Deltic007 | 27/12/2015 21:49:56 |
![]() 131 forum posts 12 photos | Hi
Any idea what percentage Sulphuric acid to water for a decent pickle?
Cheers |
Rik Shaw | 27/12/2015 22:50:09 |
![]() 1494 forum posts 403 photos | Years ago my chemist supplied me with a dilute sulphuric acid mix for pickling which was very aggressive and did a super job. I am sorry I cannot advise on percentages but if you DIY bear in mind that you have to be careful.to avoid an explosive mix and I forget which way is safe. There are only two ways to dilute - either add the acid to the water or add the water to the acid. One is safe and the other is lethal. Rik |
Peter Krogh | 27/12/2015 23:05:24 |
![]() 228 forum posts 20 photos | Acid to water, never the other way round. Pete
Edited for typo as requested by Pete Edited By John Stevenson on 28/12/2015 01:09:55 |
Michael Cox 1 | 27/12/2015 23:06:03 |
555 forum posts 27 photos | A 10% solution of sulphuric acid should make a good pickle for brass, copper and steel. Always add the acid to water with gentle stirring. I would suggest rubber gloves and face goggles should be worn. Mike
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Bob Rodgerson | 27/12/2015 23:10:41 |
612 forum posts 174 photos | Acid to water stirring continuously. Don't use a Bamboo Cane for stirring. They burst with the heat generated. (Don't ask me how I know). |
Georgineer | 28/12/2015 00:24:06 |
652 forum posts 33 photos | To answer the original question, Engineering Workshop Practice by A.W.Judge, published in the late 1930s, says: "The usual acid bath consists of 1 part sulphuric acid to 5 to 10 parts of water. If more concentrated solutions of the acid are employed, the pickling process can be done more quickly. When making up the sulphuric-acid solution, always add the acid to the (greater) quantity of water; never pour water into the acid, as a considerable amount of heat is then developed with partially explosive results." Or, as 'Jake' Hateley taught us in third form chemistry in 1963: "For safety's sake do as you oughter; Add the acid to the water" George |
Peter Krogh | 28/12/2015 01:00:14 |
![]() 228 forum posts 20 photos | Damn dislexic fingers again. I screwed up as I meant to say it the other way round and after posted couldn't find a way to edit the post!!!!! Can snyone edit that so it'sz right?? Please? Pete_the_typing_idiot |
Peter Krogh | 28/12/2015 01:06:59 |
![]() 228 forum posts 20 photos | I really apologise for the bad information folks.
I mess up a lot when typing and try to catch errors before saving/posting but sometimes things 'slip' through. This is the one board where I can't edit my post when I blow it! The dyslexia is minor compared to the hand tremor. Pete
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Deltic007 | 28/12/2015 07:27:07 |
![]() 131 forum posts 12 photos | Thanks for the advice and entertainment
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herbert punter | 28/12/2015 09:15:27 |
128 forum posts 1 photos | Alas, poor Bill is dead, of him we'll hear no more For what he thought was H2O was H2SO4! |
Ajohnw | 28/12/2015 10:52:58 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | JS really should edit in add slowly while stirring. The problem is that heat will be generated and the rate that builds at needs to be controlled. The actual heat shouldn't worry people too much but mix the other way round and the water will boil instantly splashing the stuff all over the place. John - |
mick | 28/12/2015 16:09:47 |
421 forum posts 49 photos | If your using pickle to clean up brazing or silver soldering then lime scale descaler from Tesco takes some beating |
Geoff Shackleton | 28/12/2015 16:24:07 |
9 forum posts | Hello, If you are copper boiler making then I would recommend you buy 1N normal solution 98% concentrated sulphuric acid and dilute it to 25 to 1. Leave it any stronger and you will passivate the copper rather than clean it which can lead to problems if you are silver soldering. At 25 to 1 or even 30 to 1 the copper cleans very quickly and requires less scouring to remove the stubborn dirty bits. The last time I bought concentrated 98% acid I bought 2.5 litres from e-Bay and diluted it to fill two 30 litre plastic Jerry cans which are obtainable quite cheaply from Motorswares shops. Geoff
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Ajohnw | 28/12/2015 16:32:24 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | As I found recently it's best to store the stronger stuff diluted. I obtained mine from Cousins and it's clearly too strong to leave in the plastic containers it's supplied in for long periods. It's now in a glass demijohn as I do need it at that strength.
