Member postings for bricky

I always enjoyed Ally Pally and travelled from Grantham by train .I always took my bag for things that I needed or thought I did. I do miss it .The Spalding model engineering show was much needed in the East Midlands and was growing year on year but stopped ,which also upset me.I might go to the Midland Exhibition.

Frank

T&LM are listed on the lathes website is it one of them.I have a stub miller that is T&LM ?

Frank

I owned a model B Drummond which had had one owner and bought new for 13 GBP in 1920 I aqhired it as original with treadle ,it was stil a very accurate machine but and I made a nose piece to screw on top of the screw to take my Myford fittings.I needed the room so advertised it at 150GBP with no takers so I scrapped it for 20quid.I kept the full set of change wheels to use on a dividing head I made ,I still have the mandrel bearings and mandrel also the nose piece I made .If any one wants these items please contact me.

Frank

Hello Roger,I never tried to force fuel through the injector as the flywheel was to big for me to swing on the Myford.That is why I have come back to it as I was thinking smaller at 2" giving a 9" flywheel but having recieved a post from Graham Corrie at Alyn Foundry,he explained that he had problems with the injector at 3" scale.Unless an alternative can be had I can"t proceed.Thanks for any help you can come up with.

Frank

Thank you for replying Roger,I would like to make it in 1.5" scale or 2" scale but am unsure of how to make an injector small enough at these scales .Could you suggest one please.

Frank

I have wanted to build this since I retired 12 years ago.I got permition from the Museum for Lincolnshire Life to measure and photograph their engine.I was lucky to be given some drawings of the injector and pump.To decide on the scale I could make the engine I reduced the 4'6" flywheel to 3"scale and then made an injector at that scale to see if I could,I don't think I could make it smaller.But with a 13.5" flywheel it would be to big and the engine would be too heavy.I decided to build a Centaur and two of Brian Rupnows engines to get a feel for IC engines,I am now thinking of returning to the oil engine and wander if anyone can sugest a a way to make a smaller injector I am aware that it would not be to scale and 1.5" scale is now my aim.These engine were made in my hometown and my model engineering mentor actualy worked as a fitter on these before and after the first world war so I would like to be able to make one ,with advice from the members.

Frank

i live on a housing estate built by my onetime employer.That were built of block and clad with brick as was standard in the sixties .The estate was started in 64 and these houses will be standing for another 40plus years ,my house on the estate is 44 years old with no sign of any deteriation so, the only reason to go down the route of quick and cheap solutions is profit.I admire the modern rendering technique of housing but I don't think that it will out last as well as houses rendered in 1907 still with no spalling locally.If something works well why try to fix it.Building engineers used to work to a factor of ten so what whent wrong.Profit.

I too have nothing but praise for the companies mention by Howard ,they have all given me satisfaction .

Frank

I bought a large bore Myford at the final sale.I asked Chris More if he had a faceplate as it only came with a 3 jaw.He told me all stock was with with RDG.I told him I needed a collet chuck for it and he said he had one in his desk which he sold me for cash at 50 gbp when opened it it was a ER25 so I have made a ER32 screw on adapter for the lathe,I have thought about makeing another but ER 40. The Myford ER25 adaptor is on a backplate which is removable so a chuck adaptor can be fitted.

to late now but at 40mm a screed of sand and cement trowelled to a smooth finish would have been the answer and a harder surface would have been a granno screed trowelled but I am out of touch with modern methods having been retired for 12 years.But the old way is foolproof at that thickness.

Frank

I connected the fuel tank and the govenor and the engine runs so I will not bother with an elevated tank.

Frank

I connected the fuel tank and the govenor and the engine runs so I will not bother with an elevated tank.

Frank

I did feed the fuel by gravity with a bottle suspended and a plastic tube to the carb.Tomorrow I am going to try the fuel tank below the engine and see if that works if not I will build a fuel tank in front of the engine above the carb inlet .

frank

Hello Clive ,I can't remember but I think it was the sugestion that the induction was just after TDC ,the engine didn't start but it was other factors causing that.When I finally got all the bits tidied up I decided to have a go not knowing if the timing was correct but away it whent and ran evenly so whatever the gent who suggested the timing in the post got it right.I am sorry I can't be of more help as I have a terrible memory.

Regards Frank

I started building this engine about 8 years ago and could never get it to go.I put it aside while I built two Rupnow engines which fired first go.I returned occasionaly to the centaur but had no joy ,I got the exhaust valve to seat but fuel was being expelled through exhaust ,leading me to believe that the input valve wasn't seated.The other thing was that I had this valve sliding up the shaft which I should have been part of the shaft,this I corrected.After reading an article on the forum about centaur timing I changed mine to suit and today it ran for the first time.What a trial this has been all down to my faulty workmanship,now to get that peskey coffe cup hot air engine running.

Frank

I agree that the design was not good but I could see the potential to make the design work.My tool post has the tool holders sitting on the top slidebut the only thing I couldn't do with my idea was adjust tools to height.I made the tool holder as the original design but packed tools to height,once done the tool post worked well and was quicker to use than my cheap dickson style toolpost.The right side holder is used for boring and left hand turning and facing and when the holder is not in use I use a blank holder.My design is in my album if interested.

Frank

40mm would be ideal for laying granite (granno) concrete and give a very hard wearing surface and can be trowelled to a smooth finish.The firm i worked for always used granno where machinery was stood.

Frank

I use rubber baking sheets on the back of the mill crosslide ,it does not fold but is very flexible and does the job.

Frank

I bought a Ward 2A as it was availiable ,to turn the rear wheels on my 2" Burrell as the ML10 I had at the time couldn't acommodate them.It had a 5Hp single phase motor on it and when switched on, one had to creep the clutch in otherwise the whole house would shut down. When I had finished with useing it I advertised it in the local paper and a local firm came to try it,They bought it for what I paid for it 400gbp .I left them to load it on their lorry and we got a phone call as they were loading from a firm in melton who wanted it and wanted to give substantionally more than I had just sold it for.I had to tell them that it had gone.This was in 1986 so there must have been a use for it.

Frank

Tubes from a covid test kit could be used to apply small quantities of adhesive?I have been useing them for oil.

Frank