WM16B, a belt drive, & Ade has a new WM18B which sounsd very quiet. Does anyone know if Warco's do a convertion kit for the WM16 ?. I know Grizzly version ( G0704 ) do a kit but the cost & import duty would be expensive.

George.

eBay... cheap as ... does 6-8-10mm

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224834946061?hash=item345935040d:g:AdEAAOSwH71iBhs9.

George.

see ..

https://w**LINK**

Cheap enough for a set to convert your grinder.

George.

Link ??

Same query for WM16. the nearest I have seen is the equivalent for Grizzly 0704 on their site, they supply kits for the 0704 but from the states, which requires large import / custom charges.

George.

Mike.go with your first Idea; make up a pair of blocks as gauges which could be used as matched packers later. Scrape them flat to your surface plate as master then scrape them flat to each other & see how close you can match them as a pair.

George.

Maged to catch up on my Scotch yoke engine latterly having been on the back burner since before Xmas...

Flywheel ..

Valve chest trial assembly..

Trial assembly..

Still lots to do, set timing, fix flywheel to crankshaft ( deviation from Dwg req'd ), trial run, strip, clean, check dim's, tweak as needed, paint, ( any advice on painting aluminium welcomed ) , I generally use etch primer to start with after de-greasing.

George.

Happy new year to all readers. I'd bought a pack of 10mm, round carbide insert tips to compliment my 6mm one. Had to make a holder to fit from 12mm sq.BDMS from my scrapbinium box...

I dont have a flame torch system that would heat & hold temp for 'oil toughening' but I reckon BDMS is pretty tough to take the cutting forces, not that I would use this tool a lot anyway, just another 'nice to have'.

George.

Same here; I haven't changed any gears since I got the machine way back in 2012, I have never needed to with the small threads I need. I usually work within the small mm range plus I have sets of BA & ME taps & dies & only use the A,B,C lever position for feed ranges.

George.

Got to start somewhere; why not with a simple repair job, the first of many no doubt, looks a good finish.

George.

Powetful magnets albeit odd shapes; tiny bearings, motor might come in useful for something small.

George.

Nicely done; give that man a woodbine.

Geo.

..I am sure that for foodstuffs it makes little difference as long as you aren’t supplied with 453.6g and charged for 500g'

Are you sure your not; & by the way I've not seen anything on sale with a weight of 453.6g it's always 100g, 450g, 500g, 1kg increments.

George.

+1

George.

Similar experience earlier this year; I purchased a 19 reg Vauxhall Mokka which still had 1 years manuf' warranty left on it, fortunately for me as it turned out. A couple of weeks later I noticed some fluid marks on the drive which I suspected may be brake fluid as it wasn't dark oil type stains. I arranged to have it back in the dealers garage for a check, along with a request to remove a nail from a back tyre & plug repair it. It turned out that the leak was from the aircon compressor.. 2 year old car..? . Fortunately for me the dealer said it was covered by the remaining warranty period so no cost to me, otherwise it would have been £700 fitted.

I asked them to replace two front tyres also as their tread depth was down compared to the rear tyres (inc' the one with the nail in) not beyond the legal limit though, so had decided to make them all equal before winter. As re. the nail, they didn't remove it as they claimed it was too near the sidewall to be a safe repair..?. I ended up taking it to Kwik fit ( usual disclaimer ) who told me the same reason, so ended up paying out for a new tyre albeit the original had virtually full tread depth left on it.

It goes to show that you can get a mix of good & bad advice from dealers & independents.As it was I'd covered all aspects so was happy with the outcome/s. It pays to have a bit of knowledge about mechanics but for those who haven't, it pays to get a second opinion.

George.

Did a bit more on my Scotch yoke engine; didn't have any material of near enough dia. to make eccentric strap so used a piece of larger dia. This gave me the opportunity to use my rotab' which has sat idle for a long time. Marked out strap OD inc. lug for connecting to valve rod, chain drilled through with 3mm drill followed by 4mm slot cutter to leave strap attached by lug. machined lug to dimensions still using the rotab, separated the strap via sawing down ea. side of strap, then finish machine the lug itself, pleased at how it has turned out. Onward & upward as the cliche goes..

Having the connecting lug integral prevented the need to mess about trying to braze a separate piece on.

George.