Member postings for Journeyman

I made this pair from stuff in the scrap box, definitely not hardened. Plenty of meat around the holes and I don't really see how you could apply enough force by hand to break them. They are after all designed to be tightened by using the knurled knob.

Or are we talking about a different design?

John

How about trying sacrificial zinc anodes to slow the corrosion. Have no idea if they would work for this use but shouldn't cost too much. Some more reading *** HERE ***

John

How about a microphone gooseneck. Fairly standard and available in different lengths. Fittings are available for the threaded ends. From electrical suppliers (CPC, Farnell or Amazon).

Home made job for lathe using a cheap pond lamp housing. Made years ago so possibly not available now. Construction details *** HERE ***

John

Appears to be an ISO taper as stated probably INT40 as this is common. These are non-locking tapers having a standard slope of 7:24 (≈16° included angle). There are several different systems all using the same angle taper but with different draw-bar threads, ends and flanges so it can get a bit confusing. There are also several size ranges 30 to 60 but by far the most common is 40, there is a vast range of industrial tooling made with this taper.

• ISO, NT, NMTB, DIN2080 - short parallel section at small end. Equal drive slots.
• CAT, CV, V-Flange, DIN 69871 - no parallel section. Unequal drive slots.
• BT, MAS403, DIN6383 - no parallel section. Equal drive slots.

Hope that helps a bit to identify what you have. I somehow doubt that you will be able to machine what you have to fit an R8 taper in the Bridgeport.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 25/08/2023 18:38:33

I have a Warco BDS460 Belt/Disc sander. Definitely designed for wood work although useable on metal. It really runs too fast for metal and whatever you are working on gets seriously hot. The dust extract is pretty inefficient and certainly doesn't capture all the sparks even with the shop vac connected. It is messy and whatever you do a layer of dust is distributed over the workshop. The motor as far as I can tell is an open frame 2 pole effort and not protected other than being inside the case.

I did a review when I first got it see BDS460 might be of some interest to those considering purchase.

John

Chris, have a look at my web page on milling machines it might help a bit!

John

Reading too much Terry Pratchett perchance. See The Fifth Elephant to explain the formation of the treacle mine

John

Bird's Custard Powder contains no egg the ingredients are simply :-

• Maize Starch
• Salt
• Flavouring,
• Colour (Annatto Norbixin)

So you need to grow some corn and set up a mill
Oh yes, you need to add the milk so you want a suitable source of that.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 13/08/2023 16:19:37

Built my workshop from scratch nearly 50 years ago now. Shiplap board over a light 2" x 1" frame with 2" x 2" corner posts. No membrane under board (not sure it was around then. 2" rockwool insulation in the walls and 4" in the roof. Never had problems apart from having to replace the felt a couple of times. Needs doing again soon and am contemplating putting steel profile sheet 34/1000 over the felt screwed directly to the 1/2" shuttering ply I used originally.

Couple of things I would do differently now. Up the timber frame to 3" x 2" and increase insulation, possibly using Kingspan or Cellotex (order of magnitude more expensive). Originally I fitted thin printed hardboard inside lining (cheap) and I put the wiring in the walls. If I did it now I would use 12mm OSB on the inner walls and use surface mount trunking for the wiring and sockets. Much stronger both for mounting shelves & cupboards and to increase security. Wouldn't use plasterboard, messy and not particularly good for load bearing. Engineering equipment and stock is on the heavy side!

John

Well you can download a DXF file for these at a cost of a mere $15. Operating the machinery I guess requires some skill but the output can neither be considered original nor handicraft.

If on the other hand the item is produced from your original artwork then it may well be handicraft.

John

There are indeed plenty of ways to fit the new stud. I screwed mine in and used the recess for a washer and lock screw.

The new post threaded into top-slide M10 thread

Underneath, centre of the post tapped M5 and washer fills the old recess.

Fitted together.

The end result on my WM250 with the 100 size version (AXA) wedge type QCTP fitted. See my webpage for more info.

John

Edited By Journeyman on 01/08/2023 09:14:32

I can remember making harmonographs at school to show off on an open day (an awful lot of years ago). Made two different versions, one with two pendulums and one with a compound pendulum. The twin pendulum version had a wooden frame, basically a plank with two square holes in. Tthe pendulums were simply steel rod about 3/8" dia 30" below the pivot and about 6" above. The pivots were fabricated from steel bar and rod to form a collar which clamped to the pendulum rod by a bolt in a tapped hole. The pivots were knife edges located in a groove made as i recall by simply filing the edge of a steel bar and a groove cut on a shaper. the bar was brazed onto the collar before drilling the centre hole through the collar and bar. Large lumps of 2" rod were drilled through for the weights again just a tapped hole for a bolt to allow adjustment up and down the rod. The fixed side of the pivot was fixed to a plate which fitted to the frame.

