Best way to cut stock to size

I have an Evolution Rage 4 cut off saw, I have used it to cut mild steel section for machine stands. Very noisy and hot metal chips everywhere but it did the job well enough. I tried it once with stainless steel, the blade lasted a few seconds. Regards, Michael.

By the way for those strangely doing this sort of thing inside you are allowed to build a car port structure (in UK) without planning permission up to garage size and can be out the back with no car access.

I have used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade for cutting 3mm plate lengthways,don't force the cut and patience is required .A word of warning about using angle grinders,not about safety but consequenses that have arisen from my use of the tool.I was asked by the client on site if I knew what was wrong with her window as it had become spotted and grainy.I didn't know.On another site I was cutting mesh close to the house and the sparks hit the window and the steel particles melted and stuck to the glass,which I had to replace at £400. Now I was aware of the dangers and what I had done to the first ladies window Which I peplaced for £80.Moving on to another extension I had to cut another lintel,the consevatory was 7mt long so I thought I would be safe,but The sparks had reached the far end helped by the wind and wrecked £650 worht of glass.Whilst cutting outside remember my experiences and make sur you have the sparks well away from any glass.

Frank

Bricky, I did exactly the same to our patio window, I thought I was far enough away too !!.😥

I have a friend who managed to embed the window in his workshop with steel and grit from using an angle grinder. but worse than that a chap I was working with set fire to the crutch of his overalls while using an angle grinder, luckily no damage to the important parts, it was his wedding the next day. Use the angle grinder, and for the long cuts clamp a bit of steel along the line, and use this as a guide.

Ian S C

I've been aware of these saws but never seen one

What thickness of solid round or square bar has it been known to cut ?

Bill

Bill, ive the one with the 350 mm disc and have cut many 2 inch mild steel bars on it. Take it easy, and they will cut just about anything. Very noisy though. With some juggling, I cut through a 6 inch square RSJ the other day.

A horizontal band saw is probably the most flexible option. It doesn't care what the size of the metal is providing it fits within it's capacity. Having said that though I have turned bar and things like that over to exceed the usual 4" depth. Many of them can also be used vertically by adding a small metal table.

Buy one of these and you will put a lot of your cutting needs to bed in one go. There is a thread some where on here where some on complained about how poor the cheap chinese ones are. Replies metioned what usually needs to be done - blade tracking adjustment and the fact that the blade needs to be rather tight. They use a spring to provide the downward cutting force. That may need adjusting on larger bars at the beginning and the latter parts of the cut. It may not cut dead square but will get close enough for quick use of a file on things like angle iron.

Frankly I wouldn't be without mine and many owners feel the same. They will also cut timber ideally with a coarser blade.

Chop saws are sometimes used now. Noisy and I have no experience of them. I'd be surprised if a cheap one is as capable as the above.

Bandsaws that can stand up to metal cutting long term tend to be rather expensive. Lots of cheap ones use cheap flimsy die cast supports for the blade guides etc. I bought a dewalt eventually. That was just cutting timber. The metal cutting thickness is severely limited.

Personally I would avoid very cheap angle grinders. Following the death of my mother I needed to chop up a stair lift into 3 sections to get it into a van. I bought a cheapy as I didn't have mine with me. I suppose it was running and cutting for maybe 15mins. On the last cut it burnt out, fortunately when it was more or less through. Another tool I wouldn't be without. Buy a decent one if you go this way. The can also be fitted with grinding wheels that are used face on - not on the edge. Also scratch brushes.

The other option is a reciprocating saw. At our level that is often a home made one. The best design I have seen is by Myfordboy on youtube. You could cut up the sections needed with an angle grinder. He also uses a circular saw on plate etc. It's one specifically intended for cutting metal. That could be rigged up as a table saw pretty easily.

As I see it the options that don't make much noise and are very safe and easy to use are the horizontal bandsaw or the reciprocating one. I don't like noise either. Sparks - well make sure they are flying away from you and use the guard.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 21/12/2016 10:18:03

I have a dual speed wood cutting bandsaw. I'm given to believe that if I put it in low speed it will cut aluminium alloy with a HSS blade. Anyone tried this? I'm wondering how long the blade will last!

Just a question - is it possible to cut aluminium with an angle grinder, or does it clog the disc?

You can get aluminium cutting discs for the 4" angle grinder- screwfix and other places

the 1mm ones are good for neat cutting but can and do flex

cheers

trevor

Vic I have used my old Rexon woodcutting bandsaw on aluminium, this is a bit of 3" square cut with it. Also does brass & bronze

Though now I have got a Femi 782XL which is easier and will also work vertically with the additional table that is avalable.

Cut this 2" EN8 in just over 2mins

And some 2x5 CI was no problem

Hi Mike, you can cut aluminium with an angle grinder, but most everyday discs do tend to clog up a bit and the cut is not very smooth. To get a good cut, you need a disc for cutting or grinding that is designed for aluminium, especially if you intend to weld the edge that you are cutting/grinding, but they are a little dearer and not every retailer sells them. There are some at this **LINK**

Regards Nick.

Thanks, guys. It's just that I have some 2 1/2-inch aluminium bar to cut into several pieces, and it's proving to be too tiring to hacksaw. A bandsaw would be ideal, but I don't have one - but I do have an angle grinder.

Not cutting but grinding. For aluminium, the discs designed for stone work without clogging.

Despite all the arguments against angle grinders they are very convenient and cheap. I have used the cheapest from B&Q and yes, they are not great quality but at £20 they are great value. I bought one and used it for six months and it burnt out. I had kept the receipt so I took it back and was given a replacement. That too burnt out after a few more months. I took that back and as there were none in stock I was given a refund. So what is there to complain about? One years free use of an angle grinder. That seems good value to me.

Chester and Warco both do cheap ones, not used one myself so will leave that to others

I am currently on my third cheepo 115mm angle grinder in 15 years. I have still spent considerably less than I would have, had I bought what the purists would call a "proper" machine. Considering the amount of use it gets and the fact that I am in my 70's it would not make sense to splash out on a top of the range piece of kit. It would be different if I used it all the time.

I tried a "rage"saw blade but I found it noisier than the angle grinder.

Edited By Anthony Knights on 02/01/2017 09:20:15

I always use angle grinders outside of my workshop,as the sparks and grit will cause lots of damage,my concrete apron outside the shed is a bit rust coloured,also keep any pets well out of the way as the flying grit can get in their eyes. Unless you are very strong and fit don't be temped to buy a big 9 inch grinder,they can be very dangerous particularly if cutting vertically ,had a couple of near misses one took a lump out of my trousers so its now at the back of the cupboard, they are safer when used horizontally at chest level with a grinding disc,its the cutting discs that can jam and jump out of the work.