michael burton 1 | 03/02/2012 20:14:10 |
126 forum posts 32 photos | as some off you will know i asked about the pistons being packed with graphite yarn and to be honest im not sure if i have it right as per one off the reply your right it is a black art, so i have orderd some new gunmetal and some o-rings could one of you helpful people explain the method for the fitting o-rings and any tips or guidance
thank you all your all so helpfull many thanks mike
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Wolfie | 03/02/2012 21:53:53 |
![]() 502 forum posts | Watching this with interest, I went for O rings straightaway but haven't got round to that part yet. |
Jon | 03/02/2012 22:01:28 |
1001 forum posts 49 photos | Not sure on what your trying to do. There are guidelines and tolerances for the machining part. I would however ignore they wont last as long if acting as a moving part. The idea of an o ring is to seal something off, that could be on a cylinder bore and a piston. A certain amount of compression is needed, no compression =no seal. Books will state clearance in certain areas, meaning a degree of force is needed before the o ring would seal. Easy fool proof method is to machine the groove, fit the o ring and do a trial and error fit. If too tight, take a tad more off. Often better to expand upon the bore of an o ring rather than have clearance. |
michael burton 1 | 03/02/2012 22:50:34 |
126 forum posts 32 photos |
i was thinking the trial and error method il machine the groves till theres a ittle compresson i guess ike you would have if you coverd one end of a outlet on a air ram?
wiv the graphite yarn pistons that are in the model at the mo when a steam port is coverd you get a restiance and if you slightly leave the port uncovered a smidge u get a nice sucking blowing sound mayby this is right already hmmmm whats your opinions on this?
sorry if this sounds stupid but in terms of loco building im a complete newbie iv built osscilaters an open crank 2 stroke demo model to my own crankcase deign and other parts for other hobbies and a battery loco built out of a 3 1/2 in gauge tich chasiss but this is my first proper venture down the steam avenue so am learning as i go on so all help is greatffuy received
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JasonB | 04/02/2012 07:38:04 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Get a copy of "Model Engineers Handbook" the tables in that give sizes specifically for our use on pistons as well as the usual type seals.
I assume your cylinder is lapped otherwise you will soon ware the o ring away.
J |
Russell Eberhardt | 04/02/2012 10:04:17 |
![]() 2785 forum posts 87 photos | Posted by JasonB on 04/02/2012 07:38:04: Get a copy of "Model Engineers Handbook" the tables in that give sizes specifically for our use on pistons as well as the usual type seals. I agree. It's a very useful book by "Tubal Caine" and full of indispensable info. Regarding the "O" rings, There shouldn't be any "nip" between the bottom of the groove in the piston and the bore as suggested by some. This will just give excessive wear. The bore should be exactly the nominal OD of the ring. This will give slight compression of the ring. There should be less than about 5 thou diametrical clearance between the piston and bore to prevent the ring from extruding between the bore and piston. The depth of the groove should be sufficient to give a slight clearance to the ring, just a few thou deeper than the ring section. The groove width should be about 10 thou greater than the ring section to allow movement. The seal isn't produced by pinching between bore and piston. The steam pressure pushes the ring against the side of the groove to obtain a seal, hence the necessity for the groove to have some side clearance. However, don't believe me, get Tubal Cain's book. Russell. |
Tel | 04/02/2012 10:35:40 |
![]() 157 forum posts 28 photos | ... and if you think graphite yarn is a black art, just wait til to try o rings. |
Another JohnS | 04/02/2012 19:25:58 |
842 forum posts 56 photos | When I built my little Tich...
1) The valve and piston spindles had "O" rings on them. I made a "D" bit and cut them out, with a little covers to keep the rings in - flat bits of brass, with screws into the covers. (i.e., not the usual "screw in" graphite yarn packing. It was easy.
2) When I made the pistons, made the rings too tight (so I thought), so I put graphite yarn on. A few years later, my little rich had trouble on some of the steeper grades, so I took her apart; found out that one piston was sans packing, and the other almost clear! I dug out the "O" rings, put them on, put her back together, and the performance was great.
As others have said, you want a bit of "drag", but not too much; and you want the groove width about 1.5x the ring diameter, so it has a bit of slide and expansion.
