Member postings for peak4

Probably not the best time to reply, as the forum's going off-line tomorrow
I've just pulled a new AT1 off the shelf and wired it up to a motor on the bench.
The 5v terminal does give out 5v.
I then wired up a 5K pot and changed parameter 10 to 2, so enabling external speed control.
I get the full frequency range from 0-50Hz as expected.

The last time I heard of someone having this problem was when they mis-wired the pot, and had the wiper to the wrong terminal.
Most pots I've seen have the wiper as the centre terminal, but maybe not all.

Also, whilst the wiring schematic refers to 10v/5v my own actual AT1 has the wiring terminal labelled as 5v (only)
The basic schematic is used for more than one model, so it may be that the AT3 has a 10v terminal instead of a 5v one.
The manuals supplied are pretty basic, and show 15v & 24v as the other outputs, depending on whether they are AT1,2, or 3. My AT1 terminal block is labelled as 12v, so don't put too much store on the manual's labelling of voltage outputs.

Bill

According to Simply Bearings, the minimum pulley diameter for a 6mm round belt is 57mm
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p20247560/6mm-RPN-Type-Round-Volta-Conveying-Solutions-Cord-Belting-(Green)/product_info.html

However, if a 6x4mm Mini V belt will fit the headstock pulley, then the recommended minimum size for that is only 20mm.
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p680016/Optibelt-VB-6x280-Li-Cogged-Classical-6mm-Wide-4mm-Deep-V-Belt/product_info.html

Still need to source or make a pulley of course.

Bill

Chris, you mention a slotting tool in the style of a boring bar, which is what I've used in the past for similar jobs.

How about a slotting tool in the style of a between centres boring bar, where the bar is thus supported both ends.

Drill & bore the internal hole first, then mount on the lathe cross slide; broach the slot by moving the workpiece rather than the tool.

You could maybe minimise the material to be broached by drilling axially off centre before boring the main hole.

Finish the OD by mounting the sleeve on a conventional mandrel.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 03/10/2023 11:52:08

Excellent, glad it worked out; lay off the spinach.

Bill

I wonder if your carbide tipped saw has chipped due to chattering.

If I'm using a hole saw like that to enlarge an existing hole, I mount the workpiece on a spare piece of hardwood.

Use the drill bit in the holesaw to drill into the hardwood, through the hole in the centre of your metal plate.
Remove the drill from the holesaw, and replace with a suitable length of round bar, the same diameter; I keep a previously broken drill bit and just reverse it.
Oil the hole in the hardwood and use the holesaw to make the new larger hole, as the centre of the is now supported in the hardwood to act as a bearing.

p.s. a diamond saw would likely clog, just use the HSS one, lube with WD40 , paraffin, or similar, and keep clearing the chips out.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 26/09/2023 23:25:45

Here you go, have a try at downloading the ISO standard;
P29 on seems to define the terminology

https://regbar.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/ISO-1891-2009-ÖNEMLİ.pdf

For hex heads, fully threaded seems to be a screw, whereas partially threaded is a bolt.
Various other forms are subsequently defined.

See also ISO 898-1, who's bibliography pointed me towards the one above
https://pppars.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/ISO-898-1.pdf

ISO888 defines the various thread lengths of metric bolts.
https://regbar.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/ISO-888-2012.pdf

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 26/09/2023 22:00:03

Is it a lever, or a sliding bolt, which acts as a spindle lock?
A photo, or a part number from the manual, or Myford's web site would help no end.

Bill

Recently I've been to pick up a 36" vernier gauge in very good condition; the vendor gave me a 40" very rusty one as a freebee.

I didn't want to risk damaging the engraving, but I had some Evaporust in stock; there's lots of sources, many cheaper than this. I certainly paid less, maybe via eBay or Amazon.
https://www.toolstation.com/evapo-rust-rust-remover/p55677

Initially I brushed it on every day, and stored in a poly bag, but eventually found some plastic waste pipe (40mm maybe??)
A plug was made for the end, and the whole rule section suspended in the de-ruster for a couple of days.

It worked well, without damaging the parent metal at all.

Your round bar looks ideally shaped for a similar treatment, but make sure you do a thorough de-grease first.

Bill

As per Bernard's comments, but I'd also suggest that most conventional machine reamers should work too.

i.e. hand reamers, with a square drive on the end for a tap wrench, tend to have a tapered lead -in, whereas machine reamers with a Morse taper on the blunt end, cut on the leading edge.

