What to buy next??

So I got very little in the way of tooling with my lathe (myford ML7) when I purchased it and was wondering what would be the best piece of equipment to buy next?

All I have at the moment is a 3 jaw Pratt & Burnerd chuck, Quick change toolpost with tangential toolholder and a bench grinder.

My first thoughts are either a collet set or some tailstock tooling but if anyone has some better suggestions for me to spend some of my money then let me know!

Some HSS for the tangential toolholder?

Have got some hss too 😊

Edited By Curtis Rutter on 29/03/2017 17:07:44

Four jaw chuck and the know-how to use it properly.

I'm hardly the most experienced person on here, though I've been using my Myford on and off for 20+ years; not for model making, but general repairs, self generated workshop tool making, and car/bike parts.

It depends on what you plan to use yours for, and also your budget, but I couldn't do without a 4 jaw independent chuck.

Mainly though enjoy learning about your new toy.

Bill

I couldn't survive without a 4 jaw independent chuck and a dial test indicator.

Cheers,

Rod

Well Curtis, the second item I got for my lathe decades ago was a 4-jaw independent, same when I bought a new lathe.

Thor

Curtis

Four jaw independent chuck and a "clock" (d.t.i.).

When I bought my reconditioned S7 from Myford I opted for a four jaw chuck instead of the usual 3 jaw. They seemed a bit surprised.

JA

as others say a 4 jaw

Tailstock drill chuck

After a tailstock chuck and a 4-jaw, buy stuff as you need it, rather than just in case.

That's the way to make your budget last!

Neil

I have just taken delivery of a ME workshop crammed full of stuff that will be useful some time thats still in its wrappers.

A real shame, but he enjoyed buying it at the time.

4 jaw independant and a dti every time. Buy as you need, most things are available within 2 days.

Hope you have safety glasses!

Cheers all, will begin the hunt for a 4 jaw and DTI, Know I'm going to need a drill chuck pretty soon too.

Neil

Spoilsport. Buying just in case means lots of cool toys to look at and the pleasure of smiling sweetly whilst saying "I told you I'd need it" about something you bought 30 odd years ago. Actually I think my record is approaching 36 years. But I'm working on it.

One advantage of spending all your money on toys is that there is none left to buy materials so you can actually do something. Means you don't get shouted at for tracking swarf though the house.

Seriously. Pick your first job and get the extra gubbins you need to do it. After careful consideration of what else said gubbins might be needed for so you buy the most appropriate size, quality and performance at a price you can afford. In particular with carbide tips available relatively inexpensively if you pick the right suppliers and types. I find it very arguable that you can get away without HSS and grinding facilities. Good grinders aren't cheap so setting up to grind and laying in a stock of HSS may well approach the cost of a lifetime supply of carbide for a light to moderate user.

Clive.

Edited By Clive Foster on 29/03/2017 18:00:05

4 jaw independent chuck, tailstock drill chuck, DTI, 3 or 4" digi callipers for general use, then buy as you need.

George.

Basic extras with a new lathe would usually include the four jaw chuck as mentioned plus a fixed steady, a travelling steady and a faceplate. In addition you will probably soon find the need for a tailstock drill chuck and both a fixed and live tailstock centre. But (and pause for breath), the best way is to start your first job and just buy what you need to get it done. Ditto for all subsequent jobs. Eventually, you might have a new problem to contend with - where do I put it all? I am still trying to work that one out!

Rik

Bench grinder first,suggest 6 inch wheels,apart from hss tools ,there is a need to sharpen drills,and useful for sharpening other tools ,I made my first grinder 50 years ago before the days of cheap foreign tools. then tailstock drill chuck and a centre drill,then 4 jaw chuck. Then probably 2off 2 morse taper centres for turning work between centres. Then some means of accurate measurement ,digital calliper and a dial test indicator, then you can get on and do some reasonable turning,

If you want to work to thous, don't rely on digi calipers, buy a micrometer

I got a faceplate and fixed steady with my S7, have used each precisely once in over 10 years. Buy when & if you need them.

4J and DTI essential, also a good tailstock drill chuck.

Make or buy a couple of boring bars.

Digital caliper and/or micrometer(s) - I often use both on the same thing!

Then you're pretty well set to do most jobs.

Headstock collets are nice to have when you need them.

Or just get some decent digital calipers .