Member postings for Phil Catchesides

I posted earlier but it seems to be missing - Tim called me earlier to say boiler is tested and ready. His problems seem to have been order overload and, perhaps, optimism. The only drawing issue we have had related to understanding the drawing and we got there in the end but he said 'Locomotion' was a difficult boiler (first time for Tim) even though it is low pressure - 60psi working.

CVS is still booked in for the Bristol show as a trader - interesting to see if he turns up and if so to hear what he has to say for himself. The website shows no changes / problems. I am sticking with my order for now, certainly until after the show

I spoke to him early this year and we resolved an issue with the 'Locomotion' drawings and he was going ahead with the build in the following week , also he was going to check with Reeves to check to see if any drawing amendments had been made; I didn't pick up any hint of problems. Just hope there isn't illness, accident or bereavement. I am still hoping he comes back so haven't made any other boiler build arrangements but have parked Locomotion for now and making an IC engine (Matador 60/60) instead.

Needing some good quality ali for con rods I begged a pair of redundant bike cranks from a friend and set to work on the vertical mill. I quickly got a problem which looked like the ali was 'melting' onto the cutter (a 3/16 slot drill running at about 2500 rpm) when doing a .050 cut. No lubricant was used but I had no problems drilling. Was I doing something wrong (speed, cut ?) or what grade of ali should I buy from where ? I would need about .5" square (or .75 round) by about 2" long to make each con rods from. I have recently done the crankcase nose in unspecified ali with no issues

Thanks all for your thoughts. Have tightened up where necessary, checked and set the tool height, sharpened the tool, put on tailstock support etc but it is still noisy / juddery and wanting to dig in. I am running at about 200 rom on about 1.25 inches diameter. The tool is a proprietary cutting off tool and appears to have side clearance. I'm getting there with the fins but I am not a happy bunny 'cos it's not right

This relates to 'Matador' but is fairly general. The cylinders are steel and the plunge cut (about 0.15 inches deep by 0.09 wide) needed to form the fins is a bit of a struggle - lots of noise and juddering. I am using a narrow parting blade on a Super 7 at slow speed but it is complaining. Any hints or tips please people

Realising that Matador 60-60 need 2 of the bigger gears I phoned Muffet and bought the last one - phew! Muffets say they no longer make these helical gears so unless anybody knows where else to get the specified gears we are stuck. Hope this post avoids somebody finding out the hard way after having done a lot of work

I have used CVS to make boilers for me and have one on order for 'Locomotion' but CVS isn't answering the phone or emails - does anybody know if Tim is poorly or the company has gone or whatever. It would be a great shame to loose CVS as Tim is an excellent craftsman

Got some alloy cranks from a bikey friend (allegedly quite serious money when new but one is slightly bent), cut down and machined (nice stuff to machine) into con rod blanks. Good to go ! Any other bits I need to worry about ? Phil

I think a friend may have bike cranks, I only need a bit for the con rods so can hack it out of a crank but if this fails then thanks for spec

Bearings and gears have arrived - how can you make and sell (at a profit) a ball race for £1 - and some bar stock ordered with bits needed for 'Locomotion'. The book is on its way so in a couple of days I will be an expert ! I won't be starting right now but I like to make sure I have hard to source bits in my hand before spending time. One question; the drawing says the connecting rod is made from 'dural' which is presumably an aluminium alloy - where do I get this from and exactly what is it ?

Just fancy doing something completely different, have decided on 6060 matador and sitting in the lounge researching bits. Always worked in aerospace so that could be why. I would love to have the Bently but too hard and too long a project for me

HPC looks good, will hit the magic tellingbone tomorrow. Now for the bearings. Was thinking of getting something similar second hand off ebay to get a feel for these things, my level of ignorance is profound - which way round do they run (the prop will tell me, must get one), what oil, what fuel ? Is there a model aero engine for dummies book?

Problem, Muffetts no longer do the specified gears and don't know of anyone who does - any ideas?? Phil

I got the plans for Matador and it looks about right for difficulty - some parts where I think how the heck do I make that. Is there any problem getting the little bearings ? What is meant by lapping and honing as mentioned in 1 post ? I haven't done that with steam - I use 'O' rings. Regards, Phil

Thanks all, some good leads and will go for bar stock design

I am a reasonably experienced engine builder (locos and stationary steam) and fancy doing an I/C next, probably aero engine style. Any thoughts and where do I get plans? Thanks, Phil

Thanks for thoughts. I have decided to use a heavy oil / wax and mask the axle so the oil goes where it is supposed to, I will also put oil on the inner face of the wheel and apply Loctite carefully inside the wheel with a cotton bud. Only one wheel has an eccentric and I will do this wheel first, if it goes wrong it can go in the oven without much loss. If it works then, after sorting out the coupling rod, I will pin the wheels from the front face with 1/8 silver steel. I will let you know how I get on, probably in a week or two as I still have to make the crank pins and these have spherical ends on the drawing ! Thanks again, Phil

Good thoughts everyone; I won't do press fit as I haven't got a press, my chances of getting it right first time are slim and it can't be undone. Nail varnish (or Tippex) seems good, worth considering. Candle wax sounds very promising, my choice at the moment. The wheels would be pinned with 1/8th silver steel rod when coupling rods are fitted and wheels still go round so super strong bond not too important, 1" dia. cylinders at 50psi not too challenging either

The geometry is such that the eccentric fits snugly between the wheel and a shoulder on the axle, no possibility of assembly after sticking the wheel. I thought of oil but either the oil or the loctite is bound to get somewhere it's not wanted