Member postings for not done it yet

Further aside, cars with turbos (or those blocks) often have access to the turbo (or would be) drain, so might even have a dipstick (if old enough) and be drained from the other side of the engine to the dipstick. I think our peugeot 2 !/4 diesel was thus equipped?

I rarely change the engine oil in my car by draining. I use a vacuum device to ‘suck’ it out. Most dealerships likely do it this way, if possible.

If it is a hydraulic system with pump, i would likely run the pump to empty the oil reservoir.

‘Outside the box’ often comes up with a viable alternative.

Not knowing any further details, but I would likely change the belt type - unless it is a special requirement - if practicable. Multi-V comes yo mind.

Not if one only delivers dry air for that duty. Air-line dryers are readily available, as are air line lubricators.

As Rob and Andrew. Steep to me means it is very hard-going for a (short?) time at that point of the learning curve. If insufficient stamina, at a high rate of energy use, you might never get to the top of the hill (to the ‘plateau’ or less arduous part of the curve). Falling back to the bottom of the hill might mean the job is just too much for the individual concerned.

Do not just drag it, as you might propose to. Always roll it gently on a minimum of three pieces of pipe/bar (I only use 25mm diameter, not scaffold tubes), it will move much more easily - sometimes too easily - so please don’t try this yourself unless you cannot find at least one helper.

A pallet truck is a very good option. Engine crane only at a push - they are good for lifting things but not so handy for moving them any distance - especially on your own. Any helpers must be fully aware to be safe and not try to physically hold back the machine if it tips!

If any doubt as to stability, dismantle as far as possible, before any pending disaster may occur.

BE SAFE!

I operated with a 6” Record (?) vise for several years. I got it because it had been broken (cracked) and was going for scrap. I welded two very substantial steel plates to either side and used it until I scrapped it - when I got a good one, with quick release, from the same source.

John/Frank,

There seems to be some discrepancies with at the thread on at least one other forum.

Is 5HP or 4HP largest motor? Will only one drive really be used at any one time (not entirely clear on the other one)?

Problem is not really complicated . Buy a 5HP VFD and accept that there will be no programmed protection for smaller motors. That way you have variable speed option for the one single motor in operation, but the VFD would need to be switched off between motor selection?

A non-variable converter should be cheaper than a VFD.

IF all the motors could be changed to delta (from star), thus allowing 230V operation, a cheaper converter could be purchased.

The alternative would be running those motors in star confiuration @ 230V and taking a 1/3 motor power availability hit.

With only needing one large 5HP inverter, if all the smaller motors (down to 1/5HP) could be changed to delta, you could likely buy discrete units, for each and every one, for rather less than a grand and be able to programme each for the safety/overload features? 3 HP VFDs seem to be a popular size, providing the optimum value per HP capacity?

I am running 5 (mostly cheap chinese) inverters in my workshop. Obviously purchased at earlier prices ( but some are likely cheaper now). Largest is/are 2.25kW and smallest is about 250W (I think). Certainly less that £500 outlay 

Edited By not done it yet on 03/10/2023 08:42:50

I assume this helps bond the paint to the metal better? Quicker?

By all means assume it dries/cures the paint much quicker, but apart from that I wouldn’t assume anything else.

Personally, I don’t see the point in anything much bigger than a 160mm chuck for most hobby-sized lathes. Taper roller bearings will obvious stand the loadings, but will the rest of it be up to it. I am happy with my 26mm spindle bore along with a fixed steady, on the occasions needed.

Some may be able to put up with short stubs, some may not (if making repetitive pieces, for instance), There is not really that much between 25mm and 38mm where the problem msy arise.

In other words, there is more than one way to ‘skin a cat’ as they say. Most hobbyists got by perfectly adequately, with the tiny spindle bore on the myfords, for half a century and more!

I suspect it is somewhere between about 10 and 20 quid!