Bill

For me the app does what I need and seems to work OK, though I've not tried the local mapping; a number of the poor reviews seem to come from outside the UK.
Slight cellphone hitch round our way as the local conspiracy theorists set fire to the nearby mast on the 22nd.
Fortunately for me, not on Tesco/O2 network but still a pain for other users, as well as the guy who lost his HGV parked underneath.
Apparently, according to the bitchute videos, 23rd Sept was the trial date for 5G broadcast 18GHz pulses to enable the hidden viruses, and activate the graphine oxide, in the Covid vax jabs, with the full rollout on the 4th Oct, so I've no idea what they'll try and torch before then.

Re cataract surgery, I only had my right eye done as the left is largely still OK, so wouldn't have fallen within the grounds for a formal NHS referral. After discussing with the optician, our intention was to end up with balanced eyesight, as I'd still need glasses anyway for the left eye.
I'm used to just taking off the varifocals for closer bench work.
The eye hospital wanted to optimise for long sight in both eyes, and have my left eye done privately, but I did say I'd prefer what the optician and I had discussed.
The end result is, that the new right lens has left me long sighted, whereas the left eye is still short sighted, so daren't risk using machine tools as I can't judge close up distance.
I'm awaiting my 3rd prescription now, so hopefully I'll soon be back in the workshop again; as it stand at the moment I can see to drive on my left eye, as I can read distant and mid range number-plates etc fine, but struggle with any close work, and can't read newspapers etc.
I picked up two pairs of reading glasses from Aldi +1 & +3 and swapped one of the lenses over, so I can almost see to mend things on the bench; lining up the screwdriver with the screw is amusing, and I'm prone to soldering the wrong joints.

Bill

OK, I think I've got there folk (maybe )

For whatever reason related to Margaret's lathe, the studs supplied by Ketan don't fit.
She needed a stud where one end is internally threaded M8 and was able to obtain one from LMS
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3712&category=521186833

This has an external 9/16" UNF thread, and needs the appropriate nut.

The ArcEuro web site and paper catalogue differ slightly in their presentation, but the column which specifies the stud size/hole diameter is labelled as øD where the ø refers to the hole diameter's nominal size.

On the web site, The 101 toolpost says øD 14mm (M14x1.5mm Stud)

But for the 111 toolpost says øD 14mm (9/16" UNF Stud)

i.e. same hole diameter, but just mentions a different stud; likely either will fit.

Ketan supplies a stud suitable for an SC4 lathe, but that has an M12 lower thread and an M14x1.5mm top thread
https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Tool-Posts/Model-100111-Tool-Post-Stud-and-Nut-for-SC4-Lathe

I'm guessing this was the source for the nut which doesn't fit Margaret's LMS stud from the US.

It looks like the ArcEuro stud wouldn't fit Margaret's lathe, hence ordering a suitable one, (threaded M8 internally), from abroad, which unfortunately didn't come complete with a suitable nut, though for a US buyer, they are readily available.

The end result is that Margaret just needs a 9/16" UNF nut and washer, which should be easily available.
9/16" UNF flange nuts seem hard to find in the UK, and I've tried quite hard; up to 1/2" do seem to be around.

The only possibility I did find for an off-the-shelf flange nut was a wheel nut for some very specific American cars, such as a Dodge RAM; most UK 9/16" UNF wheel/lug nuts have tapered or spherical seats, rather than a plain flange washer, so would be unsuitable.

Bill

Margaret, right, now I understand your confusion.
Where did the middle screenshot of the three in your second to last post come from?
It's misleading in its presentation.

Out of curiosity, where did you source your toolpost, we know the stud came from LMS?

I believe the 111 toolpost and the stud details you have circled, in column D, is likely to lead to a misunderstanding
That toolpost will take either a M14x1.5mm stud with the appropriate nut, **OR** a slightly larger diameter 9/16" UNF one.
The nuts are not interchangeable between studs.

The model 100 in row A above may **ONLY** take a 14mm stud as it likely has a smaller hole, so 9/16" won't fit.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 24/09/2023 16:30:47

Right now I understand a bit more;
The other app I use is Network Cell Info; I use the free lite version and put up with the adverts which aren't too intrusive.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wilysis.cellinfolite&hl=en_GB&gl=US

It gives a nice clear easy to read display which might suit your needs without resorting to reading glasses.
The previous app I mentioned does have a rather small text.

