Member postings for Terryd

Thanks Noel,

I appreciate the time it takes to write these texts in the context of a busy day. I now intend to make the jet easily removeable so that I can experiment with a range of nozzles. I do have a mig welder so have a range of tips to try if I can't get the range of jets I need. I also have a number of calor gas jets of various diameters which came with a gas hob, I know that they are perhaps larger than i need but it may be worth a try for experimentation.

Thanks for the heads up on the straight run before the nozzle, it makes sense to help remove turbulence. Do you know if your 15x suggestion is a minimum, can it be more, or a standard i.e. no more, no less?

I did some contract design work many years ago with a company, Wellman Incandescent, on gas fired tunnel kilns but was concerned only on the construction design, we had a qualified gas engineer who designed the gas flows etc.

Regards

TerryD

Hi Noel,

Thanks for adding more information , I'm beginning to see through the fog, but it hasn't cleared completely

The only book I can find related to the second one you mention is by Steve and Stephen D Chastain, - 'Small Tilting Oil Fired Furnaces'. Do you have a link to the one you referred to?

The first one you mention is availble on Amazon pre-owned for £93 so I intend to forego that one, I might see if my local library can access a copy or pop into the British Library next time I'm down there.

Regards

TerryD

Hi Jason,

I've made similar nozzles before for my 3d printer I constructed a long time ago. Those nozzles were in aluminium. As I have no sensitive feed device on my tailstock, to hold the drill I used a small pin vice which was in turn carried with a sliding fit in the tailstock chuck ( hope that makes sense) and was able to feed sensitively by manually feeding the drill with vice held loosely held in my fingers and drill guided by the shaft in the chuck.

Talking about that gives me an idea. I have a couple of miniature chucks somewhere, very nice they are, which I could attach to a spindle of say silver steel in order to do the same job. Hmmm I'll think that one through and perhaps put something together to act as a sensitive, hand held drilling device for very small holes - although not down to 0.07mm

Regards

TerryD

Edited By Terryd on 28/09/2022 14:36:53

Hi Dave,

Thanks for that explanation it starts to reduce the fog to a mist. I can see the simplified theory of gas to air ratio but if you have a gas jet that is a bit oversize surely you can regulate that by varying the gas flow and the Bunsen style air control on a burner?

At the moment I'm considering a ceramic style burner using the standard gas fire radiant which should with the right distribution of gas create a less focussed heat source. As for the boiler construction the Stuart 504 it is intended for seems to be well constructed and there are many types of gas burner on sale including Stuart ones to replace the original meths burners so it should not be a problem. My own boilers which I have constructed so far are basically pot boilers with no external boiler tubes (although I might get a bit more adventurous) silver soldered with Easy Flo or equivalent so I think that they should be ok.

I also thought that perhaps gas jet sizes were related to an older standard such as number drills or wire gauges but wire gauges get smaller as the number increases while the opposite is true of gas jets i.e. from memory in SWG 10g is 1/8th " while 16g is 1/16th" and 21g is 1/32nd". not sure about AWG or BWG but I think that they approximate having used AWG electrical wire in the past.   In the case of number drills they do not seem to relate to older jet sizes, again diameter is inverse to number. I find it all quite confusing hence my decision to stick to metric where there is direct correlation between size and number - my simple mind can understand that much at least

Regards

TerryD

Edited By Terryd on 28/09/2022 13:52:54

As well as saying I'm staying with metric I really should have given a reason. It seems to me that a number which is related to the actual size seems more logical. But who am I to say?

TerryD

Hi Michael, Thanks for the posting, I did some more digging and decided to go metric, I only use imperial when necessary such as working on Stuart models, even then as my machines are metric I have to translate which is not a problem as i had to do a lot of that in my early engineering career when the uK was entering the modern world . I found an 0.35mm jet which he produces and according to information I can glean from the mysterious world of gas jets it equates to a #16 which seems to be recommended size for the ceramic burner I'm constructing. They're not too bad a price either especially as delivery costs are included. I can afford to experiment somewhat with different jets, I know I could look and learn more about them but life's too short, I'd raather be making than learning too much theory these days.

