By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Chuck Salvage?

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Tony Wagstaff20/12/2010 05:14:27
avatar
3 forum posts
Hi all,
 
I am just getting bck into my workshop after a break of a few years. Most of my gear is in good condition due to the way that it was cared for previously, but my 4-Jaw chuck was on a  shelf by a window that got broken.
As you can imagine , weather and condensation have been hard at work on it and now the rust is at a point where the chuck key will not even begin to move the jaws. I have soaked the chuck in WD40 and also tried light lubricating oil but still nothing wants to move.
Does anyone know of a way to recover the situation or am I going to have to bite the bullet and buy another chuck?
 
On a similar subject, my change gears are covered in a deep layer of rust too. I can clean it all off and the gear below seems to be fine, but it is a long slow job with wire wool. Is there a quicker way to clean them without damaging them?
 
Cheers folks
 
Tony
John Olsen20/12/2010 05:57:59
1294 forum posts
108 photos
1 articles
For the change wheels, I would probably try a rotary wire brush. I would not worry too much if they end up with a few rust pits on them, it is not going to hurt for general screwcutting use.An alternative might be the electrolytic process, which will take off all the rust and leave clean metal behind...having not tried this I am no expert, but the results I have seen look good.
 
I'm not sure about what can be done about the chuck. I would persist with the  WD40 etc to see if you can get things apart, because if you can then probably it will clean up enough to be useable, bearing in mind that mostly with a four jaw we are not so dependent on the chuck itself as on the setting up.
 
regards
John
David Colwill20/12/2010 08:23:11
782 forum posts
40 photos
Might be worth looking at the post "restoring a steam engine" in beginners questions as several methods were covered in that.
Good luck.
Dave.
John Stevenson20/12/2010 10:22:09
avatar
5068 forum posts
3 photos
Go to B&Q and look for some brick and concrete cleaner, ignore anything that says green on the label.
You want something that contains phosphuric acid, don't panic it's one of the friendly ones.
 
Mix this up 4:1 with water and lob the chuck in any anything else that's gone rusty.
A day or two later it will come out with a matt grey sheradised looking finish and no rust.
 
You can do it in the workshop the fumes don't attack metal like some of the other acids.
i have a tub of it stood on the floor at the side of a very large dividing head and it's not touched in in over a year.
 
I got mine to descale black steel before machining as the scale was playing havoc with small drills.
 The acid can be disposed of down the drain after use or thrown onto the path or yard, after all that's what it was made for.
 
John S.
Terryd20/12/2010 10:56:27
avatar
1946 forum posts
179 photos
Hi John,
 
You're correct about the phosphoric acid, that's why Coca Cola works so well (have a peek at the ingredients).  However some brick cleaners which builders use to clean cement off brickwork contains hydrochloric acid (aka Spirit of Salts) which fumes and rusts steel very quickly, so read carefully the labels.
 
I have used a non acidic product from Arc Eurotrade called 'Restore' which removes light rust, once the worst has been removed, in around an hour and is very effective.  It will remove heavier rust but it exhausts the solution quickly.  It also produces an anti rust coating which provided some protection afterwards (but not perfect).  Have a look here.
 
For the chuck, try heating it in an oven to around 150 deg. C then cooling quickly with water, which will penetrate and soften., keep repeating and it should help.  This was recommended on the 'Old Iron' forum by the guys who restore old engines which have lain in fields for years.  Persevere, it will be ok eventually.
 
Best regards and seasons greetings,
 
Terry
Peter G. Shaw20/12/2010 13:28:43
avatar
1531 forum posts
44 photos
Diesel is reputed to be very searching as well, but I've never tried it. Also the black penetrating fluids do work eventually. Finally, there is always the old standby - blowlamp. After all, you've not got anything to lose, and don't forget that your car servicing dealer is more than happy to take the blowlamp (acetylene torch) to anything rusted up on your pride and joy.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
 
Ian S C21/12/2010 02:33:44
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos
I used to be sceptical, but it seems that milk also works, its some thing to do with lactic acid, it might smell a bit. Ian S C
Tony Wagstaff21/12/2010 14:53:00
avatar
3 forum posts
Hi guys,
 
Seasons greetings to you all.
 
Thanks for all your responses.
 
I already have some brick acid so I'll try that first.
 