One of the pendulums carried a table fixed to the top and the other a rod to hold the pen suitably counterbalanced. The pendulum with the table swung fore and aft whilst the pendulum with the pen swung left and right. By suitably adjusting the weight up and down different swing periods could be set up.

The single compound pendulum worked much the same but with a shorter main pendulum with another bob on a short rod suspended at the end of the main pendulam rod by means of a short length of fine chain. The arm with the pen was fixed to the table and just pivoted up and down.

Both machines worked quite well as I recall and produced a suitable selection of Lissajous figures duly affixed to the classroom wall. All good fun and I might even have learned something from the exercise. I least I can still remember the basics after nearly 60 years.

John

P.S. Saw a harmonograph being demonstrated at The Midlands Show in 2018

Found a link to a Video of the one at Midlands *** LINK ***

Edited By Journeyman on 31/07/2023 09:46:59

Edited By Journeyman on 31/07/2023 09:49:40

Jaws from a sheet metal bender (press brake), might be usable in a bench vice.

From something like this possibly.

John

*** See below for a more accurate answer, Well found Nick ***

Edit: Add Image

Edited By Journeyman on 29/07/2023 10:02:26

Edited By Journeyman on 29/07/2023 10:08:42

I fitted a wedge type QCTP to my WM250 and find it a useful addition. Can still use the 4-way original post as well so have both options covered. Don't find any particular rigidity problems and if necessary can also do away with the top-slide and just fit the toolpost directly to the cross-slide.

You can see what I did here - Cross-slide toolpost and here top-slide toolpost for the WM250.

John

There is a link between coeliac disease and lactose intolerance. Once on a gluten free diet however the lactose intolerance will likely improve. Other side effects of untreated coeliac disease include iron deficiency anaemia, B12 (folate) deficiency anaemia and osteoporosis. It also has links to dermatitis herpetiformis about a 1 in 4 chance of getting that.

Coeliac disease is unlikely to see you off but can be unpleasant and debilitating.

John

That Tesco seeded is one of the 'better' gluten free breads. The fact that it was reduced implies that it was far from fresh. I do indeed suffer from coeliac disease so have no choice but to endure these offerings. Believe me they are infinitely better than those available 15 years ago.

All the gluten free loaves dry out very quickly and I find keeping them in the fridge helps to maintain a reasonable texture. Genius, Warburton and Promise all do reasonable facsimiles of 'real' bread. The supermarket own brands are, shall we say variable.

Other grains whilst available aren't necessarily useful for bread making and coeliac sufferers can't have anything with wheat, barley or rye as all contain gluten. The usual flour mixes these days use rice, potato and corn flour along with a few more exotic grains for flavour. Texture remains the big stumbling block with the usual additive being xanthan gum to hold things together.

One day they will find a cure but until then it is make do with non-bread bread, so to speak and pay the exorbitant prices for said exotic concoctions. Usually at least twice the price of a normal loaf. So enjoy the cheap sliced white while you may. Coeliac disease is thought to affect as many as 1 in 100 people and of those probably at least 75% are undiagnosed Just putting up with 'a bad gut' frequently fobbed off with a diagnosis of irritable bowel syndrome.

Oh well, just grin and bear it.

John

Probably cheaper, safer and quicker to buy a quartz battery movement (available everywhere) and fit to the face with a suitable adaptor. Similarly fitting the hands to the movement. Will look the same and likely just as accurate.

John

I just have a length of plastic DPC material on my WM250. It just bows up a bit if working very close to the headstock. Makes it a little easier cleaning up and stops most of the swarf getting under the saddle.

The bolts also serve to prevent swarf getting into the threaded holes for the travelling steady.

John

When logged in go to 'My Posts' in the green top menu. This will give a list but also has the option to 'View Ignored Members' click on the (X) alongside the name and it will unignore if that's the term.

John

You might try one of the radio controlled clocks. I have an Acctim battery alarm, keeps perfect time and automatically updates to BST/GMT on the appropriate date. Links to the time signal from Germany.

John