Smaller/bench mounted milling machines

Hi - I'm getting prepared to start a Don Young 5" Black Five build and was wondering which bench mounted milling machines would be suitable? Ideally I'd like a quality product and don't mind second hand!

Btw - I'm planning on getting the laser cut loco & tender frames as a starting point - so what would suit this project?

Thanks

Page 814 in current issue of ME shows BCA 111 Universal Jig Boring and Milling machine - looks OK to me and only £2,950.

Rik

I've not seen that issue of ME and I don't recognise the 111 part. The BCA Jig borer I've seen though,whilst being a very nice precision machine, is I think rather on the small side for tackling a 5" gauge loco.

Norman

BCA Mk.3 [or Mk.III]

As I have mentioned before ... "small capacity but perfectly formed"

There is a very good write-up on the lathes uk site

It's great for light work on non-ferrous materials, but I don't think it best suited to work on a loco.

... Optimum choice; something heavier for the rough stuff, and a BCA for the finishing ?

MichaelG.

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Edit:  see TengaEngineering 

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 29/05/2014 22:00:16

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 29/05/2014 22:08:33

Thanks Michael

111 = Mk 3 - of course ! A Homer moment for me I fear - what can I say other than DOH. !!

Yes I would like one but I can't possible justify it.

Regards

Norman

You don;t actually have to have a milling machine. I think Keith Wilson originally made 5in Kings professionally with just a Myford.

You possibly need to decide on your budget and whether you are thinking in terms of a new machine or second hand or 'old iron'. Some of the people reading this will be itching to tell you that you must leave blah blah hundreds of pounds for tooling. however you only need one collet and one slot drill to start. You can always get more tooling later but you can't add on a bigger table etc so put 99% of the budget into the main body of the machine.

Hi Steven

I have sent you a PM

Bob Sims

There is a BCA mk3 on an internet auction site for under £700, it needs the table tee slots repairing but would be a good little machine and has some collets with it as well.

I use its predecessor, the Boley & Leinen jig borer, it is a superb little machine, but I do have an Alexander Toolmaker as well for the bigger jobs.

Phil

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It's worth looking at that one just to see how much damage it is possible to inflict upon tee slots.

There has been discussion on another recent thread, about clamping techniques ...

MichaelG.

A vertical mill should have a dovetail column, not a round one, for best results. Colin

That VMB in this sites classifieds would fit the bill.

J

Thanks for the replies. A few things to think about - any opinion on the Warco range? WM18 or even the WM14?

Or there is always the Warco GH models, if it was me I would opt for the biggest machine I could as it reduces the B U double G rrrrrrr it doesn't fit. Small jobs on big machines can be a small challenge but not as bad as big jobs on a small machine. It really depends on Budget.

If you have the room on the floor there is always this one on Flea bay **LINK**

Bob

Steven - Don't forget the WM-16. This is the one I have. I would have gone for the WM-18 but it would not fit in my matchbox sized workshop. I have had it since last summer and although its cheap and cheerful it has generally been OK. If pushed hard the motor runs very hot, you will know by the smell of burning - that's the time to stop and give it a rest. This applies to my Warco bandsaw as well. Its an inconvenience but I'm not in a hurry these days.

I'd recommend having DRO's fitted if your pocket will stand the strain - makes life easier for those jig boring type jobs.

Rik

Steve

Like Rik I have the WM- 16, would have also liked to have gotten the WM18 but size (workshop would 'just' have taken it) & the few extra quid needed prevented me getting that model. So far it does all I ask of it, the gearing is a bit noisy but what Chinese mill / lathe gearing isn't? it can be quietened down with a bit of judicial tweaking ( or belt drive conversion) so unless I'm silly & put some stupid doc's on it I don't intend fiddling with it .. 'if it aint broke.. don't fix it' is my mantra.

I have fitted X & Y axes DRO's on it (look in my album pics for fitting), well worth the money doing it if you can,certainly takes away the discrepancy of backlash.

George.

Hi everybody.

Can I go back to the begining on this thread and ask some advice

Im wanting to replace my worn out bench drill with a bench milling machine eventually adding DRo and maybe

a power cross feed Im not sure about CNC.

Ive looked online at the adds and it boils down to 4 machines

Sieg Super X2 Plus £595.00

Seig Super X3 plus £1400.00

Chester Machine Company

conquest mill super £547.00

Champion mill 16v £620.00

Champion Mill 20v £836.00

I realy like the sieg SX3 but the price is bit off putting I might be able to stretch that far.

Im just not sure about the chester machines I cant find anything on those.

The reason for using the mill as a drilling machine is that I have visulaproblems with my right eye and using a dro one I find the edges which I can do easily its just a matter of moving the table to get to where I want to drill or mill

I dont have a massive amount of room in the garage so a realy big secondhand machine is out of the question

Any suggestion would be gratefuly received.

Cheers

Neil

Hi Neil, I have had a Champion 20V for about 3 years and no problems whatsoever.

The Centec 2B has become increasingly sought after with correspondingly higher prices in the few years that I've had mine; lathes.co.uk explains why.

Neil;

You have asked a good question.

1) I have a Centec 2B, nice machine. But:

2) Recently sold my pillar drill (drill press) and am in the midst of converting a new mill to CNC.

Look for G0704, mine is a King Canada KC20-VS.

The (very good) research machine shop at work does not have any manual mills (think they got rid of their last one recently) as anything they want, they just do via conversational programming on a CNC, or run a CNC program.

I've been doing more and more CNC; I think it really is the way to go.

I don't know if I'll be missing my pillar drill, but I doubt it - but we'll see how the KC20VS works as an everyday machine.

I do have some stuff on my blog - **LINK** which may be of interest.

Is the construction of the KC20VS as good as the Centec? Nope. Is it OK? Most likely.

JohnS.

Neil - reading Magpie's reply and googling - I think the Champion 20V is the same mill as I have; it is name-badged by many sellers.

Some have smaller tables, like the "BusyBee" CX600, I went with the longer table.

The CNC "kit" is going fine, with some issues, but no show-stoppers. Just have to get my angle-grinder back from a friend so that I can do some clearance work on the underside of the table... (this will be my 3rd CNC machine, btw)

JohnS.