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Member postings for BERTO

Here is a list of all the postings BERTO has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

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Thread: course's
01/02/2012 01:35:10
Not wanting to turn any one away from gaining further education in what ever field they so choose but for that price i would want my own personal tutor ! and a total of 45hrs of tuition would not be enough for anyone except those who have at least a reasonable amount of experience to learn anything .
I did most of my welding trade through night courses and can highly recommend them but the trade off was that i still had to do time in industry to gain my 1E Ticket , that was after 2 years of courses and final exams ! and that was just for MMAW (stick welding ).
 
The minimum course they did at that time was 6 months long for basic skills and this was good for hobbyist and farmers etc who want to be able to knock up a set of gates or brackets etc .
Not sure about the U.K. but here training courses are tax deductable .
 

Thread: One screw two directions, same time
01/02/2012 01:04:34
The screw thread looks an awfull lot like an Archimedes screw to me .
I could be wrong but the level wind on my overhead fishing reel has something very similar to move the line across the spool as i wind the handle .
Thread: Milling - difficult to gauge exact cut
29/01/2012 01:59:44
Another thing is workpiece flex particularily if the piece being machined is thin or narrow- in that case lessen the depth of cut and if possible use a backing strip of heavier material behind the side that the cutter is rotating towards .
Look on youtube and you may find some footage of using a wiggler to find the edge of a worpiece .
 
Thread: think tank
27/01/2012 22:00:47
Bob ,if the magazine had a page in it extracted from the forum you could take a few old copies to Bolivia and catch up on some reading.
p.s take some photos , i always wondered what that place looks like .
 
It takes but a few minutes to scan the subject matter or title of the latest posts at the end of the day for something interesting .
I find that after tha first page of replies a suitable answer been submitted and by the second page the string has drifted away from the original question anyhow .
It was also asked why would i want to read something from the forum in the magazine if i had already read it online ?
Not all readers have access to the forum so miss out on some good question and answers , some may have similar questions but are afraid to ask or just don't have the means to access the wealth of knowledge and sometimes sillyness that is the MEW forum !
 
IAN
27/01/2012 04:39:00
Here is an odd ball thought for those who care to ponder .
What if MEW added a page titled best of the forum which would have the best questions and answers from the MEW forum each month/year?
I know it has the scribe a line section but they are asking the magazine directly .
Or maybe the best of forum per year as a seperate mag ,insert or similar.
Just a thought - insane as it might be !
Yes i know David that it will increase your workload but you must admitt there is some rippa stuff on the forum !
Maybe we could have a vote on the website each month/year for things we found the most interesting that would narrow it down to say the top 50 or so
 
Ian
 

Edited By BERTO on 27/01/2012 04:39:49

Thread: Double thread T- nuts
27/01/2012 04:04:40
I ended up making some low profile clamps as per what Harold described in his milling book and as they require the holes to be tapped 8mm i needed some reduced thread studding to clamp them down to the table using the std tee nuts
I ended up with stud with 10mm thread x 12mm long then machined down to accept a 6mm thread to fit through the 8mm hole it the clamp .
If my bloody nuts had two different sized holes i would not have needed to fart around making these!
Top idea Wolfie and now all of the tee nuts i make will have a smaller size thread on one end so i can use my clamp kit for my X2 on my larger mill = double the versatility !
 
Ian
Thread: Vernier vs Micrometer
27/01/2012 03:25:28
Hi Wolfie .
If you are not machining to a precision tolerance - say .001 or less then the digital calipers will serve you well and yes they do more than an outside micrometer can as they can measure the inside diameter , convert metric to imperial and visa versa they also measure depth or height .
The micrometer you have may be usable but some checks are in order !
Look at the anvil surfaces and and check to see if the edges are nice and sharp - if they are rounded they may be worn .
If it is a 0-25mm or 0-1 inch mic clean the anvils with some lint free cloth or similar then gently screw the thimble down until the two anvils just touch a hold it up to a light source to see if the anvils are parrallel(some people think they are small G clamps ) , also look to see if both line up along the axis .
If all is well it is probably ok and may just need some oil (starret )
You will need to check to see if it is set to zero at 20 degrees celcuis -using the ratchet if you have not yet aquired a "feel' for a micrometer and if you don't i recommend workshop practice series number 6 as it will explain all you need to know to get started using various tools for measuring and marking out and it is written by the venerable Ivan Law .
Actally i could recommend pretty much all of the WPS series as i have read 90+% of the series - they have served me well and i have learned much from them , the only regret i have is they were not around 30yrs ago when i was in high school as i would be better for it now !
But seriously 90% of the time i find i'm using my digital calipers and only pull out my micrometer set if i feel it warrants it and yes they are chinese !
Yes i know it's not a mityutoyo, m&r or starret but they do the job and they don't cost the earth .
 
