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Which slideway oil is best?

Here is a bag full of cats type of topic. Please wade in with your views

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Terryd31/12/2010 14:25:23
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1946 forum posts
179 photos
Hi Wallace,
 
You mentioned bike chains and that reminds me that there are modern PTFE lubricants which won't allow dirt and grit to stick on exposed gears and chains.  Would not such dry lubricants work on slideways?
 
Terry
Jon31/12/2010 19:35:19
1001 forum posts
49 photos
For the one lathe i have Harrison highly recommends a 68 hydraulic fluid for almost everything inc the 3 gearboxes and slides.
http://www.smithandallan.com/prodpage.aspx?id=2462
Now that works out way cheaper than any respectable car oil.
 
Lifted from their bay site.
• Excellent oxidation stability and resistance to ageing. • Good viscosity-temperature behaviour. • Good EP properties and thus protection against wear. • Excellent corrosion protection. • Good air separation properties and low foaming. • Good demulsifying properties. • Favourable behaviour with sealing materials
 
So slideways wise should be ok for coolant, worth a look at.
WALLACE02/01/2011 21:23:09
304 forum posts
17 photos
Hi Terry - that's an idea -I use the GT stuff on my bike and it certainly doesn't attract dirst like the aforementioned  slideway lubricant did.
 
But it's not cheap and I'm dead mean !
 
W.  
Eddie03/01/2011 08:10:23
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56 forum posts
Hi All
I am Using Chainsaw chain and bar oil.
it is designed not to fly of at highspeed and has good lubricating properties, if it does not fly ot at high speed it will not fall of at slow speed.
Simple way to protect the way by keeping them clean during the turning process;
cover the ways with kitchen paper towels, also easy cleaning later. Take the paper towel and all swarf and scraps stick to paper, coolant runoff into driptray.
Eddie
Doddy11/01/2011 09:19:04
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72 forum posts
103 photos
I use "clingfilm" the stuff she wraps her lunch up in! to keep beds and slides clean. Its quick and easy to clean up and stays in place. Great for keeping the muck out when milling with a 3 jaw on the rotary table Talking of which - do you lubricate or not your lathe chuck?
KWIL11/01/2011 09:24:26
3681 forum posts
70 photos
Yes, after cleaning out any swarf, use on the slots and scroll.  Pratt Burnerd recommend "their" lubricant which is a klingy moly grease.  It works OK
Peter G. Shaw27/01/2011 19:36:42
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1531 forum posts
44 photos
Hi,
 
Just in case anyone hasn't received a letter...
 
This morning I received a letter from Halletts Oils Ltd to the effect that they have been acquired by Caldo Oils Ltd of St. Helens.
 
It seems that Caldo will be continuing the Hallett operation, including the name and 'phone numbers, but after the transition period, the personnel will change.
 
Regards,
 
Peter G. Shaw
Gordon A27/01/2011 21:02:50
157 forum posts
4 photos
Hi Peter,
 
A little bit of extra information on Hallett Oils.
 
Richard Hallett is retiring and has passed the business on to Caldo Oils; although he will remain in a consultative role for a few months to assist the transfer.
 
Hopefully the products and prices will remain.!
 
Regards,
Gordon A.
Martin W28/01/2011 00:53:53
940 forum posts
30 photos
Hi
 
I use Mobil Vactra No2 on my Chester lathe and it seems to work very well. Bought mine from ebay in 250 ml bottles at a very reasonable price. The top and cross slide lead screws are liberally coated with Castrol MS grease. Everything seems smooth and there is never any sign of the dreaded iron oxide forming even in an unheated workshop. The oil seems to form a stable coating that doesn't dry out or go patchy, well satisfied with the results
 
Cheers
 
Martin
Dave Tointon10/02/2011 10:34:57
49 forum posts
Having done a bit of research on this subject I eventually came up with Hydraulic oil used in trucks and tractors and all hydraulic systems. There's Shell Tellus or Castrol Hyspin, readily available in a couple of different grades, in Australia anyway. I reckon the thicker the better. If it is good for hydraulic pumps etc with their close tolerances, it's got to be god foe our lathe and milling machine slides. Works for me anyway
Regards
Dave Tointon
 
Scrim19/02/2011 01:10:00
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19 forum posts
I looked into slideway oils myself recently as I just bought my first lathe (Super C3). First I bought some Vactra No.2 but was surprised by the very strong sulphurous smell when I sniffed the can. As I have my lathe indoors I didn't want it stinking the house out. I've since discovered that the smell only seems to accumulate significantly in a sealed can as I left a dish of it out for a few days and I couldn't smell it at all after the first day. Still, I was concerned it might result in a subtle unpleasant smell only visitors would notice, so I decided this was another beginners expense I'd have to take on the nose and tried the next suitable oil I came across called Slideway 68 from Chronos. It's very innofensive smell wise. To me it smells and looks very much like modern car engine oil, but it seems to work so I've stuck with it. Talking of sticking, that's what slideway oils are supposed to avoid. If you notice a 'stick and slip' effect when moving slideways, perhaps you should try one of the recommended oils. If engine oil doesn't 'stick and slip' then I'd guess it's probably as good as the specialist stuff. Any ideas on what to do with a litre of smelly Vactra No.2?
mgj19/02/2011 09:02:08
1017 forum posts
14 photos
I ather agree, so the heavy grades of oil are not suitable.
 
