gold plating brass clock frames

I see that a few exhibition clocks now have gold plated frames. Any thoughts on whare to go for this service in the UK and how much it might cost. David

I to would like an answer to this question, although I have an idea it may be way too expensive to do all the bits of my fibre optic clock.

Cheers Derek

Assuming a plating thickness of 15 millionths and the price of gold at $1300/oz., I just calculated that to plate both sides of a 6" square of brass sheet would cost around $15 for the gold. (I'm sure someone will check me). To actually have it done you could probably safely double or even quadruple that. Still not too bad if gold plating lights your candle.

Actually, if it's decorative only, you could probably go down a way on the thickness (say 10 millionths or even lower) and save a bit but I doubt the cost of the gold is the most significant part of the overall cost.

I did a bit of research on plating some time ago, things changed before there was any chance to carry on.

Here is a link to some plating companies, a search would find lots more as well.

**LINK**

If you want to read up on plating for yourself, there is a handy little book in the Workshop Practice series .

**LINK**

Edited By V8Eng on 17/11/2013 19:48:44

I think I gained the following information from an enquiry I made of RiteTime Publishing a good while ago, the information is certainly dated and, therefore, needs checking. I don't seem to be able to find a url for them:

GSR Electroplating,

4a Kingsmead,

Felpham,

Bognor Regis,

PO22 7BE.

T: 01243 826888

Thanks for the link V8Eng. Quite some time ago, my wife bought me a small gold plating kit which I have yet to try. I don't want to plate the clock for "bling" reasons but rather to stop the brass from tarnishing. However I read somewhere that plating strait onto the brass would result in the gold eventually being "absorbed" and so taking me back to square one. I understand that for the job to be a success it needs to be nickel plated first, thus adding to the cost and no doubt messing up quite a few dimensions. Anyone have any other treatments that would stop tarnishing ?

Cheers Derek.

Sri I can't help but I was about to post a similar question. I have a sports trophy, a Curling Kettle, which was electroplated but it's now past it's best. Does anyone know of a company who do EPNS at an economic rate? tia

I am sure that you need an 'Undercoat' plating for the gold to attach to. I cleaned up an old brass theodolite to the base metal and it was gold plated but it was first nickel plated.

If your clock plates are nicely grained then plating them will destroy that finish. Some years back I researched a varnish coating that was called 'Dragons Blood'. Don't laugh its true. Its the very nice gold coloured finish you see on old microscopes and other old scientific instruments. basically its a 'Hot' varnish method where the items are heated then quickly coated with the varnish which has a colourant in it, this being a red dye.

I was unable to locate a source and the composition seemed to be a trade secret. One I did find was called 'Frigilene' and could be brushed or sprayed on.

All the old instrument makers are long gone so all the trade secrets have gone with them and we are now left with the modern equivalents.

Clive

David,

Try GSR Electroplating ...

[email protected]

... They are advertising in the November issue of the Horological Journal.

MichaelG.

i dont really understand this post. clock plates are supposed to be brass coloured. if you have a look in Brighton Museum you can see Dr J Bradbury Winter's superb model of COMO built at the turn of the last century. the brass hasnt tarnished and is as gleaming as when first fitted to the loco. i expect the clocks he made to be the same. a very good surface finish helps. i use fine diamantine powder mixed with a bit of light oil. it keeps all sorts of surfaces from steel to brass in shiny immaculate condition.

cheers,

julian

Might want to check what chemicals are involved in that kit - some of them can be a bit nasty. Years ago when we used hand plating gold kits for touch-up in the space business they used some cyanide. Hopefully they've developed a kit that's a bit more friendly by this time but worth checking.

I use this hand plating gold kit **LINK** , sorry do not know a English supplier. It leaves a very thin layer but works fine, would love to have a similar method for rose gold. Niko.

Edited By speelwerk on 18/11/2013 01:19:17

Clear lacquer, applied with a fine cotton swab is the traditional finish or try Carnuba wax some people swear by it. Plug the pivot holes first with pegwood - you don't want anything in there.

Russell.

Have you considered gilding with gold leaf?

There are essentially two methods: using gold size or water gilding. Gold size is used for illuminating manuscripts, for example, and is not really suitable for surfaces. Water gilding is used for surfaces and things like picture frames. It used to be used a lot for the lettering of barbershop windows - where the lettering was reflective like a mirror.

I reckon water gilding a clock face would work very well - it is surprisingly tenacious. I used it on the back of a large gemstone and found it very difficult to remove some small bits that wrapped around the edges of the stone.

Google for Water Gilding - on glass.

Thanks for the wax idea Russell. I see Axminster sell the stuff in flake form, so how would one go about applying it to the polished brass ? Melt it perhaps and apply with a soft cloth ? and boy o boy have I got some holes to plug. See my thread "fibre optic clock" ( sorry but I don't know how to include a link )

Cheers Derek.

Hi Clive,

I saw recipe for Dragon's Blood some time ago. It's shellac with a red resin dissolved in it.

A vague recollection that the other resin is that of Dracaena (what else?) appears to be correct.

Only one really useful site I can find:

" Dragon's Blood

Included here are various deep red materials of a resinous nature. Sumatra dragon’s blood is from Daemonorops draco, a climbing rattan palm of Eastern Asia. The dark reddish-brown resin forms as small granules on scaly fruits. It is used mainly in the manufacture of red spirit varnishes for metals and in making zinc line engravings. During the 18th Century Italian violinmakers used dragon’s blood in their varnishes. Socotra dragon's blood is a resin that exudes from the stem of Dracaena cinnabari of Western Asia. It has been also used for varnishes, dyes and stains. Dragon’s blood is sometimes secured from tropical American species of Dracaena and other Asiatic species of Daemonorops."

Neil

I would try mixing it to a paste with white spirit and try it on some scrap brass first.

Alternatively you can get "Clockshine" which is a carnuba wax based polish from Meadows and Passemore.

Russell.

Thanks once again Russell, "clockshine" looks to be a better idea than the Axminster flakes, and at just over half the price it's no contest.

Cheers Derek

Anyone thought about building a sputtering system or vacuum deposition. Maybe someone has better knowledge than me but it should be do-able.

Martin