Member postings for John MC

I made my own because I thought the commercial ones had too fine a thread, the mop would screen on. And on. Until far too and unnecessarily tight.

I cut the tapered thread by running the lathe very slowly, under 20rpm and withdrawing the cross-slide as the taper increased in diameter. From memory, 2.5mm pitch (10tpi?).

Needs some concentration but quite doable. The result wasn't pretty but has worked for well for many years.

The results I get from my PV's would suggest that it is possible to predict the amount of "generating weather". Over the 10+ years I've had them the export "income" for has been the same +/- £20/annum. I was also able to work out how long it would be to cover the purchase and installations costs, only out by a couple of months in nearly 8.5 years.

While its nice to be able to do ones bit to save the planet, I want a reasonable return on the investment. I'm fortunate in having the old Feed in Tariff still. The SEG tariff is nowhere near as good, a quick calculation suggests that pay back time would almost double. I probably wouldn't bother with a PV installation now.

I looked in to getting a battery recently, the numbers just didn't add up, I would be using the grid to keep the batteries charged during the winter. Also, £7k will (still) buy a lot of electricity.

As for heat pumps, I can see me going that way when I'm too old to shovel coal in to the solid fuel boiler. But first I will continue with my efforts to improve insulation of the house.

I've always admired those who can see a big project like this through to the end. Plenty must start these types of project with the best of intentions and never finish having under estimated the work necessary. Looks a good job, well done. Kit cars are not my cup of tea but I still like to see them, especially the well engineered ones.

Interesting what you say about the "poor chap" with the motorcycle. I think he thought this forum is a mutual appreciation society, it isn't. Anything less than total admiration for his efforts was unacceptable it seems. For a forum to function well, as this one does, tolerance of others views is a necessity, the motorcycle guy lacked that tolerance suggesting that this forum was not the place for him.

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I didn't get it fully sorted. Removed the contra-piston, fortunately no galling, polished it, reassembled and and ran it.

My first thought was incompatible metals. Cylinder and piston both cast iron from an unknown source, different expansion rates? Would account for one tightening up, but 4 - 5?

I agree, the friction from an RS built in type seal is, for all practical purpose, zero. As you say, retaining the outer facing seal is useful for keeping the muck out.

You referred to a discussion of a few years ago about the poor bearing mounting arrangements in this engine, how did you go about correcting this? Interested to know because I was involved in that discussion.

Its been a few years since I ran my version of this engine, might try and resurrect it! The only problem it had was the contra-piston tightened up in the cylinder, needed correcting a few times. Probably heat related, the only time it happened was when the engine was run "in anger" under the bonnet of a tethered car.

Is RAAC failure the same as "concrete cancer"? My understanding of the current problems of with RAAC is water ingress leading to corrosion of the steel reinforcement.

Concrete cancer is a chemical reaction within the concrete, alkali vs silica(?). This causes spalling of the surface of the structure that, in turn, eventually exposes the reinforcement which then corrodes.

The media seemed to have latched on to the term concrete cancer when it is, in fact, another mode of failure.

Wouldn't be without my 20th edition, used it through a significant part of my working life, not so much now.

A rigid pipe would have enough flexibility to allow handlebar and lever adjustment. Changing the bars would, most likely, need a new pipe, flexible or otherwise.

Anyway, looking forward to the next installment!

As has been pointed out, pretty much universal fitments on motorcycle brake systems. The hydraulic industry as a whole must use them by the billion. Well thought out reliable tech.

As for the less mechanically able, once a product leaves a factory the manufacturer has lost control over there product, so who knows what might happen,

Having seen so many leaks ,from banjos,on commercial fuel filters, so avoid 'em like the plague, but each to his own.

Maybe gas oil is more searching than hydraulic fluid.

Howard

Really? Filters and water separators are under very low pressure, for these to leak reinforces my point about the "the less mechanically able".

Absolutley nothing wrong with banjo style, a safe, reliable and easy way to connect, in this instance, hydraulic brake pipes. The problems arise when the less mechanically able are let loose on them.

