Member postings for Sam Longley 1

Bit of a pain walking about with a microwave under your arm though

Thanks everybody for taking the time to post. I have learned something today.

Obviously things like this need practice & I only have one gearbox to assemble. However, I will have a starting point to work from.

Turn it off. Let it go cold. Buy a freeze pack, or hire one. Freeze the pipe . Cut it & insert a ball valve. You can then play with the amount of restriction as much as you like.

Copper would come as table X Y Z the thickest being for underground use. The thinnest- thinwall-, could not be bent in plumbers bending machine. If your house does not have loads of bent sections of copper, but bends made with fittings, then it is more likely, thinwall & you will crack it for sure.

I know that this is a very basic question to some. But not to a spanner monkey

I have to connect the saildrive gearbox of my boat to the engine. There are about 8 No M8 or 10 bolts (no nut) to go around the perimeter. It is in a very confined space.

I am aware that this should be done in a diagonal sequence. I will be borrowing a torque wrench ( click type not flexible rod to a dial) of the range to suit the bolts. I currently do not know the correct torque, but will look that up from the manual.

Can someone please describe the correct proceedure for using the wrench.

I am told that if a bolt is set, then trying to torque it again, gets an incorrect reading. If that is so then how does one tighten the bolts evenly around the perimeter of the gearbox.

I just wonder how an engineer does it properly- Assuming that there is a "proper" way

Thinking differently would not a demountable frame 2.2 M tall a bit like a child's swing with a small electric hoist work?

4 stainless steel 25mm diam legs & a short cross bar with 4 sockets. Just put it together over them & the hoist could be on 1 leg with a dynema cord going up over a light pulley clipped to the top

If they fall over a lot, have one permanently welded up with 4 small castors & just move it over them.

Lift the casualty with a webbing strop under the arms.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/12/2022 15:21:29

Has the OP considered exactly how he would get the bag under the casualty? Is the intention just to raise their upper body into a sitting position untill help comes, or raise the entire frame. How does the bag help get the person on to their feet without them rolling off & sustaining further injury. Or just as bad - creating undue stress during the process.

Is the intention to make a comfortable bed?- In which case a decent lilo would be just as good. Placed correctly & then inflated might ease the pressure points for a while.

Ambulances can take a long time to arrive.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/12/2022 11:22:27

Apologies. I thought that he had the cushions but could not pump them up. Careless of me

This forum no longer allows me to edit my post which is a little iritating. Otherwise I would remove it.

But if it is air bags that are wanted, then go & see a bouncy castle firm & get some glued up. Then use the pumps that I suggested. They could probably make the bag seat shaped as well, thus putting the patient into a sitting position

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 15/12/2022 09:43:25

I hope that I have understood what you are after correctly

You only need about 3 PSI in these bags & I inflate airbags ( size 2.4 * 1.5 diam) for laying moorings weighing up to 2.5 tonnes with a simple high volume, low pressure pump costing £18-00. iin under 15 minutes. But mine is 240 V & you want 12 V

May I suggest 2 options first is an inflatable dinghy pump as sold by marinescene & other yacht chandlers- There are many- Marine scene

Or you could just use a simple hand pump as I use for my Avon dinghy. Stirrup pump they do foot operated ones. It is not rocket science to make the adaptors fit You would inflate your bags in a 30 strokes of the pump & for the cost it is worth experimenting. You will not have battery issues to worry about.

For batteries one could just get small ones & keep them charged such as a scooter battery. Or go into an RC model shop & buy a couple of LIPO batteries & a charger & get them to explain how to charge & store them. They may even solder the correct connections on for you if you ask.

Trouble with Alibre Atom is that the free trial is only for 30 days. So if one gives it some intense effort one still would not get overly profficient in that time. I must admit that having looked at the tutorials I did think of giving it a go. But when I emailed the UK distributor & was quoted £269 + VAT I decided that it was just a silly price to pay for the amount I would use it. I have been told by others that this includes £70 + VAT support but that does not sweeten the pill much. So it was not even worth playing with the free trial.

25 years ago I was lightening fast with Auto sketch, but that skill has long since gone & I am not sure if it will run on my current platform. But if it is obtainable it is good if one can use it enough to get used to using the key presses to speed up the operations.I expect it has been superceded by much better programmes . Trouble is they often get harder to learn..

I am currently trying Freecad. I am having difficulty getting started. But at 75 years of age that is hardly surprising. I expect that I will crack it over the winter though, as there is little else to do. It is a case of finding the right set of You Tube tutorials. I did try one & it was not so good. I am on another & find it much better.

