Member postings for Johnboy25

With all due respect… Big Ben is the largest bell in the clock tower. The clock is called the Great Clock of Westminster and the tower is now called The Queen Elizabeth Tower. It’s was renamed after Queen Elizabeth II on her Diamond Jubilee in 2012.

Hi folks - sorry I haven’t been able to get online since putting this new thread up.

Thank you all for your comments & suggestions The lens in question isn’t for it’s optical properties, it’s for a plano convex lens of the type that fits into a railway lamp. In this case a 1.5” scale loco lamp with LED & battery inside.

I’ve seen pitch(?) Being used years ago but didn’t know anything about this method - hence my question. In the light of day I’ll read though the replies once more.

Thank again - you can always rely on this forum to get guidance in the right direction. 👍

Edited By Johnboy25 on 27/04/2020 00:13:34

35grams = Approx.a level desert spoon full. ✔️-

Edited By Johnboy25 on 26/04/2020 23:55:10

I’ve read through the thread - I except I my have missed reading a similar reply but are you aware to change the direction of the lead screw or to put it into neutral, you need to release the lock-in pin mechanism by first of all pulling the direction change (red) knob towards the tailstock - with pressure exerted on the lever, move the lever up or down so that it moves the tumbler gear either out of neutral to mesh in the ‘forward’ or ‘reverse’ selection position. Something similar to the reverse gate on a car’s reverse gear selector. Hope this makes sense... 😳

P.S. The lathe MUST be in the stopped condition before operating any movement of the reversing lever.

Edited By Johnboy25 on 26/04/2020 23:51:26

Hi everybody - I’ve been looking on t’internet without much success how to mount or hold a small glass glass lens with the view to grinding the outside diameter to the size I require. I’ve seen clockmakers use melted pitch for mounting brass components. I’ve consider hot melt glue and various grades of Locite but de-mounting may be a problem with the temperature that Locite breaks down.
The over way might be to carefully clamp the lens using a rubber pad mounting in a live centre. Needless to say I haven’t tried anything yet. The last thing I want is the the lens de-mounts while grinding for obvious reasons. Any other advice or suggestions please?

I’d second the explanation that Brian has given. 👍

Second that - Rocol (the brown stuff - smell a bit sulphurous)

White spirit Neil. 👍 tried and tested. Works ok with a bit of elbow grease! 😋

Jim

This is a mod that has been produced to use the on/off button To disable the  servo Drive.

I also intend to incorporate an E-stop activated by the lathes control system.

Edited By Johnboy25 on 18/04/2020 09:28:44

Hi everyone. I’ve been following this build on James Clough’s YouTube channel (Clough42) this is an on going project and there have been updates which I have included & modified in software. There are ‘third parties’ actively adding options they consider to be useful. I have seem mods to include more safety features. This is not a ‘finished’ project and there are safe guard in place. Further info can be seen on github forum. Addition features are planned but James is currently contributing to the Corvid19 response producing PPE for hospital staff which he’s making on his 3D printers.

I have been building this system along with a friend who has a Southbend 4.1/2”. He wants to screw cut metric threads. He’s managed to get his hardware up and running and it has transformed the versatility of the lathe. I’ve been repairing/renovating the gearbox prior to fitting on my Boxford 4.1/2” metric lathe between making parts for the Loco project. I’m using this lockdown period to maximise workshop activities and trying to keep me out of harms way.

Stay well & keep away from this virulent viruse

Most of the Linear DRO’s I’ve come across are a RS232 or RS485 industrial coms spec. I prepared be corrected on this though. 🙂

Compatible shouldn’t be a problem - it’s the pin outs on the connectors and/or connector types. With TTL logic levels they probably would be powered via +5 Volts..

If anybody else has any info or experience on this I would be please to hear. 👍

Hi...

just a shout out for Bearingboys Ltd. Brilliant service (no affiliation)

ordered some HTD Drive belts & pulleys all components (two consignments) came in next day shortly followed by the other part of the Oder.

**LINK**

keep well & stay away from this b****y virus. 🤬

John.

Edited By Johnboy25 on 08/04/2020 09:33:48

I like this type! (Not) 🤣

I'm pretty sure they're BA sizes but don't know why they were numbered like that. They were common issue in MOD establishments. I'll have to see if I can find a set in the miscellaneous tool drawer to have a look. and remind myself...

David George - I would respectfully disagree with a threaded chuck revolving at slower speeds not becoming loose. I seen it happen, fortunately no injury was inflicted and I was a fair distance away from it! The reason it became loose was that there was a lot of chatter with the cutting tool which as we all experienced can happen when you you least expect it. This is my observation and I heard other people say similar.
Regards John

I'm using this time to catch up on some jobs that I've been putting of as there's always more interesting jobs to do in the workshop like tidying and cleaning the swarf from the lathe and mill which hasn't been done for a while or re-arranging my spare taps and dies in the drawers!

So today I've set to making miniture flange gaskets for my refurbished Clack Valves. After a practice attempt which went better than expected, I got the gaphite coated Klingersil sheets out and prepared two 1" square pieces and carfully cut the centre hole out with a pair of dividers that have been shapened specially for making gaskets.Then trimming the outside diameter of the flange using a surgical bladed scalple. Keeping fingers well out of the way of the cut as I didn't fancy pushing my luck down at A & E. They've got more urgent things to do at this horendous time.

A moment of admiration and gratitude for the staff in our National Health Service.

My small job done ready for assembly. Now to put them a safe place where I can find them when required and to find something else that ive been putting off!

John

Hi George.

I'm not trained machist but a self taught experienced amature so I'm prepared to take a hit on this one.

With square or acme threads I would normally roughout with a 60° internal boring bar then once this is cut to close depth, pick up the thread with the square ground boring bar and finish it off to depth. It may take a bit of practice and /or fiddling about to get the thread starting in the same position as the roughing cut.

I like cutting internal threads with the headstock running in the reverse direction with the tool upside down on the backside of the job as you can see what you're doing more easily - but this isn't always possible if you have a threaded chuck as the chuck could unscrew itself.

If there's another way perhaps someone can correct this.

John

Nice job. Look forward to see more of the project.

John

I’ve been looking for mater for a similar application. Thanks for the ‘heads up’ on this one.

I’ve found a link on t’internet:-

**LINK**

John.

I’ve been looking for mater for a similar application. Thanks for the ‘heads up’ on this one.

I’ve found a link on t’internet:-

**LINK**

John.