By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Independant 4 jaw chuck butchery

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Rik Shaw08/08/2014 10:48:46
avatar
1494 forum posts
403 photos

I have a 125mm independent 4 jaw chuck which came with my WARCO WM250-VF lathe. It is marked with a manufacturers initial "H". This chuck as you will know if you have one, is rear mounting but I would like to make it front mounting if it is possible.

I would like to use the existing threaded blind holes on the back as a guide and drill right through them and out to the front following which the front would be counterbored to take new caphead fixing screws.

I have spoken to two people at WARCO, the first one said the chuck would be to hard to drill (I don't believe that). The second asked me how much of a chance I wanted to take, I told him that I did not want to take any chance at all. His very helpful reply sarcastic 2 was "then don't drill it". I felt that that sort of reply is what you would expect from someone who doesn't know what he is talking about.

So I'll rely on the forum. Can I go ahead without causing internal damage?

Rik

Ian S C08/08/2014 10:58:23
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos

Rik, I would say that as long as it is easily drillable, you should have no problem. Ian S C

Gordon W08/08/2014 11:05:58
2011 forum posts

Just been playing with my 4 jaw,125 dia. Chinese made, M8 fixing. One fixing hole is right in line with a jaw screw so a no-go. Chuck body seems drillable and maybe the 3 holes can be re-positioned, maybe your chuck is different. I had considered fitting 3 drive dowels in the rear holes and drilling 3 smaller holes thru' from the front and tapping ,say M6, into the mandrel flange.

Martin W08/08/2014 11:13:40
940 forum posts
30 photos

Surely the easy answer to this is to strip the chuck down, plot where the holes you intend to drill are going and then establish if they are going to interfere in any way with the workings of the chuck. If in doubt don't proceed.

I can quite understand the response from WARCO and think it is quite reasonable as this is not something that I would expect them to have any knowledge of and is well outside of their remit. There is no reason why he/she should have any knowledge of what could go wrong if you decide to make a non standard modification to your chuck

Martin

JasonB08/08/2014 12:04:20
avatar
25215 forum posts
3105 photos
1 articles

Just had a look at the 5" that came with my 280 chinese charicters on lable, the 4 mounting holes are equispaced between the jaws so not a problem there and as there is no scrol etc like a 3-jaw can't really see what would be in the way. A quick file test suggests if it is hardened then it is only very slightly done.

Whats your reason for front mounting? going to use it on a rotary table or something

J

Clive Foster08/08/2014 12:46:51
3630 forum posts
128 photos

Safest to strip and check. Make sure there is room and depth for the counterbore to take the head of the socket screw. Hard to visualise a chuck that doesn't have room but we all know about ASSumptions. Its always the silly, "too obvious to check" stuff which gets me!

Many front mount four jaws have the fixings at about 1/3 rd to 1/2 radius from the centre rather than out on the rim. Leaving aside the big industrial A series mounting stuff is this just a different way of going about things or are there specific advantages and disadvantages relative to rimwards fixing which may be worth considering depending on the planned application.

Clive

Neil Wyatt08/08/2014 13:31:06
avatar
19226 forum posts
749 photos
86 articles

Hi Ric,

I don't want to sound unhelpful, but Warco's response sounds like that of a company who have been asked to replaced equipment damaged by customers who said 'I was only following your advice'.

If it works, do me short write up on what, why and how

Neil

Chris Trice08/08/2014 13:41:47
avatar
1376 forum posts
10 photos
There's not much to strip in a four jaw independent once the jaws and actuating screws are out. A photo would help but I can't imagine there'd be much problem in doing what you want to do. Burnerd 4" four jaws are front mounting. The body is likely to be cast iron or sometimes steel, both easy to drill. Any chuck that's more "exotic" won't be on a budget Warco.
Rik Shaw08/08/2014 13:47:59
avatar
1494 forum posts
403 photos

Thanks all for the mostly helpful advice. Jason, the idea as you suspect is to mount it directly on my 4 slot rotary table. Neil, if the job can be done I'll willingly do a short piece for you.

Rik

Edited By Rik Shaw on 08/08/2014 13:48:53

Gordon W08/08/2014 15:52:17
2011 forum posts

Have just had another look at my 4 jaw. The backplate is held on by 4 screws and carries the 3 M8 fixing screws. I t looks as if the backplate could be rotated to allow for thu' drilling.

David Colwill08/08/2014 17:12:07
782 forum posts
40 photos

I drilled some extra holes in a Chinese 3 jaw, I can't remember what for. It was a little on the tough side but nothing special. Use a good make of drill, preferably newly sharpened drill and you should be okay.

David

jason udall08/08/2014 20:27:08
2032 forum posts
41 photos
Since you will be stripping down the chuck ..you will won't you?... any of the moving bits will immediately become clear whether they would be intersected by the drill holes..

Good luck
Neil Lickfold09/08/2014 00:01:48
1025 forum posts
204 photos

There is carbide drills these days that will drill holes in steel to 58 Rc, failing that, it can be easily edm drilled also.

Neil

john kennedy 109/08/2014 08:12:50
avatar
214 forum posts
24 photos
Posted by Rik Shaw on 08/08/2014 13:47:59:

Neil, if the job can be done I'll willingly do a short piece for you.

Rik

I hope so. I've got the same chuck and would find that mod very useful for mounting on the RT..John

Emgee09/08/2014 09:08:40
2610 forum posts
312 photos

Hi Clive

Advantage of holes placed close to the OD of the chuck allow the front fixing chuck to be removed from a lathe with greater diameter workpiece still in situ as turned, thus ensuring concentricity of the part when the chuck is transferred for the next op on a RT or in my case a dividing head.

Emgee

Ian S C09/08/2014 11:11:46
avatar
7468 forum posts
230 photos

Rik, the only thing you need to look out for is the thickness of the casting between the jaws, as the back of the chuck is hollow, although the threaded holes from the back could be taken right through. There may not be enough metal in some parts to take the counter bore. Ian S C

Rik Shaw09/08/2014 17:03:46
avatar
1494 forum posts
403 photos

UPDATE:

Job done no problems.

Rik

4 jaw chuck.jpg

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate