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Making a Tool Holder for CCMT 06 tips?

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Peter Bell17/01/2012 19:17:20
399 forum posts
167 photos

Just changing a tip to do a different job and thought "wouldnt it be nice if I had more holders" and realised I dont have because of the cost.
 
In this age of cnc machining etc has anyone any hints or tips or advice on machining a Myford size holder for CCMT 06 tips---or I am just being mean and should go out and buy some!
 
Thanks Peter
David Clark 117/01/2012 19:24:10
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3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles
Hi There
I have made them on CNC mills in the past.
As long as you have the geometry of the tip, you should be able to make them.
regards David
JasonB17/01/2012 20:07:25
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25215 forum posts
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I've done it a coupel of times to mount teh tips onto the ends of stout bars and used them when I wanted a rigid boring bar.
 
You just need to put a small clearance hole at the internal corner, mill the two faces with a small cutter and then drill the mounting hole. Easy enough on a manual machine though a DRO helps
 
J

Edited By JasonB on 17/01/2012 20:08:00

John Haine17/01/2012 22:12:11
5563 forum posts
322 photos
As noted above, very easy to make. One tip for drilling the screw hole - after milling the seat, glue the tip in place with a dab of superglue to hold it while you spot through. A bit of heat to release the glue, then drill out and tap for the screw. This way you can get a very snug fit. Some articles have recommended chamfering the sides of the tool recess to match the tool - pointless. I have made a couple of turning tools and several boring bars up to 3/4 diameter. Mount with an MS block which attaches to the top of the topslide with a single nutin place of the normal toolholder, then drill thru from the headstock to get the bore exactly on centre height.
Tel17/01/2012 23:02:46
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157 forum posts
28 photos
There's some good info here
Ian S C18/01/2012 01:24:27
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7468 forum posts
230 photos
I have 16 mm triangle tips without holes, use then in the face cutter in the mill. When they'v been used there, I resharpen , and use in the lathe. I made the holder by cutting a triangular seat in the end of a steel bar (from the junk box), beside the seat is a hole with a 3/16UNF thread, a little bridge is bolted to this, holding the insert. I'v got a few other tips that would normally be brazed to the holder, that are held in the same way. Ian S C
Andrew Johnston18/01/2012 08:59:35
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7061 forum posts
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Posted by John Haine on 17/01/2012 22:12:11:
 
...... Some articles have recommended chamfering the sides of the tool recess to match the tool - pointless.
 
Why is it pointless? - Andrew
Douglas Johnston18/01/2012 09:32:12
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814 forum posts
36 photos
As has been said they are very easy to make, I have even made holders for screwcutting inserts although they are a bit more tricky with more complex angles.
 
A milling vice with angular base is very convenient to use along with quite a small milling cutter (2.5 to 3mm or even smaller for the tiny inserts)
 
When making the tapped hole I make a punch with a diameter about 5 thou less than the diameter of the hole in the insert, with a shallow point angle. The insert is then placed into the milled pocket in the holder and the punch (held vertically) forces the insert tightly into place while spotting the hole. This proceedure ensures that when the insert is screwed into the holder it is levered tightly into position with no chance of moving when cutting metal.
 
Doug.
John Stevenson18/01/2012 09:53:57
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5068 forum posts
3 photos
I have made the odd one in the past.
 

 
 
 
John S.
Ian S C18/01/2012 10:29:04
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7468 forum posts
230 photos
John S, I could go out to the workshop and get a tool holder almost identical to one in your wee stack, another one has clamping at both ends, so that I have a left, and right tool on the one shank-two tools, half the steel. Ian S C ps., after 15 yrs they are a bit beat up.
Ian P18/01/2012 11:40:15
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2747 forum posts
123 photos
Slightly off topic but in the John Stevenson's photograph I notice he has removed the knurling of the mating faces of the vice jaws. I'm envious!
 
I suppose the knurled surface is OK for rough work but the rest of the time one ends up with putting packing of some sort to prevent damage to the work. I frequently grip anodised aluminium sheet and very clean finely surface ground jaw faces do not generally need even a paper protective sheet, Most standard soft jaws get embedded with grit and swarf and in any event do not clamp tightly right at the edge.
 