I went Raglan MKII after a chinese lathe because I happened across a deal one day and loaded it onto my lorry. I then upgraded (at my leisure) to a Raglan 5 which does all I need in a very satisfactory manner. I shall not change again.

All sources including Banggood considered.

You are on your own if you are buying from them - or vevor and a few other suppliers of possibly substandard items.

There is a fellow on the morris minor forum that actually supplies bespoke speedo drive cable gears to change the turns fed into the speedo head.

In the Uk, the speedo error can be up to 10% optimistic but must not indicate a lower speed.

We are only talking about 200rpm at the speedo drive, so maybe some combinations are close enough to mesh adequately?

My workshop was originally built at one end of a sectional concrete garage with shallow pitched roof. The concrete floor was screeded to avoid any water ingress at that level (the vertical wall sections were sealed only on the inside sections, so driving rain, that might access the small gaps on the outside would go out, not under and in). I didn’t add any extra insulation at that time, but would do now, if I were to start again!

150mm+ of rock-wool insulation was added and supported by old garage doors (cheap as chips), as the internal construction - both as walls and ceiling. The ceiling was covered with 150mm of rock-wool.

That sufficed until I twice extended my workshop area. I extended with insulation sheets. The walls are 100mm Celotex/Recticel (1200x2400mm). At the same time I added 25mm of Recticel to the garage door section - wish I had fitted more, but space was limited).

I sourced the equivalent of about 7 1/2 full sheets of 100mm PU insulation from a regular dispersal sale (near Kidderminster) in mostly 1200x1200mm and 1200x600mm sizes. The 100mm celotex/recticel sheets were purchased at an auction site I regularly attended. The cost of that insulation was very cost effective

The internal surfaces have been covered with variously-sourced ply sheeting. I don’t weld or plasma cut inside my workshop. No windows and a fully insulated door maintains a warm environment in winter and a cool one in summer. I am adding more insulation over the workshop as and when I can. My internal construction fell nicely just under the roof supports, with an eaves height of 8’ 6”.

For yours, I would repair the roof problems but leave the rest as is. The pitched roof, with non-asbestos corrugated sheets, is no longer available as storage for mine. Fire safety measures are likely higher for your installation, so mine might be not appropriate for yours. Thicker layers of rock-wool are likely a better choice.

Ventilation is required if dry-cutting with cutting fluid - not a difficult addition. Good luck with your installation. Mine was done on a tight budget, over a longish period of time.

Is the cycling speed change consistent? Try the motor without any load (remove the drive belt)).

Is there a ‘click’ as the motor slows? Turn off the power when motor is as fast as it gets and listen closely to the motor as it slows. If there is a ‘click’ when the motor would normally start to speed up,

Report back.

Sleeve the casting to the larger diameter?

Bush the over-sized hole and remachine?

I dunno how much ‘meat’ there is available, but it should be a fairly simple choice.?

The difference? You tighten the nut onto a bolt. You tighten the screw with a screw. Simple enough?

Fill the current hole and start again with the hole saw? They are nog that accurate/precise and the finish imay be somewhat agricultural.

No lathe? Simple enough (if it will swing the disc) to drill and bore?

With only a mill, you could invest in a boring head?

Is it 20mm (as in the thread title) or 25mm as in the text of the thread? What’s wrong with drilling it? May need to step-drill, if your drilling capacity is less, but doable.

It is almost certainly ‘the straw that breaks the camel’s back’ scenario.

It might be surprising but the allowable earth leakage is about 7W - about the same power as a typical lowish powered LED lamp!

However the trip could be occurring at as much as 14W (if each machine is providing enough leakage to ‘almost’ trip the RCD.

I might suspect the VFDs are cheaper examples (from China?), but am not qualified to make any definitive judgement on that score.

As I see it, leakage to earth is not actually going to be a danger - until the earth path resistance makes it preferable for the current to go through you! Of course, far better - every time - to trip than the alternative of possible electrocution.

I do wonder how many actually check the trip, on their main RCD, on a regular basis?