Member postings for 60019

I spent the day as a signalman on a heritage railway. We had a very busy Christmas, but we are closed up now until mid February.

The last move of the day was the light engine off the last passenger train returning to the shed at the next station up the line (though it always seems odd to refer to a 9F as a light engine). As I watched her tail light disappear into the darkness I wondered if I'll get to do that again.

Her 10 years of running since last major overhaul are just about up and she will soon be in the queue to go into the works. 5 to 10 years before she comes out again would not be a surprise. We are from the same decade, and both showing signs of wear and tear. In the time it takes her to get rebuilt 'good as new', I wonder if my own deterioration will have reached the point where I am no longer able to be signalman? I did enjoy today though, and I look forward to the day I accept a 'light' engine and find a 9F coming towards me again.

Health, wealth and happiness to you all in 2019.

Edited By 60019 on 01/01/2019 19:30:03

If it's any consolation, you're not the first and I am sure you will not be the last.

This thread may help **LINK**

Having recently succeeded with one of the two jobs I have been putting off, Quartering The Drivers, on my 5" gauge I made on a start on the other one - Skimming The Pistons.

But that's not why I've logged in...

I volunteer on a heritage railway and last night I drew the golden ticket. November is a quiet month with no day time service trains, so it is an opportunity for some of the bigger maintenance jobs. But yesterday we had to run the beer train and the dining train and I got to be pilotman for one of the sections. So, footplate riding on a Black 5 with 6 on, over the Alps, white hot fire, copious steam drifting around, cab in darkness to preserve the crew's night vision, gauge glass illuminated by an oil lamp, looking out for signals in the pitch black, is an experience I'll remember for a while. As the fireman said - its like time travel to an age where this experience was an everyday means of earning a living for some. Together with the Standard 4 on the dining train I had to make a total of 10 trips through the section. Nice work if you can get it, even with a midnight finish.

I've said before, models are brilliant, but just every now and then I have to experience the real thing.

Mike

Me also.

On my 17th birthday in September 1969 I attached the L plates to the car and persuaded my dad that my first driving lesson should be a trip from Leeds to Harrogate for me to meet up with three of my mates and attend a Nice concert. Not sure of the venue, I guess the Royal Hall.

This week we all gathered again to attend the funeral of the mother of one of them.

Fond memories all round, but that b****y clock keeps ticking...

Mike

Using that once popular but now rare phrase - I agree with Nick.

No gloves for lathe and milling machine, but rigger gloves for filing, sawing and band saw.

But I'll also add that before work I always apply a barrier cream to my hands. I don't know if it does much, but I always feel it provides some protection when in contact with grease, oil, cutting fluid etc, and certainly makes cleaning my hands afterwards easier. (Aside: I've nearly finished the big jar of Swarfega I bought at the same time as the lathe and milling machine. Regrettably I have a feeling that I am still so unproductive in the workshop that the weight of Swarfega used exceeds the weight of finished parts . Maybe 2016 will be better....).

I was faced with the same challenge recently with the 400W DC motor in my lathe. I was pleasantly surprised by how well a PP9 battery I had to hand turned the motor over nicely.

(I'd previously tried using a battery charger as a power source, but nothing happened. I suspect the battery charger was too 'sophisticated' and wanted to see some volts coming back before it was prepared to supply any current).

If you've got the motor out of the machine I'd recommend you inspect the brushes, but TBH this doesn't sound like it will be the problem.

Cheers,

Mike

Today was a big day in my model engineering progress. I finally decided I'd got enough experience with my lathe to risk putting the Metro cylinder castings in the 4 jaw and pressing the start button. The operations were nothing special, but this is the biggest chance I've taken so far that could result in an expensive door stop.

All ok for now... two cylinders bored, faced and identical. Plenty of opportunity to mess up remain, but I'm happy with my start.

Mike

If your 250 is anything like my 280 you may find that the sacrificial pin in the drive shaft has done its job and prevented any damage (pride excluded).

If so, then David's suggestion is a good starting point, and will tell you if the pin is broken, but is not going to fix it. However I can say that in this circumstance George's description is a proven approach. (Obviously this is hypothetical and/or happened to a friend).