I'm not really sure that the jet size matters that much as long as they are not too small as the gas flow can be controlled by the regulator valve surely? I don't really understand being a tyro in this part of the hobby, I've generally used spirit (meths) burners or gas poker burners in the past.

Regards

TerryD

So you are saying that there are a number of standards, is there a different ANSI one? Is there a data chart on the Imperial ones, I seem to get some conflicting results when searching. I tried HMEM but any links I could find are now defunct and most charts are concerned with gas consumption rather than size and I'm no gas engineer, when designing blast furnace equipment our blast valve orifices were measured in feet not mm.

Regards

TerryD

Edited By Terryd on 27/09/2022 16:48:37

There appears to be a lot of confusion in the case of burner jets, I'm confused.

I'm building a similar steam plant using a Stuart 504 boiler intended to drive a Stuart beam engine. and eventually a 10V and 10H (not at the same time).

I see that above is recommended a # 16 which is said to be drilled to 0.35mm However looking at eBay again I see a lot of listings where the number is directly related to the hole diameter, e.g. a #20 is 0.2mm dia, a #15 is 0.15 mm dia and a #73 (at random) is 0.73mm dia. Here is an example.

Are there a number of standards? is the latter I mentioned perhaps a European standard?

As I said, I'm confused.

TerryD

Edited By Terryd on 27/09/2022 13:08:08

Hi alI,

hope that I'm not jijacking this thread, forgive me if I am. I need to know what threads are in the various bushes on a Stuart Turner 504 boiler. I'm not sure if the modern Stuart version has the same threads as the older ST one, perhaps someone could enlighten me?

Best regards

TerryD

Hi,

M10 x 1 are available on Tracy tools for £5 - cheaper than set of boring bars for a one off, then sell it on here or eBay.

https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/metric-taps-dies/10-x-1-metric-sp-plug

or a taper and plug set for £3.95 on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134100258609?hash=item1f38ff8f31:g:iWEAAOSw0StiapuS&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4MxpxOH67cqtP9YVZgNFhYPWb0ywTrvErlmSJbx%2Bct6j6FSUuVtbTWMESKNZUZYCF7QTYFEvgBPAhOel8H8rpQyM%2F11LrXFRg%2BI4r6nS%2BZ8heol2XM9NgRm8MGWqqVjkeim60uw%2B6hrGTE%2FZEDPrVmJm9jTjSEfESli7C%2Fkxo2DC6crYEDyRWmX8US041MrQ1vqxeQN%2BtPH7lQculXqoYaB%2BuT8%2F1tA3Ms%2B11K50R5Xc0c2QXGpX68Xq16D1yJAPSCSDpo61S3cUTzn6R6OAjcNksT0trFo%2BIP8UWlltvwFR%7Ctkp%3ABFBMgq-0xe5g

Regards

TerryD

Very sad new. Blogwich was outspoken and didn't take fools gladly, but he was helpful and respectful when treated properly. He took a realistic view of model engineering not concerned with the finest tolerances etc and I saw him mock those who bragged of being able to measure precisely to microns which simply isn't necessary in model engineering, especially steam engines. In John's world anything bettter than a gnat's nadger was good enough.

A decent, open and honest man who suffered poor health for years whose presence in the world will be sorely missed.

RIP John.

Hi Oldiron,

That was an interesting video which gave me some ideas, but unfortunately dear old Tubalcain didn't actually strip the box down it was mainly concerned with cleaning it up. But thanks for the link it was useful,

Regards

TerryD

Hi, I've not posted for some time, I've been out of circulation. I have a Boxford imperial gearbox, leadscrew and clamp nuts which have become damaged by fire and rust. It has been dry stored now for several years but I would like to refurbish it and pass it on to someone who has a model B or C Boxford and would appreciate a chance to upgrade their lathe.

