A good quality oil can..?

I've not had much luck buying a reliable oil can.

Tried two new Wesco cans and neither would pump (I wasn't impressed with the plastic construction anyway). Tried some unbranded one from soke general tool stand - pile of crap!

However I am very happy with a Reilang precision oiler; I can't believe in this day and age they're the only quality suppiler (I cant spend that price for *every* new oil can!)

Recommendations for workshop use please.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 10/09/2017 20:08:56

A Reilang oil can, just google it or try one of the suppliers on the forum, yes they are expensive but they work faultlessly and the pump works whichever way up you are using it and doesn't leak !

I reckon that my Reilang must have paid for itself in cost of oil not spilt.

The awful Wesco spilt as much as was used. I have one or two other similar designs and they are all useless.

Not just cost of wasted oil but the mess and it soaks into absorbent surfaces such as a wooden shelf, making it impossible to clean up.

Get what you pay for again.

I have a Reilang but it's a big one, too big for ball oilers on machine tools really, it has a non flexi spout and the big alloy body gets in the way. Excellent oil can though. retired to the assembly/engine building shop.

My go to oil cans in the machine shop are small no-name Chinese 350ml steel, come with fixed steel and flexi spouts. Cheap as chips (about 3 quid a piece), robustly made, no plastic internal or externally, used daily for years, and if they break, buy a new one, it aint breaking the bank. I'm sure they are available in the UK.

I've got one of those wesco 350 square green plastic can oilers and it's been really good to me

The spout is a fixed see through plastic

You can also get plans for a home made version of the American made Eagle oiler .

+1. Another vote for the Reilang. Buy the metal body type though. I have had a plastic Reilang before but it wasn’t very good at all.

Edited By Mark Gould 1 on 12/08/2018 20:04:30

I cant remember the name but I use two oil cans I bought from Halford's, flexible spouts and steel bodies, don't leak and get a lot of abuse when trying to oil a running engine.

Martin P

Have several oil cans of various vintages. Wescos are used for general "oiling". The genuine oil gun one for the Myford put oil everywhere except through the nipples. My smaller Reilang puts through ball oilers with rarely any leakage.

I got what I paid for, initially expensive, but never lets me down or causes problems. What more can one ask?

Howard

Tried two new Wesco cans and neither would pump

I tried the 350 square green one with a bendy see through spout from the usual suspect and it wouldn't pump to start with

So I turned it upside down for a few seconds to let the oil seal up any air gaps and now it's working fine, plenty of control if I want to put a teeny bit on

Reilang, Eagle, BIB (french) all excellent, have sold loads of them and never had a complaint.

Cheers, Martin

Here's a thought..... Why not make your own ?

I often see metal hip flasks for a couple of pounds in charity shops. Machining a simple drip nozzle replacement cap with an O-ring would make for a handy size oil can.

I tried to use my flexi spout oiler the other day after filling it up. It wouldn’t work at all and I nearly threw it in the bin but for some reason I turned it upside down and gave it some pumping and it started to work. I hope I remember this next time I need it!

Looking to oil up the ML7 now it's back on its feet, and dreading using the old Myford oiler. Could those who chose a Reilang oil-can (200ml? is that the best size) say whether they chose/prefer a rigid or flexible delivery tube .
Thanks
DaveD

Last year I was given a whole load of tools by the family of a professional model engineer (yes really, he made models, mostly ships, for the Admiralty and later the MOD). In amongst these were two Valvespout oilcans which didn't look much but have proved to allow injection of Nuto 32 oil into all of the oilers on both my Myford ML7 and S7. The nozzle is small enough to allow me to push the balls off of their seats in both the grease nipple type and the original flush ball type of oiler, oil can then be introduced into these with ease and there is very little wastage or mess. The ones I have look like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MULLER-Co-VALVESPOUT-OIL-CAN-EXCELLENT-CONDITION-CLEANED-WORKING/352448843091?hash=item520f968d53:g:EV8AAOSwyUtbfrN6

Don Cox

I think I have been persuaded to buy one of these Reilang cans, the 200ml metal one hopefully will sort the ball oilers

Out on my Shaper

Mick

I have a cheap Chinese oil can with brass pump mechanism submerged in the oil in the usual manner. But it SQUEAKS like a dry door hinge every time the plunger is pushed down or released. How can they make a mechanism that is completely submerged in oil squeak?

Make your own this design was published in model engineer last year.

I've made two and they work perfectly, you can get the material to make 1/2 dozen for the cost of a railing can.

Stew

Edited By Stewart Hart on 01/09/2018 15:46:27

Edited By Stewart Hart on 01/09/2018 15:47:28

Tried and tested since 2012? Or is the camera date telling fibs?