Angle Measurement in the Workshop

What is the most useful means of angle measurement when setting up in the workshop?

Is a bevel protractor necessary or is a combination set or even a digital angle gauge the way to go?

Thanks,

Roy

Hi Roy I don't have a bevel protractor and have always found a simple angle gauge or the head in the combination set adequate. I do have a digital angle gauge which was a free gift with something or other, I think, and I have used this successfully when setting the table of my ( woodworking) bandsaw. It might also have utility in the metalwork " section" as it seems reasonably accurate. I guess what you use will depend on the accuracy you need and the convenience of use.

Norman

Edited By NJH on 18/09/2013 17:49:43

Hi Roy.
You can use a sine bar . the drawback is you need a set of slips. Having said that its accurate
I modefied a vice to a sine vice . Nobby

I hadn't thought of a sine bar!

I have a set of slips. I also have a sine bar that was made by a friend as a toolmakers apprentice piece. I assume he made an accurate job of it.....

It all seems a bit of a fiddle though and not easy to use on my weeny Centec!

A smart mod, by the way.

Roy

I use the digital Wixey most of the time now when setting work at an angle in the mill vice. I've also got one of the Precision Venier protractors that ARC sell which is handy when marking out.

J

A well equipped workshop needs all the methods of angle measurement to be available.

I've got a Wixey angle gauge, bevel protractor, combination set, slip gauges and sine bars, some angle gauges made by my father as an apprentice exercise and some ground angle blocks. I don't use any of them every day, but the only one I rarely use is the combination set.

Regards,

Andrew

Likewise, but I have a sliding bevel set to help......

Love the Wixey. Very useful. Cheap too. Even bought the guys at work one.

Bri

Hi
I supose you could use a M&W protractor wihout the rule a a clinometer . but the machine would have to be level ?

Nobby

Edited By Nobby on 18/09/2013 22:46:28

When I don't need the accuracy of a sine bar I use the Wixey. I seldom need to use the sine bar.

The only problem with the Wixey is that it eats batteries. When I've finished using it I remove the battery - it lasts months that way.

Hi Jason,

If the mill wasn't leaning to the left by 8 degrees, the wixey might prove even more useful

Nei

I use a Wixey and get the feeling the resolution is a lot better than the accuracy, and the battery issue is a bit of a pain. Removing the battery is one answer but is easy (for me anyway) to forget. My digital calliper runs for ages on a battery so it must be poor electronic design that makes the Wixey eat batteries.

Doug

| .."so it must be poor electronic design that makes the Wixey eat batteries."

That's not my experience. I've had mine for, probably, two years and I only changed the battery for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I don't use it very often but mine doesn't seem to use battery power when it's switched off .

Norman

.

Regrettably, that's a common problem with digital devices.

Original post asked about "most useful" ...

I suppose there are two answers to that, depending on your interpretation of "useful"

1. Quick'n'Dirty ... use a Protractor, or a Wixey

2. Accurate ... use a Sine Bar, or a Clinometer.

Vintage Hilger & Watts clinometers [Pendulum, or preferably, Bubble type] appear on ebay quite frequently; sometimes at a reasonable price. They're rather bulky for regular use in the Workshop, but you can always use one to check a setting-template for the machine.

MichaelG.

I have a small sine bar (picked up somewhere along the way) which I have only used once. I don't have any slip gauges but it's quite possible to turn a cylindical gauge and use a mic to get it near enough to the required size. I seem to remember I had to do some math but as it's not an everyday occurance, it was no big deal.

I now have a Wixey (subscription gift from ME?) but have again only used it a few times. What I do tend to use much more often are homemade steel "angles" (e.g. for setting up grinding work or for setting up work in the vice). These are simply marked out using simple trig and cut and stamped with the angles. Once made, they will last forever if looked after. A Hex bar is also useful, a large 6" length bolted on the faceplate is good for cutting small dovetail side pieces for instance. I've posted a photo for anyone who has not tried this Martin Cleeve inspired method! (with a few more in my album).

I've also the (older) 5C/ER32 square and hex holders - these get used quite a bit too. So I guess the question is how often are you going to need to cut "unusual" angles?

Regards,

IanT

Edited By IanT on 19/09/2013 10:20:24

Edited By IanT on 19/09/2013 10:26:57

Neil

I beg to differ NOT 8deg but 6.36 deg ! What's more does a mill have an opinion that would lead it to "lean to the left"?! ( Sorry just got up and still in silly mode)

N

I can't remember if my angle gauge is Wixey or not, and cannot look as it's on loan to a client. When I bought mine I measured the current consumption and posted the results on the forum. When running it took 82µA and 'off' it took 6µA. It uses an AAA battery so life time should be 5 years plus.

I've got a rather nice Hilger and Watts clinometer, altough not bought on Ebay. Last time I used one in anger we were trying to set up the wings on a Tiger Moth. The top and bottom wings have different sweepback and different dihedrals; I think the angle of attack was the same. With four flying wires and two strut wires every time you alter one wire everything changes. If you're not careful you can end up chasing your tail.

Regards,

Andrew

Having a 3 axis ( actually a 4) DRO I can use that to set up angles when it must be accurate, Also a sine bar and bevel protractor. I have a wixey that I am not happy with and a M&W protractor for very rougth work if I must, If I have repetition work I would make a specific angle block for setting, but still check it.

Mike W - re. batteries - considerable difference between makes and the definite no-nos are the packs of 40 from the Pound Shop type outlets. These are OK for hearing aids and similar but deteriorate very quickly in 'our' sort of use. Good quality versions (Varta etc,) are available cheaply on-line, so no point in using the 'cheap and cheerful' variety.

Rgds

Bill

Hi
Over the years I have made angle blocks for quick setting & repetion work on the mill ect as KWIL said.    I have never used a Wixey i will look into it ?
Regards Nobby

Edited By Nobby on 19/09/2013 13:01:47