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Member postings for Michael Wilde

Here is a list of all the postings Michael Wilde has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: Popcorn Engine, dimension query for Stew
04/03/2012 03:46:21
I'm thinking about building this engine as my 1st attempt at model engineering. I've been machining metal since 2002 when I started my apprenticeship but I'm more used to making big bits for powerstations than small components. I've bought the latest ME and seen part 3 of this build and its really taken my fancy. Could anyone tell me if the two previous articles are in the last 2 magazines so I can order back issues?

Thanks

Mike
Thread: Mandrel Handle
02/03/2012 01:03:56
I'm almost at a point where I'm ready to make a mandrel handle for my Ml7. I'm just finishing a saddle stop and knurling tool to Harold Halls design. I'm also looking at the lathe spindle backstop that HH had published in mew a while back and wondering if a removable handle could be incorporated into the design. (Two tools in one)

Edited By Michael Wilde on 02/03/2012 01:36:33

Thread: Easy Myford Oil Pump Seal
02/03/2011 09:54:13
Sounds good, got any pics?
Thread: New or Second Hand Lathe?
20/02/2011 15:52:37
I faced this issue a couple of years ago. I ended up buying a Chester db10gvs brand new. This lathe was big enough, 10" diameter swing, to cope with the majority of jobs you might want to do. The problem I found was, there wasn't much to it! it looked impressive and shiny but on inspection it was very thin in areas that need to be as chunky as possible (the bed!) also, it came with everything you need, 3 and 4 jaw chucks and both fixed and travelling steadies. I found the steadies to be quite poor quality and the method of fixing/changing the chucks means a 10 minute fiddly spannering job. It was good that it had variable speed controlled by a knob rather than changing belts and the motor was powerful enough to cope with heavy cuts (but the bed/spindle wasn't). All in all, for a brand new lathe, and for the price it was pretty good. I ended up selling it and buying a Myford, which I love. I'm a machinist by trade and these little lathes are right up there with functionality for size. Agreed the quality comes at a price but I think its worth it. You just have to save up longer for accessories!
Thread: Which slideway oil is best?
19/02/2011 19:07:04
+1 For magna BD68, awesome stuff. Quite strong smelling though...
Thread: Slideway guard on warco vmc milling machine
18/02/2011 15:40:47
Hi Roger, that looks like a good solution to an annoying problem. I might try making something up following your example. Might have to cut the wifes knee high leather boots up........ I'm sure she'll not mind!


I'm also toying with an idea of using one of the child car roller blinds and having it continuously rolling itself up when the table is moved towards the column.
16/02/2011 10:22:00
I think I've looked at theirs a while ago and their widest isn't quite wide enough. That's the kind of thing id like though. Or maybe a homemade alternative? I think I read that Harold Hall made one by folding cardboard and covering in varnish!?
16/02/2011 09:31:45
I've got a warco vmc miller and the method of protecting the vertical column and the Y slideways is a length of rubber sheet. This does an ok job when the knee is in the low to middle area of the vertical slide but as the table is raised it all gathers up and restricts table movement. The problem gets worse when you want to move the table back as the rubber either gets squashed or has to hang over the table onto your job.

Does anyone know where I could get a concertina guard wide enough or has anyone made something that would do a better job than the original?

Cheers

Mike
Thread: Sheared Drawbar
16/02/2011 09:01:46
When I'm 'stud busting' at work I go in with a drill (carefully) just below tapping size. This then usually breaks through on one side to expose the threads. I then use a small chisel or scriber to start the thread unwinding. You can then get some needle nose pliers on the loose end and peel the rest of the thread away by turning the pliers anti-clockwise. This is best done on a milling machine (I use a kearns horizontal borer) so you can get as accurate to the centre of the thread as possible. When done right the offending stud comes out in the form of a helicoil insert. Lots of penetrating oil works wonders too, especially on plant that's been in service for 20 years and has got lots of steam 'scale' all over.

Edited By Michael Wilde on 16/02/2011 09:06:05

Thread: What size chuck key?
09/02/2011 22:42:26
I've just received a Bernard 4 jaw chuck that I bought on ebay, minus a chuck key. Its the '34m' 6" model that has the words "made especially for the Myford Ml7 lathe."

I've used a piece of 1/4" square bar to remove the jaws and give it a good clean, polish and lube. The square bar was quite a sloppy fit in the square hole and, on measuring it, found it to be 0.280".

This works out at 9/32", is this the right size as it seems a bit of an 'odd-ball' size? or is the sloppy fit on the 1/4" bar right?

If anybody has this same chuck and wouldn't mind giving their chuck key a quick measure I'd greatly appreciate it!

I'm just trying to see if its worth buying one on ebay (1/4") or making an 'odd-ball' size. Also, what to make it from? I can get off-cuts of quite tuff stuff from work (we call it durehete, used a lot in the power generation industry).

