Member postings for Pete Rimmer

500kg is easy pallet truck weight. If you're using 2 sheets of ply either get a piece of metal to bridge the gap and stop the small wheels from going through or over-lap the edges a few inches so the one you're one lays over the one you're going onto. Ply sheets are plenty long enough so that you can stopin the middle of a sheet and bring the second one around to tuck under the edge of the first to carry on.

Ideally you'll have 2 people, one on the truck handle and one to steady the load and provide some extra push.

A very handy tool, so long as it doesn't magnetise the spindle. If it does you'll have to be very careful when changing tools not to trap swarf that's stuck to the taper.

How are you using this level Iain? Your readings don't make much sense. If you're placing it on the carriage and winding it up and down you are not measuring bed twist, you're measuring the relative angle of the carriage. This can be hugely affcted by wear in the bed and even more in the uderside ways of the saddle (since they will be worn much more than the actual bed ways).

If your goal is to 'level' the bed i.e. remove twist - put the level on the bed. Once you have the bedway levelled if placing the level on the carriage yields different results then you have a separate issue to correct, but at least you will be correcting it towards your baseline measurement (i.e. a bed that is properly aligned) not trying to interpret readings that are affected by several different factors.

Looking further into this is seems that the 6- and 7-tooth reference to the drive worm is actually 'starts', as in 6-start worm and 7-start worm etc. This makes any figuring-out far too complicated without parts to measure as the number of starts and tooth size affect the helix angle.

Given the above if I were faced with this issue would knock up a simple 5/4 reuduction gearbox for the cable. and use that to alter the speedo reading.

The mating gear for the speedo is a worm so you could change the ratios whilst keeping the same centre distances simply by altering the worm pitch. A finer pitch on the worm would put more teeth on the gear and thus increase the ratio since one turn of the work advances the wormwheel one tooth.

As a matter of fact having a 5 tooth worm instead of a 6 tooth worm (the only two options from the vendor linked above) would make the speedo read 6/5 high giving a 96kph speedo reading at 80kph GPS reading, very close to what the OP reports as his error.

Lathes are full of random tapped holes, have you checked out your cross slide I bet it also has a good few holes drilled and tapped and plugged with grub screws.

Have a look here for manuals and brochures. It might not answer yuor question but it'll give you a lot of good info about the chippy.

https://passion-usinages.forumgratuit.org/t1576-colchester-chipmaster

Make adjustments to elimnate the vertical spindle movement and you'll probably find that the radial runout also disappears. Start by adjusting it down to a thou or so and then check the radial.

Yes that is 'country mile' in terms of spindle runout.

Put a tool in the spindle taper, set the dial gauge against the outside and use your hand to pull the spindle about, see if the effort you put in is reflected in the dial gauge reading. Repeat by heaving on the top of the spindle, it might simply be that the top support bearing is bad.

Edited By JasonB on 20/09/2023 08:44:43

0.09mm TIR is miles more than you should see in any mill spindle. Don't measure it on the outside, do it on the taper and do it at low speed.

Have you inspected the taper for embedded debris or burrs on the edge? Try roatating the head so that you can get a good view of it.

This is what I would do first. Turn a centre in your lathe chuck and then put the new arbor between that and the tailstock centre. Put a dial gauge on the wide part of the taper and turn it by hand between the centres. If there is runout the part is bad, if none then the spindle needs looking at.

It's unlikely that any home-shop-sized milling machine is going to be accurate or rigid enough to properly measure even a small lathe bed for twist, even a Bridgeport. The tables bend too much when they travel because of the overhang switching sides. A sensitive level and parallels is going to give a good idea of how things are.

Any floor that skates will rol over, will be just as suitable for pipe rollers and much less risky. I wouldn't bother much with a roller pry bar either, a normal prybar will be plenty god enough and you don't even need a full sized one. Just take plenty of packing/cribbing.

Is the V2000 really that much heavier than a Bridgy?

The only thing I would advise when buying a Clarkson is look it over carful for wear as the main slide has scant protection from grinding grit and the iron it's cast from is soft. If its been used in unsympathetic hands then the wear can be significant.

I've got an original Deckel S0 and it's usefulness is very narrowly focused. Yes you could grind the end lips of slot drills etc on it and yes it can be used for shrpening twist bits (with the drill sharpening attachment) but predominently it's used for grinding single lip/engraving cutters. Mine I got for grinding broken 6mm carbide end mills into form tools for use on my lathe.

I also have a Mk1 Clarkson which is far more versatile but the accessories are expensive. They are not difficult to make though.

Edited By Pete Rimmer on 12/09/2023 21:45:30

I'm struggling to figure out what exactly the query is but if you are asking about the difference between using a single-start worm and wheel and a 2-start worm and wheel of the same tooth count to turn the gear blank, the 2-start worm will drive the wheel twice as fast because of the doubled lead.

Therefore, if your single- start worm setup would yield a hobbed gear of 32 teeth, the 2-start worm setup will yield a gear of 16 teeth.

Where are you Antony? I can make that gear but I have no idea if it's been made long-addendum so having the parts to offer up would be beneficial

I have hardback 13th edition and PDF 30th edition and the one great advantage of the PDF edition is that it's searchable.

I keep meaning to buy a copy of "Engineer's black book" but they do two versions - inch and metric, and I don't know what the differences are so can't figure which to choose.

For large tooth-count gears I set up a pointer to align a previously-cut tooth, and it has saved me from indexing errors several times. It's quite sickening cutting the final tooth gap and discoveing that the last tooth is either too thin or too fat.

You'll find more bikes on the road with banjo brake lines than not, by a huge majority. I'm sure that the only bikes I have owned that didn't have them were cable- and rod-operated brakes.

Paint it