Central heating woes.

Our heating/hot water went down a couple of weeks ago - low pressure, so the boiler shut down. I repressurised, no problem, it happens from time to time. But then it happened again a week later, the gauge was down to zero. This time I noticed water dripping from the boiler. So clearly a leak in its innards.

British Gas (I have their Homecare policy) refused to come out as it isn't an emergency - we can still get hot water and heat by repressurising and coping with the leak. At what point it becomes an emergency I don't know. Perhaps when the leak gets so bad that it destroys the boiler electronics and/or forces me to shut water off at the mains.

A question to anyone who understands plumbing though.

I've got everything going except the kitchen radiator, which remains stubbornly cold, despite my having bled it and every other radiator in the house. Not a life-threatening problem, but annoying.

Any advice?

Robin.

If it has a thermostatic valve on it try taking the head off and seeing if the valve pin is stuck.

If it is stuck down you can, very carefully, try lifting it with a pair of pliers. Don't pull too hard or it might come out and produce a small fountain.

Perhaps when the leak gets so bad that it destroys the boiler electronics and/or forces me to shut water off at the mains.

Expensive, but not necessarily an emergency. Isolate from mains? Surely the system has an isolating valve, or valves? So there should be no emergency in having to close off the whole supply to the dwelling? Just make sure the fault is reported to BG, in writing, so they are made aware that any further damage to the boiler should be covered by their scheme. Also, ask their advice on further action by you to prevent any further damage which could be caused by them not attending.

Do you not have an immersion heater in your hot water system? I would not want a system whereby there is no alternative when the inevitable occurs (it packs up).

I’d second the explanation that Brian has given. 👍

Hello Robin,

after the water pressure goes down the radiator has now air in it. Therefore no heating is possible.

You have to let the air out of the radiator until water comes again. And then you have to look to the system pressure and add water to the central unit again.

I have sometimes the same problem in my kitchen.

Werner

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 20/04/2020 07:52:17

Hi Robin, as Brian has said, a thermostatic radiator valve can get stuck down sometimes. I have had it happen to one of mine, and very often it can be cured by closing the valve right down and then opening it again or just tapping the valve body with a rubber mallet.

Regards Nick.

I would take cover off boiler to see if I could see leak ,might only be a joint needs tightening.

You could put a bottle of Fernox leak sealer in the system ,usually stops most leaks.

Cancel your 'Homecare' policy before you do anything else.

I'd be inclined to investigate just where the leak is, it could be something like the diverter valve if it's a combi boiler.

Once the location of the leak is identified and the faulty part found, you should be able to order the part online. Then get a few tools out and replace it having drained down the boiler first.

There are many videos on line that show how to replace parts so not that difficult to do and before there is the outcry of gas safe, it's not a gas issue just water side.

parts

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 20/04/2020 09:37:19

I would find the leak first, and then repair, -- joint leak or boiler and replace or as Maurice suggests radweld or other make of water sealant and then repressurise and bleed radiators

Rad sealer will not work where parts move like diverter valves.

Youve probably got an air lock or build up of sludge somewhere. But ours isnt a closed system. I went through the whole circus of cleaning out our radiators manually one by one using hose pipes to clean out all the radiators ,taking each off and carrying outside. I did leave cleaner in for several day before i started. It has actually worked ,we already had a power flush years ago and didnt want to pay for another one .

It even solved the problem of the valve sticking and not switching off when the timer went off.

My parents combi boiler is always leaking, british gas usually come out and often just tighten one of the brss nuts under neath it.

My Daughter had a leak coming from the inside of her boiler. It had been leaking for sometime as the scale deposit on the gland nut showed. This had been missed by 3 service engineers. A quarter of a turn with a spanner stopped the leak completely. I could access the nut from beneath the cupboard in which it was installed. Might be worth a look as the symptoms are the same as my Son-in-law was experiencing.

Regards

Gray,

Diverter valves are a known leak issue

As I found out when it tripped the RCBO on the boiler feed with water in the motor.

Edited By Bob Brown 1 on 20/04/2020 14:28:00

Thanks for replies.

We haven't got thermostatic radiator valves, so that's not it. Just 'taps' on one end of the rads and lock shields on the other.

It's strange that only one radiator is affected. It must be an airlock or perhaps a solid blockage. Maybe I should try kicking it - but that's Lockdown Psychosis speaking.

Probably I should cancel Homecare, but, as Harry says, now may not be the moment.

Robin.

It’s worth checking for any loose unions, at our previous house we had a new boiler fitted and the heating engineer asked if we had smelt any fumes from the old boiler he had removed, we had always complained of a smell of gas and he said not surprising as the gas inlet pipe Union was only finger tight, the system was serviced annually by British Gas, needless to say we don’t use them anymore.
Dave W

My boiler has an automatic air bleed which after 24 years had decided to leak, now I tightened the cap it doesn’t leak or auto bleed any more, ought to sort that out I suppose.

Mike

Could I suggest closing the valves (not the lock shield end) of all the other rads in the house. This should cause a gurgle and air to move. It is possible on some pumps to turn up the flow rate (small slider or dial) note original position and return to this setting as overpumping causes it’s own set of issues in due course?

Make sure lock shield valve of affected rad is fully open for the ‘blast through’ and returned to original setting once complete ( count number of turns that you move it).

Be aware that shutting the valves on the other rads may cause them to weep ( especially when cold) you may need to nip up the gland packing nut on the spindle.

Hope you succeed !