Stuart 10H and 10V build thread

Hi There
Welcome to the build thread for a Stuart 10H and 10V. This thread is all about how to build the two engines using a small home workshop.

I have a Warco WM180 lathe and a Warco WM14 milling machine. Also available are a Warco bandsaw, a Clarke variable speed pillar drill, a bench grinder, a Clarke vertical linisher/ disc sander, a power scroll saw, an engraving machine and an Oldak production tapper.

The engines will be made using the Warco lathe and mill and the vertical drilling machine. Photos of the machines will be added as we go through the series.

You may comment as you wish, I have a thick skin having been editor of both ME and MEW for many years.

You are welome to copy the posts and photos for personal use only.

The 10V casting set is on the left and the 10H set is on the right.

First I have to clean off any flash and remove the casting feeds on both engine bases and bedplates.

Andy at Stuart Models has kindly given me permission to include copies of the 3D exploded diagrams of both the 10V and 10H engines.

I have no connection with Stuart Models other than being a satisfied user.

STUART MODELS
Grove Works
West Road
Bridport
Dorset
DT6 5JT

Tel: 01308 456 859
Fax: 01308 458 295

Email sales (at) stuartmodels.co.uk

Exploded 3D view of 10V vertical engine above.

Exploded 3D view of 10H horizontal engine above.

If you click on the drawings they should enlarge to enable easy reading.

I will use Stuart's part numbers if I need to refer to parts..

Edited By JasonB on 17/11/2015 19:24:46

Looking forward to following this build, I have a Stuart 7V to put together when I get the workshop sorted so I expect to pick up plenty of good info from this.

Bert

I am looking forward to following this thread, I have an ancient 10H Kit hiding somewhere, it might actually get started one day!

Ooooh goody; I have a 10V, an S50, & a Progress set of castings to get started on, probably in the new year now. Looking forward to tips, methodology & info' from your build eagerly.

George.

I am also looking forward to this thread. I have a sleeve valve aero engine, a 3 cylinder poppet valve aero engine and a steam feed pump all in part build and help and inspiration in "how-to" methods of machining and work holding from your build will be much appreciated.

Chris

Thank You all for your kind comments. I have an S50 somewhere and will also do the Stuart oscillator and Progress further down the line.

Good on you David, I look forwards to following progress.

Neil

Hi David,

Really looking forward to seeing your build thread as I have started a 10H as well as an S50 and stopped as due to inexperience have gone back to building a few engines from stock material.

However, will be watching with great interest to both builds and no doubt asking questions when faced with uncertainties on my own builds, which I am documenting but not yet publishing and I don t want to hijack this very promising threads of yours.

Mike

.

I shall follow with interest.

Nick

Hi Mike bondarczuk Feel free to ask questions even if I have not covered a particular component. I have machined Stuart components before.

The 3D Exploaded views have been moved to the first post to make it easier to find them when refering back to part numbers

J

Edited By JasonB on 17/11/2015 19:26:09

When refering to the Stuart exploded views, I will use the Stuart part Nos suffixed by either V for vertical or H for horizontal.

The photo above shows the 10H box bed part No 29H and the main casting 11H. There is a fair bit of flash to remove but this does not take very long.

The photo above shows the 10V box bed part No 30V and the bedplate part No 29V. There is some flash to be trimmed off as well as a casting lug to file off.

The photo above shows the main trunk guide part No 11V. This is a separate part in the vertical engine but is an integral part of the main bed casting in the 10H. Note the two large casting lugs that will need filing off later.

Three missing "V" suffix added by JasonB

Edited By JasonB on 18/11/2015 20:47:01

Cleaning up the 10V box bed.

I held the 10V box bed in the vice to file off the lug and true the bottom up. I used some cardboard in the vice to protect the casting. A better bet would be some aluminum angle soft jaws which I will get at the weekend. I completely removed the lug and filed the base fairly flat.

I used a flat file on the base and sides of the casting and a round file on the sides of the mounting lugs,

After filing the base flat I coated the lower face with black permanent marker. (A sharpie marker pen.)

Then I rubbed the base on a piece of wet and dry paper to remove the marker pen from the high spots. Repeat this sequence, lightly filing away the shiny high spots, until the base is completely flat.

You could rub the top surface down flat and end mill the underside instead if you wish but it does not take long to rub the bottom face completely flat.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 18/11/2015 20:32:16

Looking forward to this David as I have a 10D rebuild to do at some point.

Cylinder machining was rough as with screw holes breaking through the sides.

2 new castings arrived a couple of weeks ago but still to find time to even look at them.

Bruce

I have deleted several posts.

It is worth remembering that beginners may never have been taught how to use a file as metal working is not taught in schools, one only needs to read Brian John's posts to see how little some beginners know.

As this is not the magazine and you are not paying to look at it there is no problem with David using as many photos as he likes.

Now back to the build, considered comments still welcome.

Edited By JasonB on 19/11/2015 08:14:21

Well done JasonB, beginners need to be encouraged, we can do without the negative comments.

The 10V/10H build may well be a simple build for many, others like me need all the help we can get.

Very brave of you Dave, keep the thread going, I for one will learn a great deal.

Howard

Filing is not difficult. With the base above, just file off the lug and then file the base flat. To file flat try and file the base hollow using the flat face of a file. It is difficult if not impossible to file hollow so the result will be a flat surface possibly with a bow. That is where the felt tip and wet and dry come in. By coating the casting's edge and then rubbing on the wet and dry paper the high spots will show as shiny bits while the low spots will retain the marker pen. Keep lightly removing the high spots, recoating and rubbing on the wet and dry paper. Eventually you will have a flat casting. I will cover milling the 10H base casting later on.

I will use whatever photos that are needed to show the individual operations, the quantity will reduce as we go through the build.

Edited By David Clark 1 on 19/11/2015 09:11:45

Should be interesting. I have built the 10H and 10V and am now building the Score.Out of interest the 10H cost £12.19 at the Model Engineering Exhibition in 1983

Just finished the "core build" on my first model, which is a 10V. I am currently at the "running in" stage before I strip down for finishing. i will be following with interest to see how how the various tasks are tackled.

Hi David.

Thank you for writing this build thread. I am at the same position as Stuart.

I learnt a lot from Harold Hall's 10V MEW articles and web-site. I feel sure that I will learn some more from another editor of MEW!

Ron