However, I have not dismantled one of these before and would be grateful for advice fro anyone who may have so that I don't make any serious mistakes.

So does anyone know of any pitfalls?

Regards

TerryD

Hi Nick,

Looks good, keep us udated on progress, I love in seeing old, apparent junk come back to life again with some tlc,

Regards

TerryD

Hi Peter,

Thanks for that, I can't get there with Firefox but I tried the link in Microsoft edge and I can confirm that it is still downloadable and anyone with a small lathe, Myford, Boxford, Harrison etc should have a copy if they are to do any screwcutting.

TerryD

That video rought back some vivid memories I thought were lost. I lived in the Black Country as a child in the late 40s/early 50s and we were surrounded by steelworks and foundries large and small as well as drop forges. I remember my Dad and Uncle wearliy trudging home from the foundry after a 10 hour shift where they worked usually wearing old army greatcoats from their time in service in the 2nd WW, Dad washing in a white enamel bowl with a blue rim (no Bathroom).

There was no PPE worth mentioning in those days - I note that some of the guys in the video had what looked like hessian sacking tied around their legs for some sort of protection. I remember also the guys who were injured doing that work, including my Dad, some seriously, some not so bad. but there was little or no social security so work had to go on. I remember how bad it was when my Dad couldn't work for several weeks. My Uncle was a moulder making sand moulds so his only problem was the silicosis he eventually died from..

And I hear that those were the good old days. Perhaps they were for some.

TerryD

Edited By Terryd on 24/04/2020 16:06:36

Hi Dave and Ronald,

those are useful resources wghich I have addad to favourites, however I particularly want a copy of NthreadP because it had the facility to input the gears owned and the leadscrew pitch/tpi and made hth calculations based on one's won situation. I note that Howard's list ins particularly for the Myford lathe and needs more calculation if one has a different lathe and leadscrew - mine is a metric Boxford. NthreadP allows one to enter and save all pertinant information and add further information such as newly aquired gear wheels. It really is a brilliant little program, I hoe that it's not lost.

Thanks for your help,

TerryD

Hi,

https://groceries.morrisons.com/products/morrisons-really-good-puds-syrup-sponge-puddings-115885011

Now in plastic tub rather than a tin, and microwaveable not boiled with holes pierced in top. They are rather good and I've been a connossieur since the late 1950's. The best ones though were at my school which cooked proper meals on site.

TerryD - isolating and trying to keep safe.

Hi all,

It's several years since i posted here but I'm now active again after retirement and isolating due to CV19.

Some years ago I downloaded a small program, suppose it would now be called and 'app', which calculated gear trains for changewheels on lathes. You input leadscrew pitch and your list of changewheels and it would calculate sevearal alternative possible trains.

It's most useful feature is that it could calculate very close approximations to cut imperial threads on a metric lathe without a leadscew gearbox and visa versa, without using expensive conversion gears. I accessed it from Tony's Lathes.co.uk website and the link is still there but the original download site is no longer. I have searched and the 'app' appears to have disappeared altogether.

It was called NthreadP, and was a free download. My copy was lost in a hard drive failure some time ago and I'm hoping to find someone perhaps who has a copy of this very useful program. I would like to make it available again via my blog so I would be extremely grateful if somone could send a copy, perhaps via Dropbox or similar.

Best regards and keep safe,

TerryD

Hi all,

This is my first post for several years, it's nice to be back.

There is a building site in a French forest where a 12th century castle is bering built from scratch using techniques, methods and tools of the era. Most materials are processed and made from what is available locally.

There are several episodes on the extraction of iron using a primitive blast furnace which may be of interest. They are from the first series, episodes 6,7,and 8. The program is in French but with English subtitles. You may find it of interest.

I hope that you enjoy them - keep safe,

TerryD