Nicholas you are correct !
calipers - digital ,vernier or jenny.
micrometer- digital or vernier .
Calling digital calipers "digital verniers is like calling a calculator a digital slide rule !
the end result may be the same but different method of achieving it and don't anyone think that vernier caliper or height gauge is not accurate as in the right hands they are every bit as accurate as a digital set & sometimes even better if they have the "tenths" scale on them .
 
Ian
 

Thread: Storage of taps, dies, slot drills and end mills
27/01/2012 02:14:02
Hi Peter .
MEW issues 107 , 128 , 137 , & 140 have some ideas that may help you .
 
Regards..
IAN
Thread: How do I access my Digital MEW subscription?
20/01/2012 00:58:36
Sleazy ,
Are you sure your details were correct when you filled out the subscription form ?
Only takes a typo to stuff up on your E-mail adress.
 
Peter , i'm also in Australia but had no problem with the Digital subscription but couldn't get past the last page for the hardcopy version .
It just simply refused to let me subscribe saying something about delivery not available to this area so i went Digital and never looked back !
 
Christer , I puchase a lot of stuff over the internet using my mastercard and usually from the U.S.A.
Most of these websites ask for the three digit code , my name , address and of course card number and expiry date and the MEW site is no different .
They typically use a secure server for this and i have had no issues thus far but two rules i have with credit cards are :
 
(1) never ever let anyone take your card out of your hand unless you have a 100% view of what they are doing and even then i still insist on swiping the card myself even if i have to argue the point as it takes less than 2 seconds for them to run it through a card reader hidden under the counter run it through the eftpos machine and then watch you punch in your pin .
This is getting worse here in Australia by the day !
They then have everything to rob your account !
This happened to my friends next door neighbour at a fuel station nths ago, shame the fool that double swiped her hard did not realize she is a Detective !
OUCH !
 
(2) Get a visa debit card and only transfer to it what you need to make a purchase over the internet - hard for the thieves to buy stuff if it is an empty account !
 
IAN
 
 

Edited By BERTO on 20/01/2012 01:00:31

Thread: MEW 186, Best ever issue
19/01/2012 20:14:46
Posted by David Clark 1 on 19/01/2012 11:31:52:
Hi There
Some readers complain that no CNC content should be included as it is a waste of their money to get something they do not want to read.
regards David
 
 
When these readers get sick if reading another Myford article or have no need to build yet another toolpost maybe then they will turn thier attention to this type of mill or that type of lathe because they don't own that same machine or they are not interested in reading about it or the modifications/improvements that the writer had made to it . Where will they spend thier money then ?
 
The addition of CNC articles to MEW i think would broaden the horizons of the magazine a little but don't get me wrong in thinking that it means removing any of the articles for manual control machines or projects to suit them .
I was more or less inferring that an extra page or two could possibly be added to fit some CNC items in even if quarterly .
 
Also i remember MEW bringing out a workshop only special last year or the year before?
I wonder if there could be an oppertunity for something similar for the CNC advocates , not sure how well it would sell but.....
 
Another thing although being from another magazine and an entirely different feild of hobbies (electronics ) is a section in this magazine called servicemans log .
It is about the trails and troubles faced by an electronics service person and is interesting and sometimes comical to read .
I remember a few issues ago something similar in MEW , I think it was to do with an apprentice and thier early work history , it was enjoyable to read so maybe there could be some more of it if any of the readers have an interesting story to tell and how they solved some problem in the engineering , machining fields etc .
 
Just some thoughts ...
 
IAN
 

 
 
 
Thread: Magnetic chucks on lathes
19/01/2012 02:12:21
Not sure how thin you mean but have you seen Harold Halls thin piece collets ?
They were in his book Lathework a complete course WPS # 34 or you may find them in MEW or His website .
 