If the pin is broken then remember to punch it out with the shaft removed. That will leave you with the problem of what to replace it with, I seem to recall that I turned down a piece of plastic that has stood the test of time.

I'd definitely try this before doing anything with the gibs.

Good luck

Mike

"...and finishing at Hampshire."

You'll be welcome at the Basingstoke and District MES Miniature Steam Rally, 13th and 14th April.

Traction Engines, Steam Lorries, Miniature Railway, Exhibition etc.

Mike

Edited By 60019 on 27/03/2013 14:29:53

I reached the point where I could prevaricate no longer. I placed the eccentrics onto the axle and pressed the little end journals into the cranks. The process left me in admiration of the 70 year old bench vise handed down to me by father, and more importantantly with an axle that rotates freely! Still a long way to go, but this was a big moment for me.

Mike

I had to scrape the ice off my car windsreen when I clocked off my volunteer shift on the railway last night. But the clear skies and still air had made the sights and sounds of the dining train climbing the bank under starlight behind a SR Schools pretty magical. Models are good, but you need to see the real thing too .

(The real ale train was running too. That wasn't quite so pretty; but loud and happy none the less).

Mike

"...A 2 ton engine crane is built on a 4 castor base with about a 2 ton carrying capacity."

Indeed

(I see I took this photo on 16-Nov last year - nearly had a year at this now).

Mike

PS and unrelated. Anybody else think there should be a Hurricane Jules out there?

I wish to modify my earlier answer (17-May). Unless there has been a new print run (?), my local WH Smith has just put out its stock of '300 Years of the Steam Engine', so I bought my copy today. Rural life eh?

(Acutually I'm just back from a holiday and missed all of the 'Self Adulation' thread. Figuring that good luck comes in three's, I bought a lottery ticket at the same time.)

OK. Back to the workshop ; the gym can wait a while longer.

Mike

Let's try and brighten a rainy (UK) Monday morning by taking a look at this and noting the position of Engineers in a Trust/Don't Trust survey of 12 professions.

Mike

PS OK, I'm a bit miffed that we were pushed out of a medal winning position by teachers, but Terry and other teachers on this forum can take a well deserved round of applause.

Just wanted to say thank you to the many contributors.

For any future readers of this thread, I can report that I have now twice successfully used the method described by David above. Sligthly tedious, particularly on the 3 jaw, but effective. The comments about timber/ 'chuck board' were also good.

Thanks, Mike

I've come to a task I have not had to do / seen before; I'm hoping for some help to find out show it should be done.

Previously when I've changed chucks they have been 'screw on' types. The lathe I have at the moment has a short parallel section sticking out from what I'll call a backplate on the head spindle. The chuck is an interference fit on this parallel section, with 3 studs to retain it to the backplate.

Having loosened the nuts on the studs (they won't come off completely until the chuck is part removed) the problem I'm facing is separating the chuck from the spindle as it is a (nice) tight fit.

I have done it, but I'm underwhelmed with the method I used. How should it be done?

Thanks,

Mike

As you asked... Tried my local WHS (mid Hampshire ) - not on display today. Mike

Richard,

Welcome to the forum!

I think you have done all the right things so far - mainly because they are broadly similar to what I did . I have also benefited from are getting an opportunity to drive an engine on a track, confirming that I am interested in both building and running a model locomotive. And I have made contact with other members of this forum in my local area, learning loads from visiting them in their workshops.

When I was faced with your question, the answer I chose was to build something I want to own, in my case a modest 5" gauge locomotive, just because personally I cannot muster any enthusiasm for the 'standard' training pieces or engine kits. I'm 4 months in and have not so far regretted my decision; there are lots of components I've treated as training pieces (the Buffer beams have been been built twice , don't ask) before moving on to the more expensive parts. The benefit is that once I have completed a component to my satisfaction, I am a small step nearer to what I want to achieve.

I'm sure there will be other answers to your question, it's all just a matter of choosing which one suits you, your budget, your objective and your time available.

Best regards

Mike