Tony
Gordon W21/12/2010 15:57:05
2011 forum posts
This derusting topic keeps cropping up. My advice is drop into paraffin ( better than diesel)  ,tap all moving parts gently on a regular basis, and have patience. I've recovered all sorts over the years, including a small engine that had been at the bottom of the sea for 5 yrs. Read on a US website , a test of penetrating fluids concluded the best was a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and acetone, haven't tried it yet but sounds right.
Stub Mandrel21/12/2010 16:17:06
avatar
4318 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles
I am a believer in the electrolytic method. It has been described in other threads.
 
Neil
KWIL21/12/2010 17:47:12
3681 forum posts
70 photos
The electrolytic method is fine for lower grade materials but you can get hydrogen embrittlement of  steel if you leave it too long.
Ian Abbott21/12/2010 18:06:56
avatar
279 forum posts
21 photos
I like the citric acid method.
 
About ten days ago, I picked up a load of Whitworth spanners from the recycle in Newton Abbot.  They'd been sitting in the rain for who knows how long, so I searched around for any other stuff that needed de-rusting and dumped the lot in a bucket  of water with 100g of citric acid.
 
The next morning, the bucket was frozen solid.  It's still frozen solid.  I've now forgotten what exactly is in there.
 
Ah, the joys of no heated work space.
 
Ian 
Ian S C22/12/2010 02:50:20
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos
I think Gordon W is the one to follow, don't try anything more aggressive untill you get the thing to bits, then you may need the citric acid, or the electrolitc method to clean up the individual parts.  Ian S C
Terryd22/12/2010 04:33:59
avatar
1946 forum posts
179 photos
Ho Tony,
 
Just make sure your brick acid doesn't contain Hydrochloric acid (spirit of salts or Muriatic acid in the US etc) as I said above.  That plays havoc with steel components.
 
T
Gray6222/12/2010 18:47:50
1058 forum posts
16 photos
I've been experimenting with the electrolytic method for a few weeks now. I am trying to rescue a badly rusted 12" 4 jaw chuck. So far the process has been positive, I have a significant sludge of rusty coloured materiel building up in the bottom of the tank and the surface of the chuck body is slowly turning black, I must admit, I'm a little sceptical as to the condition of the jaw feed screws once this process is complete as they are significantly rusted. If I can save the body and the jaws I will deem that a success, the screws can be manufactured. If it fails, I have a 12" door stop that will withstand a force0 gale . It cost me nothing so owes me nothing, although I don't tell SWMBO how long the power unit is running for !!
Gordon A23/12/2010 01:01:00
157 forum posts
4 photos
I have had good results in the past with the electrolysis method, but have used  white vinegar on other occasions, just another mild acid (acetic). The type that SWMBO gets me is probably just an uncoloured version of the type that accompanies fish and chips !
Chris Trice23/12/2010 01:08:52
avatar
1376 forum posts
10 photos
You can buy white (clear uncoloured) vinegar from most supermarkets. I've used it for cleaning brass pieces although the smell can get a bit pungent.
 
John Olsen23/12/2010 04:53:11
1294 forum posts
108 photos
1 articles
I would have thought the results from the electrolytic process would be both positive and negative
 
On a more serious note, I have often been surprised at how rusty something can look and still be perfectly OK after it has been cleaned up. With the jaw feed screws, you only need a reasonably smooth running surface, the accuracy does not depend on them, so I would guess that a bit of cleaning up with wet and dry will leave them OK for use.
 
White vinegar is mostly made from white wine and the brown stuff is made from malt. The acetic acid will be exactly the same in both cases so either should do. If you eat pickles a lot, the leftover juice from the jar will do for pickling, the  odd bit of stuff floating in it won't hurt the job. Don't reuse it for more pickles afterwards.
 
regards
John
 
 
Len04/04/2013 02:53:23
4 forum posts

Try a little heat with a blowtorch, but nut too much, work the screws backwards/forewards etc etc etc. usually persistence pays off, vinegar is more generally used on corroded aluminium / steel.

peter Humphreys 212/04/2013 23:32:04
10 forum posts

I've used cheap (value brand, £0.21 for two litres) on an old motorbike fuel tank, came up gleaming but I did have to buy 12 bottles and then found all the little pin holes where it had rusted through.

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Shopping Partners
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate