Member postings for Peter Krogh

Special made internal wrenches, but I can't imagine what for!

Pete

Rust blueing is the process of producing rust then brushing it off (carding). The first few cycles won't leave much finish but about 6 cycles starts to produce a blue. A dozen or more makes the deep, hard, blue seen on old Mausers and such. Takes about a month minimum to produce that fine finish.

Rusting solutions vary and can be found in many old books on the subject.

Pete

Well, I learned, blacksmithing, that an iron box with a snug lid ( didn't need to be super sealed) packed with leather trimmings with the object in the center and heated to a bright yellow and held there for a couple of hours would put a nice case, about .020" thick on flint lock parts very well. Learned the method 50 years ago from a very skilled gunsmith. Large parts would obviously need large equipment of which I am quite naked.

Have fun, try things!

Pete

Exactly what I think when I hear about "reaching out..." !! I guess the new crowd think our old language isn't sufficient any more...

Well said, Hopper!

300 mm is a very large drill!

I really like to see someone cut loose and just build right out of their brain. Outstanding fellow! Just do it....

Air consumption is dependent on pressure and air passage sizes. 50 years of messing with media blasters has taught me that high pressures and big nozzles aren't at all required for most work. It's surprising how much air and media will go through a 2.5mm hole at 40 psi! My compressor is 2 HP and like 9 cfm @ 100 psi. If I recall correctly.

One just needs to take more time....

Pete

Sorry for the units mess....

De-burring reamer for pipe.

Pete

The Austinetic stainless steels (3XX) are hot short. Meaning they fail when bent hot. The granular structure disintegrates, literally. These steels are best bent cold. They are readily annealed similar to copper but must not be quenched. If the severity of the bend is required then the area to be bent must be brought all the way up to forging temperature, way above the hot short zone. Don't put any bending stress on the steel in the transition zone next to the hot zone as this area is hot short!

Learned a few things professionally mashing metals around for these last 70 years. Many in error!

Cheers,

Pete

This thread brings up a question I've had: Can silicon bronze be used for boiler bushings, etc. ???

It machines very well.

Thanks,

Pete

Thank you, Neil and friends, for a most wonderful site. It truly has kept up my spirits not just this year but always.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!

Pete

95% tin, 5% silver melts at 430 F. and was designed for 3xx food grade soldering. It's very much stronger than tin/lead solder and doesn't fatigue fail. It also works perfectly for soldering copper, brass, steel, bronze, etc.

Very easy to use, wets out very nicely, and doesn't oxidize.

The flux is an acid liquid.

Both should be available at any welding supply store.

DO NOT confuse this with the tin/zinc solders sold for copper 'lead free' joins. Tin/zinc is a horrible solder!

Edited By Peter Krogh on 18/10/2020 21:03:50

The best tool I've found is a pair of well made toe nail clippers with edges that are truly flush and straight. The curved ones don't work as well. The edges can be gently worked under the head of the screw and will wedge the screw right out. With some care, drive screws can be removed without marking up the surface. If the flat sides of the edges are polished, and most clippers are, they won't mark.

I replace those things with screws or, on thin material like machinery cabinets, aluminum pop rivets.

Pete

Edited By Peter Krogh on 27/09/2020 22:01:08

A plane is defined by three points in space. Two points make a line.....

Getting the centers sooooo close that one could 'flip' the part between the centers and have exactly the same plane????

That's what face plates are for......

Pete

Very good, Neil and Bill! When one is isolating and caring for fragile family, things can be a bit lonely as well as hectic. Knowing there is someone who is willing to share or listen is very comforting.

I don't think I'll call Bill as there is 8 hours time difference. Fortunately we have nearby friends...

Hang in there!

Pete

The ones on the right were hex socket (see the hex indent around the socket) and were double stroked in the press. Note the nice hex indent on that one then look at the dish dent on the Torx screw. If the hex socket had by some miracle jumped out of the hex header and into the input of the Torx header......

Double stroke. Press clutch issue.

Pete

My opinion, of course.

Don't drill for the exhaust until you've screwed it into place and marked which way it should point. No shimming to get the thing clocked.

Pete

Clive is right. Anodizing is an electrical process that "grows" aluminum oxide crystals on the surface of the parts. Unless otherwise specified the surface is then sealed by boiling in clear wax. This keeps dirt, etc., from penetrating and showing, and makes cleaning impossible. Soooo...

Whenever you will be painting the part, or for other reasons like brake rails, you must specify "Clear water seal." and you'll get the anodize minus the wax.

So to better the odds of the paint sticking: Clean the part perfectly with lacquer thinner and then boil the part in a water bath with a touch of soap. Probably won't get 100% but between the cleaning and the anodize texture the paint will surely stick. Better so if the paint is a solvent type.

I've designed and had built a ton of such parts and at one time could almost recite the MilSpec for most plating and coating processes. Oh that gives me a headache just remembering!

Pete

Ya think??? 

Pete

Edited By Peter Krogh on 17/08/2018 05:20:17