Member postings for Martin W

Dirt on the face of the jaws or on the part being measured would be my first suspicion. I always try to remember to wipe the jaw faces and close to check true zero before making most measurements, especially critical ones. Another cause could be that you inadvertently ZEROED the display when using the callipers or ZEROED them with some contamination between the faces. It's easy to, don't ask how I know.

HTH

Martin

PS

I don't have expensive callipers so all mine are relatively low priced units. If critical then final measurements are made using a micrometer.

Edited By Martin W on 13/08/2023 00:43:07

Michael

Don't know if this is of any use regarding your wall wart

Michael

How nice, it's good to know somebody somewhere loves you

Martin

There is a Youtube entry regarding the EEP error message on a VFD unit here, run in about 35 seconds to see documentation for the EEP fault condition.

Martin

I have used a cold bluing paste which seems to be quite resistant to abrasion and that is Birchwood Casey Perma Blue which can readily obtained from the this site. The depth of colour can be controlled by the length of time that the paste is left on the metal, this can be a bit variable so requires a bit of experimentation to get a even depth of colour

Martin

A quick search of Ebay has turned up, Quick Release Actuator Retaining Clip Pin with Loop, which are not quite the same but work on the same principle and should be more robust. See ebay page here.

May well be others but these turned within 2 or 3 mins of looking.

Cheers

Martin

Roger

Welcome aboard, you will find no shortage of people willing to advise and help you out. Most of the advice will be sound but there are often many ways to achive a solution so the advice is likely to vary between contributors, as they say 'There's more than one way to skin a cat'.

That said have fun and keep those youngsters under control, if that is at all possible.

Cheers

Martin

Edited By Martin W on 08/03/2023 11:24:33

I have a couple of these LED modules and what has surprised me is the amount of heat that is radiated forward by the LED array. Initially I noticed the radiation when I used my hand as a shield from the light. While not in any way or form a definitive measurement within 5 - 10 seconds a piece of black dense foam material held about 1cm in front the LED module began to melt and smoke but the back panel on the module had barely begun to warm. I wonder what the ratio of radiated heat and conducted heat is and how much will this affect the size of any heat sink required. Having seen what happened to the foam it would be advisable to check that there nothing close to a working module that could be melted or catch fire.

Martin

Perhaps their understanding of the words are:

Pot; - Referring to shape of the base material.

Potted: - Being contained within an enclosure or part enclosure.

This seems logical to me but still could cause confusion if read in isolation

Martin

Michael

I don't think that this magnet is a potted variety. The magnetic material has been formed with a stepped rim to allow it to make a more effective contact with uneven surfaces and give clearance should the fixing screw head be slightly proud of the countersunk hole. If so then the description given by Eclipse is correct in so much that it just a rare earth magnet with zinc plating for protection.

It will be interesting to see what eventually you receive. I too have ordered rare earth magnets and they were packed wrapped in layers of bubble wrap in large boxes. If sent in thin wall packing I have visions of delivery company staff desperately trying to peel the package from machinery or the side of delivery vehicles, and god forbid that two such packages addressed to different recipients ever became attached to each other!

Martin

Dave

I didn't know that Texas Instruments had made calculators using reverse polish notation. I have a couple of old HP calculators that use this, a HP 41C with a memory module and an HP 41CV with a card reader attachment. I can still remember an HP rep turning up at the office with one of their ealy basic calculators, LED display, quoting a price of something like £500. That was back in the early 70s, as they say 'Nostalgia is a thing of the past.

Martin

The best cleaner I have found for the removal of this gunge is IPA, isopropyl alcohol which is similar in ways to meths. Put some on a cloth/paper towel and just wipe and the greasy gunge just wipe away. Depending on the amount of deposit it may need a second wipe over. Minimum effort for great results and it is safe to use on most painted surfaces and plastics even on the wooden cabinets which have polished/varnished finish.

Another use is on IC engines that have been stored and have become gummed up, just squirt some IPA into crankcase and cylinder leave for a couple of days and the engine can be turned over with no need to strain anything.

HTH

Martin

ps

The lighter brown staining on glass oven doors can be removed using ipa provided they havn't become burnt on.

Edited By Martin W on 14/10/2022 16:49:19

There are 'Dishwasher Safe' cyanoacrylate super glues available, see here, but there may be some limitations as to the materials being glued. The list of suitable substrates seem to be limited to glass, metal and ceramics which are all non porous which limits the exposure to moisture of the adhesive to the edge of the seam.

Martin

John

One lives and learns, I did not know until reading the the pages you linked to that epoxy resins could be thinned using IPA.

Thanks for that.

Martin

Like Peter I have used methylated spirit to clean epoxy resin from tools before it sets, currently I tend to use IPA, not the beer, isopropyl alcohol as I have a couple of litres to hand.

Cheers

Martin

I have in the past used acetone to remove epoxy resins from objects, see this web page.

Hope this helps.

Martin

What an achievement even to get it to this stage!! With all the time and design you have put into this project plus a little bit of luck and a following wind any adjustments needed to get the engine running will hopefully be minor. I have thoroughly enjoyed you postings here and look forward to seeing you post a video of it running with a nice chug - chug - chug sound of it ticking over. Hope it all goes according to plan.

Martin W

Have you checked the die for any rubbish that has jammed in the threads which could reduce the outer diameter. Check you measuring instrument to ensure that this is giving the right dimension and the zero point hasn't moved. Try reducing the diameter to say 4.8mm and try again if OK then die could be trying to remove too much material and partially stripping the thread it has cut and not advancing. Had this happen once when trying to thread some small diameter steel rod that was dead to size.

Martin

Absolutely brilliant and like DiogenesII I look forward to your postings on this EPIC project. It will be great to see the final build and the engine running, hopefully, at a slow tick over. What are you going to do after this build is finished? Another similar build or take a well earned break and reflect on this project's highs and lows and how problems were solved. I wish I had the skills and dedication to even contemplate undertaking something much less demanding.

Martin

Dave W

That sounds very similar to a 'Wet Start' which is quite impressive to see from the ground but probably somewhat disturbing for any passengers that witness it from their seats in the aircraft. I saw a particular a spectacular one when a Viking or Vanguard had difficulty starting one engine. When it eventually caught there was a sheet of flame, which for a couple of seconds or so, that extended from the engine to beyond the tail.