Member postings for JohnF

Bernard, Something to be aware of with this type of security device is that if you have more than one junction in the loop wire its possible for remove an item from the loop without there being a warning if you have switched it off to remove an item for e.g. demonstration. The answer of course is reconnect asap whilst the demo takes place.

This is probably unlikely for your situation but I know of such an event happening at a show on a relatively large stand where for convenience they had several junctions in the said loop. We used to use these but stopped after this happening to the other vendor.

Forewarned is forearmed !

John

I would use a soft wire rotary wire brush as opposed to the normal hard wire type, the soft ones work very well and leave a pleasing finish without damaging the surface. The wire is around 0.005" dia and often stainless steel.

John

Just messaged Jason !!

Not seen anything yet, no email etc and there is nothing on my account ? Are you sure it not some form of sam Michael ?

However if they do transfer their business into the UK I see that as a positive

John

Seems to be more and more of these scams, I keep getting one "from" ?? Microsoft about my account ! I don't have and have never had a Microsoft account !! so clearly a scam, have reported to the government scam link email more than once

[email protected]

These people are a pain in the proverbial grrrr!

John

Dave may be worth a look at Amadeal, see shopping partners on here, I use imperial mostly but did buy a set 0 -100 mm form Amadeal and have to say the quality is amazing for the price, they were about £40 when I bought them, now £55

However they seem to do larger sets by other makers, at least a different design but there is a new set 0 - 200 at £168 which appear to be the same tools as the ones I purchased.

The Dasqua also look to be nice tools, some of the Eastern makes are IMO chunky and not "nice" tools, Dasque look to be fine in this respect ??

Just my thoughts !

John

For similar purposes I have used car paint lacquer [spray can] bought from Halfords, the last recent job was a quantity of brass domed nuts to be used in my daughter-in-laws kitchen - time will tell how they weather the steam/kitchen conditions etc ! Other past items have worked well.

The Renaissance wax works well but you do need to keep re-applying it and maybe a refinish now and then.

John

The machine looks superb -- well done Michael Chung and good luck for the future !

Welcome to the forum, first point the nipples are exclusive for oil NOT grease, if you have greased them better to strip down, clean and re lubricate with oil.

Regarding the gearbox I have attached a link to a pdf document file for full instructions and use of the gearbox. From what you have said none of the gearbox TPI's are correct so the first place i would look is the main spindle and tumbler reverse gears -- make sure they are the correct tooth count.

https://groups.io/g/myfordlathes/files/s7gbox2.pdf

Another interesting post on here

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=86738&p=1

John

I have had Phonax aids via the NHS now for about 15 years? Main problem is high pitch sounds, missed hearing the song birds when out and about. Several different units, the first had the very small tube with "bud" for the ear, 2nd & 3rd ones the same but more sophisticated. Now I have reached the limit for these units so a couple of months back had a new test and now they have a soft ear mould and a larger tube with blue tooth and volume control -- very happy with them and the service from the NHS staff.

Personally I don't think its worth the money to go private, setting aside development etc cannot see why they should be so expensive when they must be produced in vast quantities.

Bob, look at your messages John

Roger, A lot depends on the quality of your die, less expensive cut thread carbon dies tend to be lax tolerances, better to use ground thread dies and personally I use HSS.

Regarding lubricant try methylated spirit or paraffin, meths works well, bit smelly though !

Some years ago i purchased some ME taps & dies from a well known supplier, thread quality was poor IMO so contacted them and they did me a swop for HSS ground thread -- far better, there was of course a price adjustment.

Maybe Wiseman Threading tools can assist try this link Wiseman

Rik, Nigel's analysis is correct but look at this thread which is a simple way to cut metric and although there are pitch errors they are so small for most jobs they are good enough. If you really need to be 100% accurate then you can always use the metric kit you have along with the necessary change wheels.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=125630

John

At $4.90 why not just buy another jig ? Of course there is shipping to consider ! Or consider opening the hole to the nearest metric size ?

Trevor, Worth looking at pages 2 & 4 on the link I sent for some photos of Morse taper removal wedges which hopefully may solve your problem, you can of course make these.

I had a similar problem with a drill chuck in my lathe tailstock and ended up using extreme measures to remove it ! But of course no bearings to consider, however see the attached sketch of a possible set up to hopefully prevent any bearing damage by supporting the machine spindle thus enabling the use of a heavy hammer - say 4lb [2kg]

You need to support the spindle using these extreme measures by the use of a large tube that goes around your chuck and if possible lower the spindle onto the tube, if this is not possible use a tube large enough for the chuck to enter or suitable bar stock "parallels" and 2 maximum size bars to support the spindle keeping everything as close together as possible. This should prevent bearing damage. Stating the obvious put something underneath to protect the table. Apply as much downward pressure to the quill / spindle as possible as you apply the hammer blow.

To deliver the blow I would make a threaded slave bar from as large a diameter that will enter the spindle and a fairly short thread so that it screws into the arbor up to a shoulder -- no or minimal load delivered to the arbor thread but the thread is protected and the shoulder delivers the blow directly to the arbor.

Not something I would suggest lightly as its an extreme measure but sometimes needs / must ! Hope this helps if all else fails

John

Hi Trevor, please be wary of using a hammer to assist with taper removal it may damage the bearings ! Remember these are small machines and not to industrial spec, it is common practice to use this method in industry but these machines are fitted with different tapers that break much easier and of course the bearings are far more robust.

There was an extensive post on groups.io relating to this problem and after much perseverance the problem was solved -- a load read but lots of ideas https://groups.io/g/emcoV10lathe/topic/94147274#22906

John

Philip -- see your messages -- Flashing box on the menu bar LHS

John

Hi another Dinosaur here ! I agree completely and do the same, I don't have a contactless card -- if they send one its returned with a request to send a standard PIN card -- trust nothing digital or in other words don't trust that which you cannot see !

John

I recall as very small boy about 4 years old touring the Kyle's of Bute with my parents and using the paddle steamer ferry's, there seemed to be many of them and I was fascinated with the engine rooms -- access in those days was part of the journey, no restrictions.

Also worth a look is the Steam Yacht Gondola on Coniston see here https://www.visitlakedistrict.com/things-to-do/steam-yacht-gondola-p1211101

Happy memories !

John