"O" rings are great - I'd not bother with the packing, but they DO require a bit of forethought.
Another JohnS.
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michael burton 1 | 04/02/2012 22:13:49 |
126 forum posts 32 photos | o rings in slight drag a hiss hiss sound when moving along the floor and rolls nicley so mayby i cracked it, i did test and trim approch as the previous builder of the model machined so many parts at differnt sizes to each other etc. this was the only way to ensure that they both would do the job
many thany thanks for the replys
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Mark P. | 05/02/2012 12:19:32 |
![]() 634 forum posts 9 photos | Wolfie,don't know if this is any good to you but have a look at this http://www.marcorubber.com/sizingchart.htm might be of some use.
Regards Mark P. |
richard orr | 17/09/2013 17:41:33 |
16 forum posts | Have read that it is ill advised to use graphite rope packing for piston rings when used in a cast iron cylinder. Am wondering if this is true in all applications across the board or weather it's use is possible in a large , low pressure , low r.p.m. steam cylinder application where the cast iron cylinder could be highly plished? |
Stub Mandrel | 17/09/2013 21:32:42 |
![]() 4318 forum posts 291 photos 1 articles | Hi Richard, Graphited packing worked well on small engines (bigger ones have almost always used metal rings) for nearly 200 years. then decent temperature-stable o-rings were invented. thou o-rings generally seem to work better, there is no reason why graphited yarn won't work but beware excessive piston clearances that could blow it out in no time. Neil |
richard orr | 18/09/2013 03:30:56 |
16 forum posts | The cylinder I am using to build up a grasshopper steam engine is 12" bore dia. Am wanting to get as good a seal as possible in order to maxamise condensing vacume. O rings seem prefferable but would they hold up in a cast iron application? Will be steaming with graphite introduced into the steam line.Also, I am thinking graphite packing would tend to burnish cylinder where as am thinking o rings might score cylinder if particles in steam are taken up. Edited By richard orr on 18/09/2013 03:37:05 |
Stub Mandrel | 18/09/2013 09:57:30 |
![]() 4318 forum posts 291 photos 1 articles | Hi Richard, As long as you aren't using superheat (unlikely for a beam engine!) then o-rings ought to last. Yes graphited yarn is said to improve the finish, but I can't speak on o-rings causing scoring. Neil |
OuBallie | 18/09/2013 10:35:01 |
![]() 1181 forum posts 669 photos | On a slightly different tack, but still about sealing cylinders: Wasn't there an article in ME moons ago about using PTFE rings to virtually eliminate friction, but backed by 'O' rings to provide the needed pressure against the cylinder walls? Didn't René Etter of RSME, experiment with PTFE and found that it creeped if not suitably contained. If memory serves, he did overcome the tendency of that material to creep by containing it, only allowing a small amount to 'show', but I cannot remember if he was using it for rings or 'D' valves. Geoff - Bad day today so no workshop. |
Ian S C | 18/09/2013 12:06:51 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Piston rings made from sheet PTFE would give good low friction, these type of rings are used in car shock absorbers, and I'v pulled a good few of those to bits, and they never seem to be worn out. When I rebuilt the Stuart S 9 earlier in the year I thought of using teflon, but decided that as I had some cast iron, I used that. Ian S C |
richard orr | 18/09/2013 14:33:56 |
16 forum posts | The engine is indeed a 12" bore. double acting steam cylinder. ( Quite a story to my finding it ) It is going into a large sidewheel steamboat that I have been building over the past 14 years. The primary power will come from pressure rather then vacume. However, with a cylinder of that diameter, there is a ot of power to be gained from vacume also I cut off the steam box and will use the D valve port face to make a type of poppet valve for the exaust that will also serve as a water slug relief port . Intake will be through bored out water drain valves. Intake pressure will be 30 p.s.i.g. expanded down to 10 p.s.i.g. R.p.m. will be from 80 to 120. |
Ian S C | 19/09/2013 13:37:50 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | I think you could make a ring from PTFE(maybe bronze impregnated), a strip of sheetthe thickness of the required ring, and cut to the width, the joint would be best if it were stepped. For even lower friction, carbon impregnated PTFE is available. Ian S C |
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