Member postings for Ian S C

When I built an ALPHA type Stirling engine, I bored both cylinders at the same time, then I made the pistons and lapped them to the cylinders, I then divided the cylinders into two separated liners. In the end I had to lap the hot cylinder as it got a bit tight after 15 to 20 minutes running. The motor had water cooling but that didn't help much. It is now air cooled and will run as long as it has fuel. Note the ALPHA motor has equal size cylinders.

Ian S C

I would suggestyou go to the garden shop for the copper sulphate, it will be a lot cheaper than at the Chemist.

Ian S C

In our metal work class's at Tech in the early 1960s we were told that imperial mics would soon become G clamps. it never happened here.

Ian S C

I presume that the Victor is out of hours, so it can't deliver it's self. Wouldn't really be relevant here. We would like the old A-4 Skyhawks back again, or something similar, they were the last things we had with teeth, a step up from the B-12 Canberas, and Vampires. I think it might be a bit much of a pull for my E bike from were ever it arrived in NZ. I think the next Mosquito is going to UK, Duxford I think.

Ian S C

I still use the 65W Solon that dad bought before WW2 when he was doing radio repairs. I think it is all origional, tip and element. For larger work I have a 175W Weller. When I got the Weller the tip was badly eroded A new tip was going to be $NZ80, so I wen't and saw my metal supply man and bought a piece of 20 mm copper, I think it was 100 mm long. I have a pair of old copper soldering bits, about 2lb each, which each heat quickly on a gas ring.

Ian S C

Iain: Don't know about the old Avon, a group up in the North Island has just got an FB-5 Vampiire assembled from parts, fitted a Goblin, and lit up the kero, it will be a museum machine, able to taxi. Some of the crew working on it were ex RNZAF from the days when the Vampire was our main strike aircraft, so they knew a few of the tricks needed to get them together and with a bit of luck get them going.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 11/02/2020 09:10:18

Just a reminder, it's good idea to set up you profile. It doesn't need to be too much, but if we know where you are and what you know, it helps others if they think they can help. You don't have to ramble on as I did with mine.

Ian S C

Bob Charles NZ champion golfer played LH, he was RHed in normal life, but as a child the only clubs at home were his mothers LH ones, so he stayed with those. I found that when I took up wood turning about 40 years ago, being ambiiidextrous was quite useful.

Ian S C

Missed this bit, yes you could make the body of the tool from brass, steel is a bit more robust, and the tool will last for years, I'v got some spare flint wheels threaded on a saftey pin I'll never need them. Ian S C

The pin came from a bearing from the bearing cup in a universal joint, size about 3/32" dia.,x 0.09652", the bronze bearing, a bit of brazing rod. To make The fork, I drilled a hole vertically just short of the width of the wheel, then I cut the slot by hack saw. Turned the piece 90* and drilled the hole for the pin. The slot was opened with a file to take the width of the bush, about 0.010" greater than the wheel. The wheel should protrude about 1 mm past the end of the fork. It would be possible to make the body of the tool in one central, thickness of wheel plus clearance for the wheel, then two cheeks either screwed or riveted. The holes for the pin should be lightly centre punched around the edge so the pin won't fall out. The idea was taken fromStan Bray's Introducing The LATHE. It's getting past my bed time, so good night from me. Ian S C

My hoist could be adapted to work on a short boom. My set up has a rail made by welding two lengths of angle iron back to back. My hoist is mainly used to lift the 8" 3 and 4 jaw chucks for my lathe, I don't think I would try lifting the 6'" 4 jaw now. The hoist is powered by an old garage door opener motor (36v), but run on the 18v power supply that I use for the power traverse on the vertical milling machine.

Ian S C

A knurring tool only takes a few minutes to make from a bit of scrap steel, a flint wheel from a Bic lighter, and a roller from a small roller bearing. first the wheel needs to be fitted with a bronze/brass bush or it will do it's best to cut the pin. A forked end in the steel body of the tool, with a transverse hole to take the pin. In use use plenty of oil down the sides of the wheel. This tool will knurl most steels normally used, I'v used it on 4140, it does a good job on aluminium and brass. Must get a photo with better contrast.

Ian S C

It took me 3 goes to get it right, don't use aluminium displacers unless you want to see a melt down, also less efficient than stainless steel, or mild steel (it corrodes). the end of the stainless tube is atached by TIG welding, try and keep to about 0,010" or a little more, 0.007 is possible, but getting difficult.

I have used copper gaskets, these should be annealed, for sealing, but tend to use metal to metal joints see the hot cap photo among the groupe of batter cases, it is bolted to the motor with 4 1/8 x 40 Whitworth bolts. 

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 30/01/2020 12:15:04

Sept, Oct last year I was forgetting things, But coming up to mid Oct, my sister was visiting, she decided that I needed to see my GP, he sent me off for an MRI scan, then off to the neurosurgical ward where I was informed that surgury was required as i seemed to have a tumor in my top 2", that done they removed most of quite a large cancer, I,v had radiotherapy, and continuing with Chemotherapy. People are commenting on how much better I look. This could have been mistaken by some as a form of Dementia, but I was told that if I had waited 2 weeks, I would not have left hospital walking, it would have been feet first.

Ian S C

There is a new (to me) machinery retailer in Christchurch NZ, that I must explore. I'm using the low ratio so it has 4 belts.

Ian S C

Early in it's life I brokethe shear pins on the lead screw of my Tywanese lathe (there are two in tandem). I replaced them with bits of 1/8" brazing rod, about 25 years ago.

Ian S C

Hi Clive, I intend to stay on the forum a while yet, and maybe get some useful work one yet. Got an open crank 4 stroke motor to finish, just got to design and build the ignition. The coil will be under the base. The pulley beside the flywheel is for a fan besided he cylinder

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 26/01/2020 10:33:33

Edited By Ian S C on 26/01/2020 10:34:30

I got an Emco Unimat SL early last year, nice wee lathe , It came with attachments including the jig saw, no blades, I looked at fret saw blades, too thin, then I looked at coping saw too wide, so I took one and ground quite a bit off the back of the blade until it seemed to fit, it works OK. It seems OK even though there is nothing supporting the top end of the blade. If the going gets tough rub the blade with a bit of candle wax, You could grind down a junour hacksaw blade. Just got to find something to use as belts for the thing, I,m using 5 mm heat join belt.

Ian S C

I m,ade 150 pair of calipers for the Christchurch Indoor Bowls Ass, I put a washer made of shim brass (about .010" Between the legs, and held them together with a brass rivit. Seems to work OK, just a light tap on the rivit if it gets a bit loose. I have never looked at my Moore & Wright gear, but I would go with Clive, a hard plastic.

Ian S C

Hi guys, Been out of action since October, I had to get a new password, I had to get back on line. Hope you are all well. I'v not gotten back to the workshop, but my thoughts have been, what will become of the workshop. Summer is here temp up around 32.7*C, and dry as a crisp. I'm a month out of hospital, so I may pick up again.

Ian S C