I've never tried, but I think it allows you to build up a local signal strength map as well, though you might need the paid for version..

Bill

Margaret, sorry if I didn't word my previous reply clearly enough.
From what I can make out, and please correct me if I'm wrong, you have a 111 QC toolpost from Ketan, but are using a stud from LMS.

From the link I supplied for the ArcEuro toolpost, the thread specified in their catalogue is M14x1.5mm
This is not 9/16" UNF as you state in brackets.

I believe you have sourced an LMS stud from the USA to replace the ArcEuro one
This is a different thread and is 9/16" UNF, so you need a nut to match the specific stud you are using.

The toolpost might possibly accept either stud, but the nut is specific to the stud, not the toolpost

If you do actually have an LMS stud, you seems to need a 9/16" UNF nut
If you are using an ArcEuro stud you need an M14x1.5mm nut.

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 24/09/2023 15:38:23

I'm no expert, but I couldn't find a way to easily display it, so I use Netmonitor app, which works well enough
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.parizene.netmonitor&hl=en&gl=US

Handy for WiFi strength too.

Bill

Margaret, I think you're getting your threads a a bit mixed up.
The ArcEuro tool holder looks to be this one which on the spec sheet says the thread is M14x1.5mm
Yes, the 14mm diameter is about 9/16" but it's not an imperial size.

The LMS version on sale, I assume is this one; it specifies 9/16" x18 tpi, which is a UNF thread.

The actual toolposts are probably the same, it's just that the fixing post is a different thread.
Traditionally the UK used Whitworth/BSF threads on machine tools etc, whereas the USA uses Unified.
The diameters may be the same size, but the thread forms are different.

Most of the rest of the world uses Metric, which is why many of the far eastern tooling imports feature metric threads; hence the same QC toolpost marketed in the US uses a 9/16" x 18UNF thread, and our version often uses the M14 stud as it's cheaper than having BSF ones made specially for us, as almost no-one uses it any more.

Your local car spares will likely have a 9/16" x18 UNF plain nut, which you can use with a thick washer for the time being; You could even use a Nyloc nut and turn off the plastic locking ring.

Your local Landrover spares counter will almost certainly have the Nyloc ones, as they are used for leaf spring shackle bolts; N.B. make sure you specify the thread to them, as they may also stock BSF (& metric).

Longer term let me have your address and I'll knock one up, but I'm not using the workshop at the moment, as I await new specs following a cataract operation; I'm not safe using machine tools at the moment.

Bill

The combination of Michael's comments about Stephen Fry, and this little video I came across the other day are potentially quite frightening.
On the fly language translation, where you are shown speaking a different language, complete with lip sync on a manipulated video output.

Edited By peak4 on 24/09/2023 01:28:01

Personally I line my drawers with VCI paper; readily available from Ebay amongst other sources.
It's a little uncomfortable at first, but I use the offcuts for my micrometer boxes

Bill

Hmmmm. a friend of mine is a civil engineer, with an involvement in newbuild housing estates.
Design life came up in one of our conversations a couple of months ago; he reckoned that most new builds he's involved with have a design life of 40 years; 50 if you're lucky and going for a more expensive option.

Other stuff I'd read suggested that 60 years was the normal design life for UK housing stock.

I've just looked around for an article to back up his comments, and dropped on this one about timber frame construction
http://www.brand-newhomes.co.uk/timber-frame-new-homes.htm

"In 2010, one in four new homes is being constructed using timber frame or, to be more accurate timber panel, construction."

And then this one;
http://www.brand-newhomes.co.uk/considerations-when-buying-a-timber-frame-new-home.htm

"The timber frame itself is normally "guaranteed" by the manufacturer for various periods ranging from 10 to 40 years. It is a commonly perceived opinion within the industry that 25 –30 years is a reasonably expected life span for a softwood timber framed building."

I've no idea about the veracity of either of those links; not my field of expertise.
I wonder if there is another problem looming.

Bill

Jans does metric ones under licence from Graham; maybe he could tell you where to fins the imperial variety
https://www.vintage-tools-machines.com/winkel/super-7/metrische-nonius-voor-op-de-langsslede-myford-7-series/

Bill