What lathe tool for deburring holes?

I use a 45 degree tct tool for relieving sharp edges on external shoulders

is there a tool for internal use?

i know a countersink in the tailstock works but a tool post mounted tool would be ideal.

again a boring bar set over to 45 degrees would work

but I’m after a tool i can just drop on to the QCTP and debur

does such a tool exist?

I use a flat topped 45° point on a full length 1/2" square HSS toolbit. The bit is sufficiently longer than the Dickson holder to accommodate a point on both ends.

Cutting edges hollow ground using the periphery of an 8" grinding wheel and kept honed really sharp between grinds.

For smaller jobs I use a Shaviv handheld pivoting deburring blade or use a countersink in the tailstock.

If its just a teensy burr I just use the Shaviv, even on bigger jobs.

I've always felt that the fixed blade deburring tools similar to the Shaviv would be dangerous to hand hold in a lathe.

In over 20 years I've only broken one Shaviv blade in the lathe.

Clive

I have a HSS tool ground 45deg on each side like a 90deg threading tool, held along the lathe axis it will do both internal and external corners.

Edited By JasonB on 01/08/2020 16:04:44

Hand turning rest and graver. You can do radii too.

regards Martin

Since the burr usually needs to be removed when the part is finished you could just use a hand deburring tool when removed from the chuck I use a Noga tool - excellent for remiving both external and internal burrs.

If you have deep pockets, these could be of interest.

**LINK**

Jim

+1 for Jason’s solution and I notice this is a popular method with YouTube demo’s.

Mike

Jimmy that is a nice tool

maybe look for a sh one

This might not be relevant to the post but it could help.

I have a tool like Jason's but the other end I use during parting off. It's set in a quick change tool holder to be on the exact centre of the parting tool. At some time during parting off I change tools and I can take the burr off the back off the component and put a nice little chamfer on the next at the same time. Swap back to parting tool and finish the parting off.

It's a very nice tool Ian.

Very tempted!

Jim

I use a broken 6mm carbide end mill shank. I ground a 90-degree point on it then ground it flat across the diameter. Put a tiny radius on it and set it into a piece of cold rolled with a grub screw to hold it.

It does inside bevels, outside bevels and it'll take light facing cuts.

I keep on meaning to make something but not got round to it yet.
My plan was to use a centre drill, where I could re-purpose one that had lost its tip.
Essentially a broken centre drill in the end of a bit of round bar of suitable size to fit in a boring tool holder.
You could even use one of the bell shaped centre drills to give a different profile.

Bill

I generally de-burr the rim of a bore by hand BUT (see Clive Foster's advice) with the machine OFF and the tool out of the front QCTP.

Using a scraper-type de-burring tool takes only seconds but seems to work better on larger diameter bores.

Another way, which needs a bit of deft twiddling, is to generate the tiny bevel with the top-slide and cross-slide together - best on the outer perimeter and where the chamfer is not critical, within reason.

I like Pete Rimmer's idea though, for the reasons he says; and in fact made a set of tools on that principle for my EW lathe.

I use a deburring tool , similar to the Noga listed previously. Inexpensive from the hardware shop. It comes with spare blades and can be used by hand for any drilled hole and inside edge of cut pipe.

Paul.

Get thee behind me, Satan.

I never knew there was so much to deburring a hole. I've always just stuck the end of an 8" three-sided file in there while the lathe is running and used it like a scraper to knock the burr off. If I want to get fancy I grind all 3 sides flat for the first inch or so so make nice sharp cutting edges. I dont remember ever seeing it done any other way before. Interesting.

Although I showed the lathe tool that I use it comes out more when I want a very slight chamfer as opposed to just taking off a burr, for that I may use a file which is a narrow pillar file with the end teeth ground off and shaped like a scraper so depending on hole I may use the end or the cutting teeth.

Also have the hook type deburring tools and for small holes I use one that has a CSK type tool on a cranked handle that is very good for holes less than 6mm. Or I may just hold a CSK bit by hand and hold it in the hole as the lathe is coming to a halt.

Deburring plastic needs a variety of tooling because some is stringy, some is brittle and some is just stubborn.

Martin C

The OP is asking about deburring drill and/or bored holes in the lathe. If you have a DRO fitted why not set the top slide to 45 degrees so the tool that has just bored the hole can deburr or chamfer the hole? The DRO takes care of length measurements so the top slide becomes somewhat redundant and therefore ideal for finishing off the job with a nice chamfer.

Both my lathes have DRO's, the "default" position for the top slide is 45 degrees, anyone else do that?

John

Graver everytime