Ian.
Thread: MEW 186, Best ever issue
19/01/2012 01:54:12
Maybe there could be a full time or part time section in MEW for all things CNC ?
There is a lot to cover right from its early days to now and then there is the model engineering connection and how it is being grafted across from industry to our back sheds at an ever increasing rate .
I think the history lesson could be complimented with some practical projects that would help the reader eventually construct a full CNC system for thier own use and up on the machine of thier choice .
There is or seems to be a few CAD/CAM and CNC programmes available but how does a newbie work out what is best for them and thier budget ?
What PC is best ,what basic requirements are needed and what O/S is recommended ?
I'm sure there are many answers to thes simple questions and many more questions than that for readers to ask.
 
I do not own any CNC controlled machines at present but i still enjoy reading about what others are doing or have done to improve thier machinery and knowledge in this field .
 
Ian
Thread: Cleaning up castings
18/01/2012 04:02:55
Hi John .
I have in the past used a wood router (ozito) with the base removed to serve as a die grinder and it has plenty of power plus it is speed adjustable .
Not sure if all routers can have the base removed as mine clamps on and is very similar to an electric die grinder in shape with the base off .
The collet for this is 1/4 inch and my carbide burrs are the same .
Try the cheapest one you can find at the local hardware store .
 
Ian
Thread: Mill Misalignment
14/01/2012 10:45:05
Hi Neil.
Martin and John have had the same issue as i have had but mine was after a rebuild because i fitted a belt drive kit
This required the two halves to be split to remove the gears and to fit the sensor for my digital tacho .
I used an angle plate to test the alignment of the column by clocking it vertically then trammed as usuall .
I ended up leaving the head to dovetail screws loose enought so i could tap it with a plastic hammer to adjust then remove and tighten - thankfully nothing moved when i lifted the head off the column to tighten the bolts !
If you don't own a reasonably large angle plate clamp a parrallel to the one you have to extend its range or if you don't own an angle plate clamp the largest known good square to the table and clock the blade vertically .
Yes i know it is not as good as a precision cylindrical square but make do !
I suppose if i went insane enough to worry about it i could set the column up on my large mill and machine a locating step into the dovetail bracket and then do the same to the head to locate it parrallel to the column but thats another job to think about !
 
If your readings are in error in the Y axis try removing the column to base bracket and check for burrs or any debris between the mating surfaces - wouldn't be the first time gunk has been found under there !
 
Ian
Thread: Cleaning T slots
13/01/2012 21:22:31
Hi Wolfie .
There are two approaches to this .
1) let the swarf build up in the tee slots then drag them out with a tee slot cleaner or vacuum them up .
2) Stuff something into the vacant tee slots to stop the swarf collecting in there in the first place .
I found that if i'm only doing a small amount of machining to a part then i use the first approach but if i am removing a lot of material like cutting dovetails or deep slots i use some cheap garden hose or similar to fill the tee slots i am not using .
This takes but a few seconds to do ,makes the clean up much easier and the hose is re- usable { also works on lathe tee slots } .
Another thing i use is a small ice cream container {plastic type} to collect the swarf that i brush off the table , I just hold it under one end of the machine table them brush the swarf towards it - saves on having to clean up more from the floor .
A Vacuum cleaner{wet &dry is preffered } is a valuable item to have as this makes cleaning the remaining swarf that is left on the machine,bench and floor easy to collect and will suck out most of the swarf from the tee slots but i save this for the final clean up of the day .
 
Ian
Thread: Here we go - parting off
25/12/2011 09:27:31
Now this is something i have had probems with for a while and although i have not tested it to my standards i have found i hope some answers .
I f you look at most toolhoders for a parting tool they hold the tool so that one face is locked against one of the inside faces of the toolholder and this negates one of the side clearances so the tool is actually cocked to one side .
This now changes the other angles of the tool and making parting off even more difficullt than it should be .
I am currently using a rear toolpost to part off and while there are some pro's and cons it is convenient to have it there but it can get in the way sometimes .
If it jams it seems to lift the cross slide some what and i have tightened the Gib strips untill they are as tight as can be but allowing ease of movement of the cross slide but you can only go so tight .
I have not broken a parting tool in the rear position but have chipped one and it was 3/32 also but this was an exceptionally tough piece of steel .
One thought is to use my tool and cutter grinder to grind a hollow on the top cutting surface of my parting oof tool so the swarf is rolled in upon itself and thus narrowing the width of the swarf.

