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Double thread T- nuts

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Wolfie26/01/2012 10:41:58
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502 forum posts
Is there any reason why I can't drill and tap t-nuts say M8 and M6 a couple of mm either side of the centre thus making them dual purpose?

Edited By Wolfie on 26/01/2012 10:42:23

JasonB26/01/2012 11:15:12
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Cant see why not if the nut is a bit longer than standard so the holes are not right at the ends
Ady126/01/2012 12:40:35
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With my own t-nut slots there wouldn't be enough room for 2 threads, and it would strip.

Specially hardened metal might work...but then the nut would probbly strip...
 
To me. T-slots only look wide enough for a single threaded nut.
JasonB26/01/2012 13:20:34
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I thought the two holes would be side by side in a longer nut eg the holes will be along the Y axis not front to back on the x axis?
 
 
J

Edited By JasonB on 26/01/2012 13:25:16

Terryd26/01/2012 13:26:22
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Hi Jason,
 
That was my impression, the proposed holes would be longitudinally along the nut, not across. I don't see a problem with that as long as the nuts are made longer than standard. In fact it's such a good idea which I'd never thought of, I might make a few to try them out. Never to old to learn new tricks, it's only old dogs who can't .
 
Thanks Wolfie
 
Best regards
 
Terry

Edited By Terryd on 26/01/2012 13:27:06

NJH26/01/2012 13:46:03
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Terry
 
I must disagree with you in the strongest terms - I can assure you it is quite easy to teach an old dog new tricks. The games I play with my Staffie get ever more complicated - they are all based around ways that she can get biscuits!
 
Wolfie
 
That's one of the best examples of lateral thinking I've come across recently.
 
Regards
 
Norman

Edited By NJH on 26/01/2012 13:46:47

Ady126/01/2012 14:52:20
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I don't have the family braincell this week...
 
Looks like a neat idea
Gone Away26/01/2012 14:54:31
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On the subject of misinterpreting the original question, the picture that first popped into my mind was two threads in the same hole. M6 at the bottom of the T-nut; M8 at the top.
 
Next thought was: assuming there's enough thread length anyway (iffy), will an M6 stud pass through the M8 section. Probably not but if both threads were 1-mm pitch it might work anyway, (Don't know what thread pitches are used on metric studs - it's all unc around here).
 
Then I saw Jason's interpretation.
 
Duh! (.... although ..... still kind of wondering whether the dual axial thread might work. Nah, thread depth issue would surely kill it ....)

Edited By Sid Herbage on 26/01/2012 14:56:30

colin hawes26/01/2012 17:53:28
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Make sure you can get a longer nut into the T slot! There is not enough space on my minimill.
Colin
Wolfie26/01/2012 18:33:23
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Jasons diagram is exactly what I meant.
 
The reason I ask is cos I made a row of mine over long cos I cocked up the measurements but now I have need of some M6 ones so I plan to simply drill and tap them M6 as well as M8.
 
I'm fairly sure you can have them at the end if you like cos Harolds milling book shows some T-nuts with rounded ends to use in an angle plate and the hole is close to one end. See Milling Course book p38.
chris stephens26/01/2012 19:31:41
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One up to me, I knew what he meant straight away.
I have the opposite problem, I had to make loads of various sized "T" nuts, all with the same thread, for the different bits of machinery in the engineerium. I'm too mean to buy more than one set of clamping gear.
For those who wish to make their own, brass or bronze works quite well enough.
chriStephens
Stub Mandrel26/01/2012 20:51:28
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What went through my mind were two overlapping holes!
 
Sounds agood idea to me, although they need to be shorter than the drawing or you might as well just cut them in half.
 
Neil
JasonB26/01/2012 20:56:32
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Yes I drew it a bit elongated. I should think around 3mm at each end and 2mm between holes so that gives a total length of 22mm (3+8+2+6+3)
 
J
steamdave26/01/2012 21:02:14
526 forum posts
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Posted by colin hawes on 26/01/2012 17:53:28:
Make sure you can get a longer nut into the T slot! There is not enough space on my minimill.
Colin

My sentiments exactly. My Wabeco mill has very limited clearance at the end of the table to get Tee nuts in. Certainly not enough for MiteeBite type low profile clamps.

Dave

The Emerald Isle

BERTO27/01/2012 04:04:40
46 forum posts
I ended up making some low profile clamps as per what Harold described in his milling book and as they require the holes to be tapped 8mm i needed some reduced thread studding to clamp them down to the table using the std tee nuts
I ended up with stud with 10mm thread x 12mm long then machined down to accept a 6mm thread to fit through the 8mm hole it the clamp .
If my bloody nuts had two different sized holes i would not have needed to fart around making these!
Top idea Wolfie and now all of the tee nuts i make will have a smaller size thread on one end so i can use my clamp kit for my X2 on my larger mill = double the versatility !
 
Ian
Springbok27/01/2012 04:35:03
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Great idea but the gap at the end of the chester626 due to it being a part of the coolant tray of the bed I would not be able to get them into the slots.
Thor 🇳🇴27/01/2012 06:32:26
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Hi Wolfie
 
I have used T-nuts similar to JasonB's sketch for several years. They work well. The length of the nuts is so that I just can get them into the T-slots of my Mini-Mill at the end where the handle is. If you need longer T-nuts on the Mini-Mill you can insert them from the other end of the table.
 
Thor

Edited By Thor on 27/01/2012 06:33:01

Speedy Builder527/01/2012 08:17:26
2878 forum posts
248 photos
Just a thought, my T nuts for the mill are different to those on the rotary table. How about making the ends of the Milling T nuts T shaped, so that one way round they fit the mill, and turn thro 90 degrees to fit the rotary table. Now that would be a 'Round Tuit' sort of job. - problem would be, how do you hold the round table down to the mill and then the work onto the rotary table - I know, make twice as many nuts - or have I gone nuts already !!
Gone Away27/01/2012 17:12:58
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I'm a little curious as to why one would want to do this in the first place. If your mill table slots are sized for M8 T-nuts and studs why would you care about M6? And if you have another device, say a small rotary table, whose slots fit M6 studs, the chances are that M8-sized T-nuts wouldn't fit it anyway. What am I missing?
 
I've considered making my own T-nuts in the past but frankly they are so inexpensive and time, relatively, so limited that I always come to the conclusion that that the time can be more profitably spent in other areas.

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