Thanks in advance

Mike

Edited By Michael Wilde on 09/02/2011 23:00:20

Thread: Warco milling machines
15/01/2011 18:31:17
I've just bought a vmc from warco. I find the spindle to table height fine, depends what your doing with it I suppose.
Thread: Marking out fluid
04/05/2010 19:44:56
Ye I use permanent marker, works a treat!
Thread: Myford ml7 clutch
02/05/2010 09:52:33
Hi, would it be possible to get a copy of these plans? Many thanks Mike
Thread: How to sharpen centre drills?
27/04/2010 22:56:59
I used to have the same problem when centre drilling/drilling. I thought it might have been the tailstock out of align but when checked was not so. I gripped a rod in the drill chuck, gripped the other end in the 4 jaw chuck, put a clock on the morse taper of the drill chuck and rotated the lathe spindle by hand. An error of about 3 to 4 thou (0.075mm to 0.1mm) was found. The drill chuck and morse taper was a cheap set-up, I ordered a new chuck and MT and the problem was solved!
24/04/2010 23:42:37
Hi, just been googling centre drill geometry. I found this .PDF wich is quite useful. http://www.shis.com.sg/product/100.pdf with reference to my above post about the pilot angle being 60 degrees: it's not! It's 120 degrees. Should make it a bit easier to set in drill grinding attachment. If a length of square material was drilled/reamed as accurately as possible on one face to accept the centre drill body, then a grub screw fitted perpendicular to this to clamp the centre drill. It would be possible to set this up on the drill grinding attachment with the relevant projection and the pilot flutes in a vertical plane. The square material would sit nicely into the 'V' of the attachment and would allow it to be turned exactly 180 to grind the second flute to the same setting as the first. I don't know if this would work in practice, it's just a thought. There's probably many other methods but it's all I can think of right now. Let me know how it's going if you attempt this! Cheers, Mike
24/04/2010 23:12:22
Hi, I also have this book and I'm currently making the grinding rest described within. I'm not sure about sharpening centre drills, maybe if you had one of the common swing type drill grinding attachments that are also described in Harolds book you could rig it up to hold a centre drill? Remember the projection from the front of the attachment is specific to the diameter of drill being sharpened so this would be the pilot diameter of the centre drill. I'm pretty sure the angle of the pilot tip of a centre drill is 60 degrees aswell as the conical, centre forming section, but I could be wrong... Also, you can't shorten the pilot section too much as the length is needed as clearance for the tip of your tailstock centre once an impression has been made with the centre drill. I broke a centre drill today (whilst making the fence for the grinding rest). The pilot of the centre was well bedded in to the material so I marked out for the hole on the opposite side, centre popped, centre drilled and then very gently drilled until the drill felt as though it wasn't cutting. I placed the material in the bench vice and centre punched the bottom of this blind hole. This punched the broken section of centre drill out the other side! Beats trying to 'chisel' it out with old scribers! Sometimes trying a magnet is useful aswell if it's not stuck in too tight.
Thread: Recommend oil can for oiler ports (on lathe)
23/04/2010 08:46:14
Nice one! Turns out the Myford uses the same oils as the Matauura cnc milling machines at work! I'll look into the grease nipples and gun also I think. Thanks for the advice!
22/04/2010 23:37:15
Hi, I also use magna BD68 on my machine slides. Is hyspin 32 ok to use on my ML7 spindle bearings or am I better off sticking with nutto oil? Also, I've just bought my 1st myford, what kind of rate should the oilers on my ML7 be dropping oil to the bearings? Obviously speed dependant?
Thread: RDG Myford Quick Change Tool Post
22/04/2010 00:16:42
Well I got my RGD version today, I took it to work for something to do while my machine was doing it's roughing cycle (7 hrs!). I say something to do because every component needed de-burring, I also stripped the main block, cleaned it up, removed a bit of gritty stuff and (off?) grease from the plunger that's actuated by the 'cams'. Everything was then de-burred, greased up the internals and built back up. The box was a bit smashed up as received, but it came with adequate packing for this to NOT occur! (shredded paper inside the wooden toolpost box and the box wrapped thoroughly in cardboard). Obviously been shipped from the east and been aloud to bang around. Some of the holders and the block were bruised here and there but nothing a diamond Lapp couldn't sort out. The components wern't seriously smashed up, nothing to warrant sending the toolpost back anyway. Just a little annoying. You get what you pay for I suppose. As far as functionality goes, it's early days yet but all the holders seem to locate ok, nice and solid. I've managed to steal an hour in the garage this evening, fitted the toolpost and machined some acrylic for some new oilers (see my photos). All seems ok so far. I think if I buy more holders it'll be the Myford items, especially the "Piddington?" holders. Then eventually I'll buy a Myford main block and heypresto! A Myford quick change tool post set up.
20/04/2010 00:08:27
I too am a great believer of HSS over carbide in the home workshop. It's cheaper and easier to sharpen (no special 'green grit' wheels etc). I've just made a mini boring bar from a broken 5mm hss drill following Harold Halls' advice.
 
Incidentally,  the drill was marked 'HSSE'. What does the 'E' stand for?
 
 I've got a set of brazed carbide tools that have had very little use, maybe just the 45 degree for chamfering most commonly. I've a sandvick tipped tool for the odd occasion when some serious ploughing is needed or the material's tough.
 
I like the quick change tool holder for the ease of tool height setting. I've made a lathe centre height post to David Clarks' design in MEW and use this for setting tools to height. 
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