Workshop heating

My workshop is about 10' x 12' of single leaf block construction with a tiled roof, there is no insulation whatsoever. This winter it has been too cold for me to do work out there, I can heat it electrically but all the metal objects stay cold and I get cold handling them. Any thoughts on what to do?

Thanks, Phil

I would insulate the outside with cladding over the top of the insulation.

Batten the wall with battens the same thickness as the insulation, Celotex/Kingspan, then a breathable membrane, another batten min 25mm to allow an air gap with the cladding fixed to this batten. Could also be done on the inside but you'd lose some space and by doing it on the external face you will reduce the rain/water penetration which you get on single skin. Roof space should be reasonably easy to insulate from the inside dependant on roof structure.

As with all things cost may be a consideration.

Bob

The only real answer is insulation. I spoilt myself with my shed..some 24x15 concrete base with 4in of celotex within the base. Timber framed with plastic cladding (no need to paint), a vapour barrier, 4in celotex all round including the ceiling and lined with 1/2 in ply and double glazed. 10mins after lighting the woodburner I have to bank in down, crack a window open and work in a t-shirt. The biggest cost was the celotex but frankly the power saving and comfort more than make up for that. Also zero condensation and zero corrosion.

There are cheaper, less easy and less efficient and less fire safe insulation options .. from egg trays to packaging beads where the budget needs apply.

When I was in the UK I kept a cloth cover on the lathe with a 60 W bulb in the cabinet stand. That stopped the condensation and kept the fingers from freezing.

Russell

Just for interest- I lost the roof of my w/shop a few weeks ago and the weather has not been good , N Scotland. been in this morning to prep. for roof fixing tomorrow. Roof insulation 2" foam has kept the very worst of the rain and snow out, the floor-flooring grade chipboard (suitable for damp areas ) is rotten in places and will need replacing. I had drilled 1/2" holes in floor to let the worst out. The main thing is there is no rust ! Everything was sprayed with WD40 and loosely covered with bubble wrap, only rust was on fresh turned steel stood in water. Just as well i bought 5ltrs of the stuff. I realise it is early days but fingers crossed. Will put heater and de-humidifier in next week when roof is back on. Sorry for typing but fingers dead.

How long do you think you will live? Good insulation is the key but not if you only have a couple of years left.

Draughtproof 100%, as in use foam spray in anything that looks like a gap around the ceiling and properly seal the doors, but provide ventillation for when you are in there . Then use a dehumidifier instead of a radiator as it will recover heat from damp air not just the electricity you use. When in there use a fan heater to heat up the air and your feet quickly and a radiant heater on a stand to aim at your hands and whatever your hands are touching. Convectors and oiled filled radiators are the worst as they just heat the ceiling. You may be able to rig some shower curtains to subdivide the space which will make a big difference to temporary heating like this.

Having a nice cosy workshop may help prolong ones life

Bob

I can only assume it is phycological but my garage is uninsulated and single brick but I find if the door is shut and there is heat on my back I can get along nicely.

Martin P

Hi,

I too have a single brick garage with a felt roof and yes it has been very cold recently.

Many years ago, I used to spray my machine's bright parts with WD40: this worked in keeping the dreaded rust at bay, but was terribly smelly.

At some point, and now I don't know how, I came across some self-regulating heaters from RS Components, part no 360-4059 although they now seem to call them Enclosure Heaters. I mounted two on the lathe - no more corrosion and even in the depths of winter the lathe no longer has that bone chilling heat absorbing coldness about it. I've also fitted one to my milling machine although I'm not too sure about the efficiency of the heat transfer method I used. Both machines are kept covered by a cloth and a piece of plastic when not in use so these also help to hold the heat in.

The downside is that although nominally 10W, I have found that they are quite correctly working at nearer 19W hence for the lathe there is a constant 38W electric drain.

As far as I go, I use a fan heater, and a convector heater to at least get the air temperature somewhere reasonable. Plus the obligatory woolly hat, scarf, and ever so old padded coat.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

Few years ago I used a greenhouse heater ran on paraffin stopped all the condensation and was safe to leave on 24/7

Thanks for your thoughts all, useful

I think I am going to put in a ceiling and put about 2" of Cellotex type insulation on the back, I will draught proof the door and then have an oil filled radiator on time switch and thermostat. I will paint the ceiling white to chuck light around and have a 'loft' hatch for access.

Hopefully this will reduce cold time next winter and improve the workshop overall, it might be cooler in summer as well but I manage this with a fan

Cheers, Phil

I borrowed my wifes hairdryer (honestly), its good up full for room heating then turn it down and point it at my hands, works a treat!

Move to SE Asia. My problem is not condensation or cold hands, but sweat... Finish any job, any project, everything gets wiped down with oily kitchen roll inc machine tools. Or else whatever i have touched is rusty in the morning. Is the main reason ANYTHING i make in steel has a hot oil blackened finish.

.

Shop now running at a lovely 40 degrees but in all fairness as it's such a lovely day I have to door open.

Still need to run the stove to keep the machines warm, it probably take until early April before they achieve a reasonable constant day / night temperature. If this is kept to then I have no problems with rust etc and this is in an uninsulated workshop [ at the moment ] and I never oil to prevent rust.

Unlike some heating methods like propane, wood heat is a dry heat.

Phil, I have a little spreadsheet for calculating heating. If you put 2 inch all round you will require about 300W when its freezing outside, once up to temperature. With ceiling only you are looking at more like 800W but it is more difficult to get solid bare walls to temperature so you will tend to feel colder.