John - |
Tim Stevens | 28/12/2015 20:12:54 |
![]() 1779 forum posts 1 photos | The rule about only adding acid to water applies if you are starting with concentrated acid. This stuff is pretty nasty, much heavier than water and more viscous. I see no reason why any engineer should buy concentrated acid, when the dilute stuff is so readily available, and so much easier/safer etc to handle. It should be possible to buy battery acid - which is dilute sulphuric - from your local tyre & battery depot. Just remember that battery maintenance involves adding - dare I say it - water to acid ... ! Cheers, Tim
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John Lintorn | 19/08/2016 09:50:20 |
![]() 66 forum posts 56 photos | Hi guys! Being new to all this and seeing some of the really nice finished boilers, I get frustrated when, after soldering I put my boiler in the pickle solution (and I have tried dry acid from glr, dishwasher descaler, and household kettle descaler) it come out still black and grimy with some flux still attached. Sometimes I feel like using a pick axe because the stuff is still so hard. I am using easy flow flux so what am I doing wrong? |
julian atkins | 19/08/2016 10:10:04 |
![]() 1285 forum posts 353 photos | Hi John, My procedure is to carefully insert the boiler or sub assembly into dilute sulphuric acid when hot but after it has cooled down quite a bit. If the copper does not come out sort of dirty pink there is something wrong with your acid - it may not be strong enough or it may be contaminated. The boiler is then hosed down with the garden hose. The boiler then gets transfered to the domestic draining board and scrubbed with hot soapy water. It is surprising what extra muck comes off at this stage. Flux - firstly you are using the wrong type of flux anyway for boiler work. Due to the longer heat ups J&M Easyflo flux will be exhausted too quickly. Also depending on what grade silver solder you are using you need a more active flux anyway. So instead use J&M Tenacity 4A, or Thessco F flux, or the equivalent grade supplied by CupAlloys. To remove glass hard deposits of flux J&M recommend soaking in a hot strong solution of Sodium Hydroxide/Caustic Soda. It is very cheap and available from Wilkos etc. Do this after the pickling, rinsing, and scrubbing stages. You may need to pick about at the flux deposits a bit with a dental probe or scriber. Cheers, Julian Edited By julian atkins on 19/08/2016 10:11:41 |
Brian H | 19/08/2016 10:32:09 |
![]() 2312 forum posts 112 photos | I use a 5% solution for pickling copper etc. It is slower in action but at least parts do not come out lacy! I keep mine in a plastic tub intended for do-it-yourself beer brewing. The lid is a really tight snap-on one that does not leak. The container should be marked with labels to explain exactly what is inside. DO NOT use used battery acid as it will contain lead that will seriously contaminate anything dipped into it.
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Martin Kyte | 19/08/2016 10:39:55 |
![]() 3445 forum posts 62 photos | The idea of adding concentrated acid to water instead of the other way round is when you get a splash it's dilute acid and not concentrated. Martin
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Glyn Davies | 19/08/2016 11:00:18 |
146 forum posts 56 photos | Herbert's post brought back chemistry lesson memories: Poor old Joe, he's gone below His face we'll see no more For what he thought was H2O was H2 SO4. and Nitrous oxide, we must know Is laughing gas, haha hoho To get some, haha hehe Heat NH4NO3
DH, Roundhay School, 1966 Edited By Otley on 19/08/2016 11:02:11 |
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