Gloves

Hi

I have just spent a happy first day playing with my new milling machine (ama30L as you asked). I have noticed however the swarf from a milling machine is in a new league of nastiness when compared to the lathe. I normally wear the rubber or nitrile gloves but these just don't offer enough protection against those razor sharpe slivers! What suggestions do you have for a glove that is still thin enough to offer a good feel without being too bulky?

Best regards

Keith MM

I would never wear any sort of glove while running the machine under power but for cleaning up there are Kevlar reinforced gloves that resist cutting and are quite thin. I still remember the picture shown to us on our apprenticeship induction of a finger and the tendons ripped out from the forearm laid on a drilling machine table, a dire warning about gloves and drilling machines.

Mike

I was taught to never wear gloves to operate a mill or lathe.

I pick up large swarf with a pair of long nose pliers and then use a wet vacuum cleaner to pick up the smaller shavings.

Paul.

I never wear gloves for machining, but use ordinary riggers gloves for cleaning up and changing cutters etc. The gloves I use are ordinary 'Riggers gloves' which are as cheap as chips off eBay and come in various cuff lengths and sizes. I've never made any sense of nitrile / latex gloves for anything, (even painting) maybe I need to try harder.

Steve

I don't wear gloves (or rings, bracelets or watch) when using any of my 'powered' tools. All cleaning/moving of swarf being done by paint brushes allocated to each machine. I have small flat bottomed trowels (garden variety) to move the swarf away from the machine into the swarf bucket I keep handy for that purpose.

However, I do wear gloves for much of the rest of my time in the workshop. They make life much easier when handling stock - especially the rusty stuff I have in my 'scrap' bins. They also make the work pleasanter when hacksawing or filing - helping to avoid blistered hands (I don't do many of the hand operations often enough to get callouses). I don't use the nitrile type (they make my hands sweat too much) - preferring a synthetic 'cloth' type with reinforced work surfaces and Velcro wrist bands. They need to be a good fit though - not too loose or too tight.

And of course, they also help to keep my hands warm - important if you suffer from any form of arthritis.

Regards,

IanT

20 Quid sounds a cheap way of keeping your fingers ! NEVER wear gloves, scarfs etc. Hats - yes.

**LINK**

OK, Brass, Al etc are a problem. I use a paint brush, then a workshop vacuum cleaner, suds and all.
BobH

Do not use gloves for machining. Your hands will get tough the more work you do. Always switch machine off when removing swarf and use a bent metal hook and long nose pliers. No swarf in front of hand, always behind when pulling.

Edited By mechman48 on 31/12/2015 10:22:04

I have a magnetic swarf remover the type that you pull the handle and it drops off into the bin invaluable for ferrous materials.

Basically a magnet in a stainless tube

Nitrile gloves are a no no on powered tools. They can grab on to rotating parts.

Gloves seem to direct splinters into my skin so I just have bare skin when using the lathe and mill. I was taught it is better to lose a bit of skin than a finger or hand. I keep rolls of paper towel handy to remove gross contamination and wash frequently.

Martin

I'm with Steve; cheap riggers gloves for handling rusty/oily stock and parts, but never, ever wear gloves when operating machinery. I've had an incident where clothing has been grabbed by a rotating machine, and believe me it scares the s**t out of you.

I don't wear gloves when gas welding but do wear appropriate gloves when arc or TIG welding to protect from UV.

Andrew

Going against everyone else, I wear nitrile gloves almost all the time in the workshop. I have psoriasis and also have bouts of a nastier skin problem called pyoderma gangrenosum that mainly affect my hands. I know the risks but protecting them from dirt and fluids is more important , it's either them or give up which I'm not prepared to do. I have caught the gloves probably 3 times over 10 years or so but they rip and have not caused any injury. Suppose it's my current size and strength that prevents this at the moment , if/when I become more infirm I will have to have a rethink but until then I'll continue to wear gloves.

Devils advocate here and I wear gloves all the while in the workshop and I do this for a living.

Don't like the nitrile ones they are too 'grabby' and stick to handles etc.

I use the thin fabric ones that have a poly something sprayed front, usually called PU gloves. Average price is about 90p to £1.25 per pair but in bulk I pay about 45p per pair.

As I'm doing this for a living by biggest enemy is hot chips, hot enough to burn your hands and these stop a lot of it although they can melt holes in the fabric if I'm rushing. They are warm and you can handle small nuts and bolts down to M4 size with them on.

As regards safety if your hands are anywhere near rotating machinery that gloves can catch then they are too close anyway. It's pure common sense.

DON'T PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR ROTATING MACHINERY.

Adopt that rule and you will have a far easier life. Dress accordingly, no loose clothes, ties are for fly fishing, not workshops, ask J. R. Hartley and wear decent footwear.

I wear steel toe capped rigger boots as it's what I'm used to but that's probably well OTT for a home shop.

I cringe when I see photo's of people in the shop in sandals.

If you get a pair of contaminated gloves then turn them inside out, give then a good batting and leave then inside out and get a new pair, not that expensive. Then later when you are cleaning swarf tray put the dirty pair on top of the clean pair, then either put them back inside out so you can spot them easily as dirty gloves or just dump them.

Safety is not embedded in a set of rules and regulations, it should be embedded in your own mind. You and only you are responsible for your safety.

Silly things like a bar of metal sticking out of a tray on the floor, make it so it doesn't stick out and catch your ankles.

It's not rocket science.

Leather gloves used when winding springs (on lathe, manual, with the power off), using a hand grinder (usually a Dremel) and silver soldering (I do not weld). Otherwise, never.

As for swarf, I find the most useful tool is a small rake.

JA

Hi, I have to agree with what John has said. I don't do turning or milling at work, but do use drilling and power bands saw machines etc. and always wear gloves, mostly rigger gloves. Common sense should always prevail and never get your hands anywhere near moving parts that are cutting metal how ever big or small.

Regards Nick.

Using that once popular but now rare phrase - I agree with Nick.

No gloves for lathe and milling machine, but rigger gloves for filing, sawing and band saw.

But I'll also add that before work I always apply a barrier cream to my hands. I don't know if it does much, but I always feel it provides some protection when in contact with grease, oil, cutting fluid etc, and certainly makes cleaning my hands afterwards easier. (Aside: I've nearly finished the big jar of Swarfega I bought at the same time as the lathe and milling machine. Regrettably I have a feeling that I am still so unproductive in the workshop that the weight of Swarfega used exceeds the weight of finished parts . Maybe 2016 will be better....).

Hi

Many thanks for the informed comments. On balance I think I will continue to use the rubber gloves in the workshop as my skin and oils do not mix so well. I note the comments about rotating machines and a gloved hand. When it comes to cleaning up I will invest in some heavier duty gloves with the machine switched off!

Best regards

Keith MM

Barrier cream? It works for me and I think Screwfix sell it. If not Morris Oils certainly does.

JA