Lock Problems

Hmpph! The kitchen door lock is stuck shut (a 5-lever type). I've tried WD40 and using the key from both sides, but it feels like the ebolt has jammed in the open position.

Has anyone in here got any advice beyond investing ina locksmith?

Neil

P.S. tried driving out the hing pins, but so fat they haven't budged. Dometsic authorities not impressed with my suggestion of cutting the hinges off with a 'dremel'

PPS: Stand down folks! The advice http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/jammed-workshop-door-lock-help-please-t21258.html worked. I haven't got a dead blow hammer, but numerous thumps with the butt of the rubber encased handle of a big claw hammer, some way above the lock, did the job. Hidden teh key and will replace the lock. There is a second lock which stuill works OK.

Edited By Stub Mandrel on 28/04/2012 11:44:11

Neil - Locks and WD40 are a definite no-no. If you want to free it up(and keep it free) get some 'puff powder' (graphite powder). Putting WD40 into locks ensures that they WILL seize fairly soon thereafter!!

Rgds

Bill

Stub Mandrel Now is your chance to become a 'lock smith'. If you have two keys check them for wear, first by eye and second by measuring. Remember that locks are moderately precision bits of work. In a lever lock there are two bits which protect the bolt. The first are the 'baffles' which take the form of cylinders which if the key does not have corresponding groves in it you cannot turn the key, The second part of the protection are the 'levers'.these have narrow cutouts on them. Lift them too high or not high enough and they stop the bolt from moving..

What can go wrong? Broken springs on the levers, wear causing ridges inside the levers, damaged baffles. wear to the keys and the key axle bearing scuffing in the sliding surfaces, lack of luberication etc.

To cure dismantle the lock carefully watch out for the springs. I always number the levers so i can put them back in the right orders and when you do lubricate them well. Get rid of burs and straighten up baffles etc.

Locks are fascinating things designed to work for years with complete neglect. Clearances are quite large to allow for wear.

PS how do I know My house builders fitted the cheapest of the cheap locks so I often have to attend to then to get some one out of the 'kahazi' and then re-engineer the door

Good luck

Rdgs

Dick

You'v got the idea Neil, if all else fails, get a bigger hammer, does it every time. Ian S C

call the SAS, they will do it with a shaped frame charge! Boom!

Clive

Hi Bill,

My dad drilled it into me that nothing kills mechanisms faster than WD40! He said it was the most effective way of removing lubricant known to man. But if you need to loosen up something stuck...

I won't trust that lock again - if there was a fire... fortunately the other lock hasn't ever shown any problems.

An unfortunate aside - that crash near Burton on Trent was a few hundred yards from us You may see me on Sty News later saying it was an accident waiting to happen.

Neil

Dremel no,angle grinder yes!

Pailo.

Hi Pailo.

Angle grinder+uPVC door=melty mess!

Neil

I've always used WD40 on padlocks outdoors, frees them up a treat and seems to keep them working for ages.

Not had any reason to try it on internal doors (yet).

Edited By V8Eng on 28/04/2012 17:29:04

I think another thread about rust prevention pointed out that WD40 evaporates too quickly - ok its months but not good enough for year round protection. My preference for locks is vaseline on the basis that the key ends up in my pocket & hands and I don't want mineral oils on my hanky.

There was a thread some time ago that got to say the least quite heated about WD40.

Personally I avoid the cheapo chingalees B&Q locks that the builders like to fit (extra profit) and stick to Yale or Chub brand or similar from a reputable locksmith's shop.

Neil a bad smash up is never a nice thing to witness. sounds by your comment to be a black spot.

Bob

But Vaseline is a mineral grease - petroleum jelly?

Russell.

Bob,

It's a wet Sunday and for want of something else to do I went to check out where Chubb were being made only to find that their opening line is to deny any connection with locks or safes in the UK . Its all owned by some Assa Abloy oufit and then, Lo and Behold, I look up Yale and they too are owned by the same Assa Abloy along with Union and several other brands.

Can you trust the name you see on anything nowadays?

Bob D

For the record, the lock is a chubb.

I can't remove the lock as I have no idea how the door handles are fitted. I don't want to damage the plastic end-caps on the handle plate, but can I assume there's a locking screw underneath them?

Neil

PlusGas, very handy stuff.

Plenty listed on Ebay.

Edited By V8Eng on 29/04/2012 18:58:08

ASSA Abloy, good Swedish company with excellent products under their own name as well as those mentioned. Pick resistant and other standards.

Normally we just stick an angle grinder down the space between the door and frame and cut the bolt/catch off then replace the lock. You can get 5lever locks cheaper then 3 quality brass hinges nowadays

Normally we just stick an angle grinder down the space between the door and frame and cut the bolt/catch off then replace the lock. You can get 5lever locks cheaper then 3 quality brass hinges nowadays

I feel sorry for the state of the door and frame after an angle grinder attack, if a locksmith turned up with one of these I would send him packing. and then fit another el cheapo wow

You'd be surprised how tidy an angle grinder "artist" can be if they use a thin cutoff wheel and are careful. I've cut a few deadbolts that way for friends and relatives (with full permission, totally legal purposes) and made no mark at all on frame or door, didn't even scratch the paint. Of course this only works on outward opening doors where you have access to the deadbolt. For inward opening doors the weather stop has to be removed first, which does some damage.

It is a good idea to pull out the grinder and spray in a good flood of some cooling water regularly, and you need a lot of care to hold the grinder central to the slot.

I got lots of practice at that sort of op in the 1980's cutting out brake calipers on GM cars. Reason was the drive sockets of the damn Torx headed bolts they used on these el cheapo cars would fill with rust and corruption making them impossible to remove. When cutting them off we had to be very careful not to nick the rotor or caliper.

JD