 
I haven't used a motor oil because of the additives. Not that there is much wrong with the addititves for our purposes - its just that we don't need detergents or acidity modifiers, nor the temperature stabilisers. They are pretty expensive without improving lubricating performance (for our purpose).So I've used SAE30 horticultural oil - which is engine oil without the additives(for lawnmower engines), and much cheaper too. Its designed to cling to a surface at the molecular level, which it needs to do, but you don't get stiction.
 
Of course you don't actually want a film technically- because that allows unwanted movement. Life isn't perfect though, so you want as thin a film as you can get away with without metal to metal contact.
 
I was given and am now sold on Rocol slideway lubricant - spray on. Stays like hell on a surface, (it uses an electrolytic bond I'm told), which is exactly what is needed, and there was a noticeable improvement in "slideability". So I use that on all slides, and the SAE30 for all the bearings and things that need "injection" - in cluding the occasional squirt into thesaddle/slideway lubricators to clear out muck - if any.
 

KWIL19/02/2011 11:03:57
3681 forum posts
70 photos
Rocol spray on is the same as Rocol X5 Slideway Oil only it is applied by aerosol. Good stuff. I prefer the X5 approach because it can be used in the pressure oiling of the ways on the mill as well.
mgj19/02/2011 11:55:28
1017 forum posts
14 photos
Thanks for that KWIL. I'll be sure to get some next time I go to the tool people.
 
I hadn't gone into this lubricant business much, on the basis that oil was oil and any was good enough. Which is probably true enough, but there is no doubt that at least one of these purpose made goops is better.
Michael Wilde19/02/2011 19:07:04
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25 forum posts
16 photos
+1 For magna BD68, awesome stuff. Quite strong smelling though...
"Bill Hancox"04/03/2011 03:34:02
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257 forum posts
77 photos
Wow Guys! This topic thoroughly stirred the oil pot. On my Myford Speed 10 I use Hydraulic Jack Oil in the three oil nipples. The headstock tapered bearings get the same high temperature moly grease that I use on my utility trailer wheel bearings, lovingly applied with an antique Triumph motorcycle grease pump (I love using old stuff that still works). I also use the moly wheel bearing grease on all the gears (quiet). All other lube points, including the ways, the leadscrew etc are treated with 90 weight Hypoid gear oil, the same lube that I use in the rear differential of my light trucks and my Evinrude outboard motor.
I mustn't forget that I also lube the threads and moving parts on the follow rest, fixed (steady) rest and milling attachments with the hypoid.
Arte et Marte
korby11/03/2011 22:22:27
37 forum posts
2 photos
Many years ago my tight brother in law did an oil change on his Cortina using a can of SHELL DROMUS he found in my garage. He only got about 50 miles up the road when his engine blew.I never did tell him the oil was cutting oil. Ho Hum.
 
Hypoid additives will attack brass etc do not use.
HasBean13/03/2011 11:20:59
141 forum posts
32 photos
Now it's my turn to run out of slideway oil and I'm finding it very difficult to get. In the first instance it is not available locally so I have no choice but to trawl the internet for suppliers.
The first supplier was happy to send what I needed (5 ltrs of slideway oil and 5 ltrs of neat cutting fluid) but at nearly £60 it was stretching available funds, especially when they informed me that they had forgotten the postage so that would be another £42 please!!!!!. At that stage I politely declined to purchase. I contacted two other suppliers who advertise but never even received a reply (a simple 'sorry we can't help' would've been nice).
I am now awaiting replies from two others, the decision resting on whether their couriers are happy to send 'across the water'.
I wait with baited breath.
 
Paul
KWIL13/03/2011 12:33:25
3681 forum posts
70 photos
Try Buck & Hickman, usual disclaimer.
Freddybear13/03/2011 14:16:55
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27 forum posts
54 photos
 
Available in 1 litre or 5 litre cans.
 
The 5 litre can is not bad value if a few of your local mates do it as a group buy.
 
Anyone know a good source for 15 grade oil ( recommended by myford) for use in spindle bearings ( known as nuray 15)
 
Also H32 nutto.
 
Any experts out there that can give any more info.
 
PS. I scrounged a cup full of Mobil vactra to get me by. Its great stuff.
( but use disposable gloves when handling it )

 

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