Does anyone else find themselves getting somewhat irritated with sweeping statements rubbishing well tried and reliable technology is rubbished as it has been here?

Back to the OP's junction block, could have been somewhat more compact. Why not a rigid pipe from the master cylinder to the junction block?

These bikes seem to have the usual excessively long chain runs for recumbents. Many years ago I was involved in designing a recumbent, this was overcome by building in a hub gear at roughly the midpoint of the chain run to shorten the chain runs

This style of bike is not as good as a conventional bike for hill climbing and this was of some help in setting up the gearing to help with this, to some degree.

I would also suggest to the OP that the pedal position could have been a little lower.

As Adrian R2 pointed out, cycle racing is highly regulated. Another style of bike that cannot compete in the popular side of cycling competition is the small wheeled bike, principally the Moulton bike.

How much end thrust are you expecting? Provided that the spindle is of a reasonable diameter, say 1" - 25mm then plummer blocks with standard (deep groove) ball races will be capable of handling axial loading from wood turning.

To put some numbers to it, the very common 6005 deep groove ball race will be able to take about 1/2 a ton axial (end thrust) load while rotating.

My car doesn't have a filler cap. Just open the flap and shove the nozzle down the 'ole!

There is, supposedly, an anti theft (syphoning) thing down ther somwhere.

No filler cap, one less thing to go wrong?

Good to see that repair has been arranged.

have you checked for any other damage. Distorted gear teeth? What would trouble me most about this sort of mishap is distortion of the bed, not unkown with this sort of crash.

Easy to check with a precision spirit level. If you don't have such a thing then see if the lathe still turns parallel when its up and running again.

A rather complex solution that can be simplified as Kiwi bloke suggests. Also, remove the spacer between the two nose bearings, clamp them together. Maybe a circlip rather than the M16 threaded holding the outer races?

The mounting of the third bearing is as it should be.

Another thought. Why not reduce the overhang from the nose of the spindle by removing what looks like a plain diameter with spanner flats(?). Then contrive something at the other end of the spindle to hold it while tightening the collet nut.

Its good to see a design that doesn't (grossly) over constrain the bearings as many do, that are published in the world of ME.,

Diesel and now petrol have particulate filters so good for both. Engines pass oil in to the combustion chamber in minute amounts, not blue smoke amounts, hopefully! This will have some effect on emission tests, virtually nothing if the engine is in good condition, more so as the engine wears. Oils can also have an effect on valve seat life.

Why do you think we have low ash content oils (SAPS)?

Turned back from RIAT because of thw weather?

No idea what size or output alternator is being discussed, I'm guessing the article refers to making one? To be driven by steam or IC engine of what size?

Rather than make one, how about using one of these.

Known generically as a "Kubota" alternator, I think it has an output of around 150watts. Would probably need 1/3hp to drive it. Will give useful output at around 1500rpm. Price would be around the £90 mark with a suitable rectifier/regulator. The largest diameter is about 85mm. The mounting bracket can be easily modified.

Clearly no good for a Stuart10V/H but good for the larger engines in their range. Could easily be dressed up to look "period". Or sat on the front of a showmans engine?

If anyone needs dimensions of one of these let me know and I will measure one up.

This is something of a misconception. Belts will be noisier and less smooth than a well designed chain set up. Consider this, each chain link comprises of a roller on its pin (axle) that will be lubricated with a film of oil that will cushion the "blow" on impact with the sprocket. When the rollers come into contact with the sprocket the same will happen. (Same might be said for a wet belt setup?). That is to say a chain has some resilience in tension compared to a belt that can make a smoother running setup.

As for tensioners, I've yet to see a cam drive setup without a tensioner, belt or chain. Sometimes auto, sometimes manual. I think auto best because it stops gorillas over tensioning and the overly cautious under tensioning.

Cost is, I think, the main reason for using belts in this application. A belt running dry requires a lot less engineering than a wet chain they replaced. Think of it from the production angle rather the than the maintenance angle. Cars are designed for low cost production, maintenance doesn't seem to be given much priority.