Anodising Questions

I’m making a telescope, mostly from aluminium.

There will be about 10 parts that need anodising, some black, some in a bright colour such as red or gold.

The black parts (area wise) will be a tube about 75mm diameter by 200mm long, together with a tube about 80mm diameter by 150mm and one 56mm diameter by 155mm long (lengths are approximate).

The biggest coloured part will be a turned/milled part from a hollow block about 75mm diameter by 50mm long, then there will be a ~60mm diameter ring and various knobs and small parts.

While I'm likely to experiment with anodising parts myself, I want a decent job so I'm interested in recommendations of firms who will take on a job of this sort of size, and also rough indications of the cost.

Neil

I've never used them, Neil, but I think this would be my first checkpoint:

**LINK**

http://www.anodising.com/

A Manchester firm, with a very impressive website.

MichaelG.

Can't directly help, but talk to an anodiser, sooner rather than later, as I understand some alloys anodise better than other.

This comes from when I re-build the Ducati years ago and approached a local firm with the intention of getting some anodising done there.

I'm using 6082, which is apparently 'good' for everything except brightness which is 'fair'.

Hopefully this means all the bits of one colour will come out looking the same!

I have contacted one firm in Swindon who actually give some idea of price for a rough estimate, but I have a feeling my requirements will either fall under MOQ or what can be put in with another run.

It would be useful to hear some 'real world' experiences.

Neil

For consistency of colour always use the same material. I have used Acorn in Vulcan Way Sandhurst, 01252 860424 very accomodating and not OTT in price. Just remember that if you want hard anodising (black) they tend to grow in size a little.

The boss there is the same name as you. Usual disclaimer and they are just down the road!

I had a local company anodise some steam engine parts for me a couple of years ago and they made an excellent job of it. Price was very reasonable, too. Suggest you trawl the yellow pages for a local company, then either call them or walk in their door and see what they can do for you. This who I used - **LINK**

I've been quoted £100 for 1 1/2 runs + posting the bits back to me, which seems perfectly acceptable , except they only do black and silver.

So... I might try doing the small coloured bits myself or look around for someone who will do colours at a reasonable cost.

Neil

Very helpful links thank you Michael and Gordon. Neil please do let us know how this pans out.

Neil, drop a line to "Jon" on the forum as he has a lot of it done including colours.

2024 is bad or anything else containing significant amounts of copper.

Thanks All,

I've re-read the old threads involving Ramon Wilson, and I'll drop Jon a PM.

I've had a few companies suggested here and by pm.

Pricing seems to be more or less dependent on surface area, so what I'm going to do is wait until I have the bits, measure them up and send details to the 'favourites'.

In the meantime I will do some experiments with anodising small parts as I may be able to do the coloured parts myself.

Neil

While building various research instruments some considerable time ago, I had quite a number of aluminium parts professionally anodised. It was disappointing when one set of parts, supposed to be black, were supplied with a significantly purple colour. Curiously, one piece just visible under the micrometer spindle, was quite a lot closer to being black.

I have to admit that there is a slight colour cast in this photograph. It was taken from a very old (paper) print.

Edited By Sam Stones on 27/01/2018 21:18:47

Always the way Sam, been there done it.
Just a thought the two or three pins did they end up sloppy on receipt? If not, not bothered and thats how it came out blue/black.

Finding an anodisers that cares is highly remote. If part comes out wrong they may strip and redo a few times each time it removes metal and ends up scrap. Biggest beef with 99% of them. One part at a Birmingham highly recommended anodisers came back and screwed in a further 285 degrees on a 1mm pitch. That tells you approx 0.8mm material has been eaten away in the acid! Scrap job.

Then theres the lost or scrapped parts they shrug shoulders at, justthe job when made parts to microns to fit together and end up remaking the lot.
So far in 24 yrears only found one anodisers i 98% trust and forwarded to Neil.

Jon,

It's too long ago to recall if the degree of fit was affected.

Although it isn't very clear in the photograph, the 'pins' (guide rods and the micrometer spindle mechanism) you mentioned were clamped in the same plane. Had there been a problem, it was an easy matter to rub a bit off the matching faces of the clamps.

The anodisers were (slightly) apologetic, but (fortunately it seems) I chose to accept the parts as they were. As one offs, I couldn't afford to remake them. There wasn't time either.

I asked for natural (uncoloured) anodising for all follow up jobs that I chose to have anodised. I seem to recall there were few local anodisers, so I chose to stay with the same company.

In reality, I wasn't interested in colour. I wanted parts with a hard wearing surface.

Your points are well founded, and I'm sure Neil (and others) will benefit.

Thanks again, I'm beginning to wonder if home anodising is the way to go for them all! That way I get complete control.

I hope to try anodising some smaller parts this week.

Neil

I've had a lot of part ruined by plating companies, I've recently heard good reports about a company in Prudhoe near Newcastle, I may give them a try with some test bits before I commit to some complex parts, I'm looking for a bright silver grey colour.

I prefer 5083 for anodised parts

Neil, if home -anodising, check with Dean Clarke 2 how he does his V4/V8/V12 aero engine anodising.
V.impressive results.
DaveD

Best of luck Neil, i didnt have much luck when i used to attempt should i say my own anodising.
That was in the days when there was only three that told you how and omitted relevant points kept hush hush and had to work out for yourself.

Only got my small tank now, its been outside 8 years, bigger tank my nipper broke 12 years ago gallons of sulphuric flooded out.

5083 a bit soft, 6082 T6 Structural aluminium despite data sheets responds to the best polishing and finishing.
Link to Neil they do shades of grey.

Have used twice a company up NE for nickel plating on copper plating on to aluminium 6082, they have lost critical non repeatable parts twice. Finishers just dont care and no come backs.