Ian
 
Thread: Types of metal
25/12/2011 07:53:50
Hi Wolfie .
I too am a wheel man and know what it's like to take an opertunity when it presents itself !
I recently aquired some scrap from work that was a retaining hook for a rear load rubbish truck and boy it is a tuff bit of metal !
I have now cut it to a usefull size then machined to make a piece for my tool & cutter grinder that i am building .
There are some basic test to see what you have using a grinder and looking at the colour of the spark and this is reasonable for testing between steel and cast iron as the spark will be different but there are many alloy steels around and maybe you have one of the work hardening type which will cause you no end of trouble !
You could always ask the people from the yard where you got it and maybe they won't mind you going back to check thier scrap bin - maybe you have sourced a supply of alloy steel!
 
 
Ian
 
 
 
Thread: Morse Taper Removal
22/12/2011 09:43:50
G'day Jim.
Yep 17mm is common !
Maybe if you had say some 40 or 50mm(1-5/8 or 2" for us metric haters !) roundbar or even square bar as it doesn't really matter then cut a length say 3 inches long (75mm ) and tap a hole in one end you can screw on an endcap made from brass or lead then tap another hole mid way along its length at 90 degree to the axis , this is for the handle .
On the other end simply mill a slot to fit the head of the drawbar and by doing this you have created an open end spanner / wrench .
After todays play in the shed in which i must have changed between a boring head ,a collet chuck and a drill chuck at least 20 times i will be making something similar very soon !
Everytime you want the spanner it is never at hand and the hammer- well it just seems to find its own place to hide !
Another thing i am thinking is to use to hoop type hammer holder that a builder / carpenter uses on thier belt and fit something similar to the side if my mill so when i use the hammer / spanner unit i can simply slot it back into its holder that way i have both tools at my fingertips when i want them !
 
Also oddly enough i was using a 1/2 inch end mill to counterbore 2 x 5-1/6 holes in black steel , the first had no issues but on the second i got some chatter so i stopped and checked things over and i had not tightened the locks on the head / column dovetail .
I was using a collet chuck though as i will not even think of sticking a milling cutter of any kind in a jacobs chuck as they are not rigid enough in any way and the tooling is too expensive to replace .
I usually end up setting up my ER32 chuck and have the correct collets, drills and counterbores ready in sequence so i can drill , clearance then counterbore each hole then move on , it does go reasonably quickly once you get into a rhythm.
I have the same machine as you (HM45/46)and have had no problems so far but maybe you could check the gib adjustments and keep the spindle as far up in the head as possible when machining as any play in the spindle housing bore is is magnified the further the spindle projects from the head .
 
Regards..
 
Ian
Thread: Vertical to Horizontal Mill conversion.
19/12/2011 22:55:21
Hi, Skarven
Wouldn't it be easier to buy or make a small metal bandsaw or power hacksaw ?
That way you are not upsetting the set up of the mill to cut materials , i use my bandsaw and it is set and forget until it switches itself off leaving me to nd to other duties .
 
Ian
 
 

Thread: Morse Taper Removal
18/12/2011 06:47:38
Just had a look at my mill and the collar idea went out the window as the spline dissapears down inside the head when at full spindle depth and to keep it above would mean the loss of 60% of the travel.
While i was playing and fiddling around changeing tools i noticed a screw in cover for the bottom bearing on the spindle and as it was loose i took it off.
I had a look up in there with a torch and found that the bearing was a taper type similar to what's used on hub bearings on a car and to my relief covered in moly grease !
I began to think of how a wheel bearing would suffer axial and radial shock loading because of potholes and corrogations in the road and maybe the designers had used this type bearing in a Mill as it can take some punishment or at least more than a ball type bearing .
Thoughts ?
 
Jim,
On the video it looked like the rod and hand wheel were not locked together and if they were inerteia and leverage or lack of it are your culprits .
What about making a new hammer that has one face of copper, brass or lead and the other end of the head a socket to undo the drawbar and the handle is used like a " tee" bar - 2 tools in one !
 
Ian
 
 
 
 


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