So I think that one has to decide how far one wants to go & how much effort one wants to put into it. If the answer is not a lot, then one has to go for a simple sketching one & be aware that it will not do much more than pencil & paper & not much quicker. But it will rub out & alter things easier.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 14/12/2022 10:25:17

I have been reading this thread with interested- seeing as I was the one that started it.

A couple of things have confused me & I may have missed them in the text.

I can grasp the point about striction when applying torque. I can understand the principle of rotating a bar a certain number of degrees rotation to acheive a certain torque- although the starting point may be a bit variable surely?

But I do not understand stretch- well I understand that a stud or bolt will extend in length as torque is applied. But how on earth can one measure that when it is buried in the clamped work piece?

The next point, & once again I apologise if I have missed it - What is yield tightening? I know that mild steel reinforcing rod can be placed under tension. It will give then stop giving, then actually become "stronger". That is part of the process of making high tensile reinforcing rod.

But how is this applied to a bolt or stud? Or is yield tightening something else?

Apologies for the ignorance but I am genuinely interested. I will ask about wheel nuts later.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 26/11/2022 15:43:31

Had not occurred to me. Thanks

When tightening a nut or bolt to a specific torque, should the thread be lubricated?

If so should one use grease or oil?

If it makes a difference from a dry situation, what sort of difference one should expect?

What sort of accuracy should one expect from the typical torque wrench purchased over the counter? (yes I know, how long is a piece of string? But I expect that you get the idea)

I ask because it has been suggested to me that lubrication causes up to 40% error & a typical wrench 15- 20% inaccuracy. The 2 combined could make a mockery of torque figures if they were meant to be dry fastened.

But if so how would one control friction in the thread?

Any chance of a picture please?

I might be right off track here BUT:_

Do they not make sets of a certain type of tap that work by increasing the size of tap? So the first one might be less than 10mm The next a bit nearer & the third one might be the recognised size.

If you want to have a tight fit you would only use the first couple of taps & omit the final one

Does that make sense?

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 25/09/2022 13:28:14

When I had my second or third colonoscopy, It was decided to put me fully under, rather than partially, as before. This was because previously the surgeon had removed a piece "the size of a golf ball" & caused me considerable pain. My heart had also stopped. Well it would wouldn't it

Whilst waiting for the anasthetic to work the surgeon instructed his 2 rather pretty young nurses to assemble the camera & probe & monitor. He had his back to us. As I was on my side I was looking straight at the screen & as they focused it in, the nurse with the probe stuck it up the skirt of the other nurse. A real case of successful " Upskirting" in my view. As I went under I had this monitor view of - Well you can imagine- & I heard the surgeon saying " Oiy! stop that now. If I ever catch you doing that again, you will both be out of here for good"-- Spoil sport.

If my heart had gone for good this time, I later reflected that, in some ways, it would have been a nice memory to take with me.

But did you do it correctly? I always understood that it should be "1/3 way down". Even though described as "half mast" Not that I intend to google it.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 12/09/2022 08:02:53

But, if you did not know that it was a fire hydrant sign how would you know to google such? The Op seems amazed that the Northern post printed the feature. Your comment is correct. Just because he knew about them, does not mean that my 13 year old grandson & a good many others, would have a clue.They might find such an article of some interest.

Edited By Sam Longley 1 on 12/09/2022 07:55:55

I would like lorries & the local school bus to keep to their side of the road when there is ample room to do so. I would like the porche driver who smashed my wing mirror the other day when I had slowed to <10mph in a 30 zone whilst he careered down the middle at over 40MPH to burn in hell. I would like to ban the oversized camper vans that drive on the wrong side of the white line at every corner & even on straight roads as if they are entitled to extra room. Same goes for the oversized farm tractors & trailers that can easily keep to their side when passing their mates going the other way but seem to ignore every other road user.

In fact I think white lines should be reconstructed with great spikes to puncture any tyres of those who cross them.

Thanks for the offer. I am considering having them posted to the royal north sea yacht club in Ostend. I get on well with the harbour master.

As for digital versions. We all have digital mapping. But like any responsible mariners we all want charts as backups. They are far easier for passage planning as well. We are doing the standing mast route to Dordrecht from Flushing. A trip I have done a number of time. We may carry on to Amsterdam if time permits.

I have bought from them because the said free delivery for goods over £100 but I am not sure that included DHL's charge.

their Emails suggest that it did not