When I left school and started as a sort of apprentice an engineer at the company who made prototypes got delivery of a new vice for his bench, the first thing he did was fully dismantle it and fettle it up so that it worked smoothly. I saw him grind the jaws and the memory of his attention to details has stuck with me.
 
Not having a surface grinder I have generally done mine on a belt linisher. It would be good if someone would offer an exchange postal service! Any takers?
 
Ian
John Stevenson18/01/2012 12:42:27
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5068 forum posts
3 photos
Ian,
If I need to do any rough work I have another vice or the original hardened serrated jaws.
 
I hate hard jaws and hardened packings, most of mine are just pieces of gauge plate cut and ground to size. if you make a mistake all you have is a dinged packing and not a blunt or broken tool.
 
These vise jaws are again just pieces of gauge plate that have been drilled and counterbored. When they get too bad on the top with file and hacksaw marks they just get a quick lick up.
 
John S.
 
PS the lathe tools are a commercial job, from this photo they go for professional hardening and blackodizing.
 
There is a set of three different ones that go out on rental on-site pipe facing machines. When the machines come back in the toolholders are always missing, usually just thrown away so it's always an ongoing job.
Ian P18/01/2012 13:31:47
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2747 forum posts
123 photos
Posted by John Stevenson on 18/01/2012 12:42:27:
Ian,
If I need to do any rough work I have another vice or the original hardened serrated jaws.
 
I hate hard jaws and hardened packings, most of mine are just pieces of gauge plate cut and ground to size. if you make a mistake all you have is a dinged packing and not a blunt or broken tool.
 
John S.
 
PS the lathe tools are a commercial job, from this photo they go for professional hardening and blackodizing.
 
I know the tools are a commercial job, I bought one!
 
If I had a choice I would have the vice jaws are glass hard. That way, and used carefully, even if the file or hacksaw blade did make the occasional contact they would just skid and not even damage the teeth.
 
Ian
David Littlewood18/01/2012 17:45:32
533 forum posts
Ian,
 
I am doubtful about your assertion that contact between file or sawblade and hardened steel would not blunt the former - it certainly goes against my experience.
 
David
Ian P18/01/2012 20:03:01
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2747 forum posts
123 photos
Posted by David Littlewood on 18/01/2012 17:45:32:
Ian,
 
I am doubtful about your assertion that contact between file or sawblade and hardened steel would not blunt the former - it certainly goes against my experience.
 
David
 
Yes, I accept what you say, I was referring to careful use of a saw/file. By coincidence on another post today 'corner rounding' buttons were mentioned. They are usually hardened and designed to be contacted by the file teeth. As long as no pressure is applied no damage is done to the teeth.
 
Ian
Roderick Jenkins18/01/2012 20:34:26
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2376 forum posts
800 photos
When I make filing buttons for rounding ends I let them rotate on the spindle through the hole. This way they do not need hardening but I can't use a retaining nut on both ends since one of them will unscrew.
 
Rod
Peter Bell19/01/2012 07:20:34
399 forum posts
167 photos

Thanks for all the helpful advice and the inspirational pic frrom John S.
 
Previously I have had to machine all my tool holders to get the centre height right (must have bought the wrong ones at various ME shows!) so making some would get over that problem.
 
Getting the retaining screw in the right place is something that had put me off so the ideas of getting that screw in the right place so that the tip is well clamped are very welcome
 
Peter
Stub Mandrel19/01/2012 20:27:17
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4318 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles
Hey John - That's a lot of scrappers! >DUCKS<
 
A hard sharp point on a dead hard surface can skid as the friction is so low. Low friction =low wear.
 
Neil
Gray6204/08/2014 13:45:44
1058 forum posts
16 photos

I've just acquired a box of ccmt 06 tips and am about to make some holders for them.

What is the best way to mount the tips? I've seen holders with them flat, negative rake and positive rake.

cheers

Graeme

Neil Wyatt04/08/2014 14:52:16
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19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

My CCMT holder has the tip perfectly horizontal, the angles are all provided by the geometry of the tip.

Neil

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