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Member postings for Vic

Here is a list of all the postings Vic has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Wera hand-tools
04/10/2023 13:20:00

They aren’t bad but not worth the premium in my view. The screwdriver bits in my set are showing signs of wear and they don’t get that much use. Some of the handles are a weird shape as well in my view.

Thread: Tramming your mill(/dril) head:A theoretical question-Idea came up
29/09/2023 10:50:22

Some years back I saw a redneck mill trimming device. It was a steel bar welded to a car disc brake then accurately turned down to fit a collet in the quill. You can guess how it works.
A guy at work told me another way, without the need for an indicator. After turning a point on one end put two short 90° bends in opposite ends of a suitable length of steel bar. The blunt end goes in the quill then you swing the bar left and right until the pointed end just touches the table at each end. He also suggested the use of cigarette papers. I used this method myself before I got a dial gauge.

Thread: New workshop, advice required!
27/09/2023 09:37:43

I’ve had two garage workshops and have to say working on a bare concrete floor is dreadful. I tried mats etc but they just trap swarf etc. I currently have a shed with an insulated floor and floor boards covered in plywood with floor paint. If I had to use a garage again I’d definitely cover the floor with boards or something.

Thread: Bolt or screw?
26/09/2023 18:41:31
Posted by JasonB on 26/09/2023 18:23:50:

A screw is threaded for it's full length.

Except when it isn’t laugh

Thread: Making aPolishing Mop "Tail"
26/09/2023 18:00:38
Posted by Bo'sun on 26/09/2023 16:35:20:

Hi Andrew,

Something else occurred to me. I'm not sure, but polishing mops may, to start with, have a parallel bore. A simple mandrel may work for you.

The beauty of pigtails is that the mops are self tightening up to a point and don’t require any tools for quick fitting and removal. The mops can also be made with a wide tolerance on the size of the bore and still work. It’s a concept that has stood the test of time.

26/09/2023 15:18:19

They are often called Pigtails. These folks self both left and right hand versions in a number of sizes.

**LINK**

Thread: Parallel Reamers?
25/09/2023 22:10:45
Posted by JasonB on 25/09/2023 18:33:28:

I almost always use machine reamers these days with plain shanks they will ream to within about 1mm of the bottom of a blind hole

Sounds good Jason, where did you get yours?

Edit: I’ve just bought a set online.  wink

Edited By Vic on 25/09/2023 22:20:28

25/09/2023 17:26:07

All my reamers seem to have a lead or taper to them on the end. This is of no consequence for most jobs but sometimes I need to ream a deep hole and the Parallel part of the bore isn’t long enough. Can you buy almost fully Parallel reamers for use as a second operation? Any links appreciated if you can TIA.

Thread: Project ideas
24/09/2023 10:48:11

Have a look at Jan Ridders work. He will supply one or two plans if you ask. I built one of his vacuum engines and found the plans easy to follow.

**LINK**

Thread: Milling Advice
23/09/2023 10:58:05

I agree with Pete. I get a great finish with a fly cutter. wink

Thread: Thumb screw
23/09/2023 10:54:11
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 22/09/2023 17:53:56:

Posted by Vic on 22/09/2023 17:46:06:

[…]

Unless the knob is well secured to the cap screw it will come undone on the first use. […]
.

.

Good grief !!

surprise

I thought that was what the ‘Retainer’ grades of Loctite * were specifically designed to prevent.

MichaelG.

.

*[similar products are available from other suppliers]

Do you have a link please Michael. It’s not something I’ve needed very often. The stuff I have is very old.

22/09/2023 17:50:36
Posted by John Hinkley on 22/09/2023 10:05:34:

Surely there's no need to go overboard on this? Just how much torque is a thumbscrew expected to apply? I would have thought that there was sufficient grip between the knurled part and the socket bolt by the application of Loctite or similar or press fit or even heat/freeze fit. But then, I've been wrong before and will, no doubt , be again.

Like Martin Kyte, above, I'd make it in one piece and then broach the socket afterwards if integrity is an issue.

John

I don’t, and I suspect many others don’t have the tools to broach hex sockets.

As a point of interest though can you show us the tools you use for this. I doubt I can justify buying half a dozen different size broaches but it’s still of interest.

22/09/2023 17:46:06
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 22/09/2023 14:35:21:
Posted by John Hinkley on 22/09/2023 10:05:34:

Surely there's no need to go overboard on this? Just how much torque is a thumbscrew expected to apply? […]

.

I couldn’t agree more, John … hence my first comment. yes

If you need to apply more torque; use the hex socket !

… I thought that was the whole idea dont know

MichaelG.

Unless the knob is well secured to the cap screw it will come undone on the first use. For me the hex socket is just there to apply additional pressure if/when needed. Most of the time I’d want the convenience of just using the thumb screw.

22/09/2023 13:01:28

I should add that I’ve not been overly impressed with the quality of the knurling on most of the High Tensile (Black) socket screws I’ve bought in the past. Poorly formed and not very deep. The exception to this were those manufactured by Unbrako and the straight knurling on them was a piece of art in comparison.

Thread: U Tube
22/09/2023 11:44:50

Clickspring makes some good videos but like many others I get fed up of him making small items of tooling and then not showing them in use.

Thread: Thumb screw
22/09/2023 11:34:40
Posted by Bill Phinn on 22/09/2023 00:20:00:
Posted by Vic on 21/09/2023 23:10:21:
I use mainly stainless ones though and I’ve never seen one that was knurled.

It must depend partly on the manufacturer. I have a large number of recently purchased M4, M5, and M6 stainless cap screws that have knurled caps, among others of the same diameter that are not knurled. Some of the knurled ones have a manufacturer’s mark: “THE”.

I think I’m right in saying that grade 8.8 cap screws tend not to be knurled, whereas the 12.9 ones do. I’m not sure about grade 10.9 ones, as I don’t have any I’m aware of.

I must have nearly a thousand cap head socket screws in M2.5, M3,M4, M5, M6 and M8 in stainless steel, some of them marked THE and none of them are knurled. I’ve actually never seen one before. I use mainly Kay’s, Boltbase and GWR. I should add that I generally only use Metric fasteners so perhaps that’s why?

21/09/2023 23:10:21
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 21/09/2023 22:21:18:

It may but if the 1/4 of the height not knurled is that at the bottom of the head, pressing it in might broach the hole to the o.d. of the knurling, so rather defeating the object.

I'd be inclined to tap the hole through the knob and screw the Allen screw into it with hard-setting thread-lock on both thread and knurled bit, ensuring none ends up on the working part of the shank.

Yes agreed, the bottom part of most high tensile cap head socket screws (that isn’t knurled) is the widest part. I use mainly stainless ones though and I’ve never seen one that was knurled. I think I tried knurling one years ago and pretty sure the attempt failed. Maybe it’s time I tried it again?

21/09/2023 19:07:35

I’ve often thought it might be handy having one with a hex socket in it for some projects but couldn’t think of a durable way of securing the two parts. How do you think this may have been done, just glued/thread locked together?

Thread: U Tube
21/09/2023 11:32:30

Oh, I watch Joe Pie as well as several others.

21/09/2023 10:49:36

Can I post a link? I like This Old Tony, and not just because he sounds just like Alan Alda! laugh

**LINK**

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