Silver solder resist

Is type correction fluid, e.g. Tippex, the thing for this?

John B

Yes.

Yes, yes. It works. If you have doubts use more than one coat.

After Dave's reply.

JA

Best if it is the solvent based one.

Best stock up on it, typewriters are probably a thing of the past.

+1 for Tippex, a lead pencil also works fairly well.

Is solvent based Tip-ex still available? Solvent used was Trichlorethane, H and S and all that garbage.

Regards Ian.

A "paint" made with jeweller's rouge and water, applied with a brush, works too.

Best regards,

Massimo

Yes but now has a different solvent  here

Edited By JasonB on 07/12/2021 10:20:25

Thanks for that Jason, seems due to all the precautions stated, Tip-ex shouldn't be exposed to any heat source and Naptha has a slower evaporation rate than Trike.

Regards Ian.

When I was working we used to use a Nikrobraz stop off pen, very similar to a felt tip pen, it deposited a very light green liquid a bit thinner than Tippex on to the work, we have were using it in a vacuum furnace and it worked perfectly every time. Just need now to find someone who sells the pens in small quantities.

Years ago when Men were men, plumbers would wipe a lead pipe and under ground cable jointers would make a live joint, they used "Plumbers Black" as a resist. It came In a Yellow tin, they would dribble, a drop of water on to the black and paint it onto the pipe to make a very neat connection. After the work, the residual would wash off. I live where it was made and sold, and have tried for several years to find out what it composed of. Certainly effective at high temperature and cheap in 1950/60's. I'm sure it would be a good alternative to Tippex and no solvent involved. Does a forum member know what the Black was composed of ? John

I've regularly used Tipp-Ex when soldering. Yes, it emits a green smoke when heated and an unpleasant smell, but I can live with that, or at least I have done so far.

Massimo's suggestion is probably the best one from a safety standpoint. It just requires a bit more work to keep some mixed up and ready for use.

Edited By Bill Phinn on 07/12/2021 15:49:33

I found this reference via google:

‘plumber’s black’ –

a masking fluid made of size (animal skin glue),

whiting and lamp black mixed together to a

creamy consistency

Henley's 20th Century Formulas, Processes and Trade Secrets says:

a protective mass consisting essentially of carbon (graphite, coke or charcoal), powdered talc or asbestos, ferric hydrate (with or without ferrous hydrate) and, if desired a little Aluminium Oxide, together with a a binding agent of the customary kind (glue solution, beer).

Example recipe: Graphite, 50 parts; powdered coke, 5 parts; powdered talc, 5 parts, glue solution, 2.5 parts; drop beer, 2.5 parts; ferric hydrate, 10 parts; aluminium oxide, 5 parts.

By glue, they mean animal glue made from bone and sinew. Drop Beer seems to be low-alcohol beer, less than 0.5%

I could only find Ferric Hydrate - modern name Iron(iii) Hydroxide - sold as a laboratory reagent. £104 for 5g, ouch!

Might be possible to make your own cheaply by mixing garden centre Iron Sulphate with Caustic Soda. I don't suppose it needs to be pure.

Dave

I'm also with Massimo on this one.

Jewellers rouge lasts forever and is easily mixed with a little water and if it goes dry in storage just add a little more water.

Works a treat and is low cost - £4 for 50g (eBay) which will last for a lot of soldering.

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Chalk and charcoal ground up with a little bit of meths will make usable plumbers black.

Neil

Recently I couldn't find Tippex brand locally, so tried W H Smiths own solvent brand it works just as well as the genuine article and turns out to be much cheaper too!

Dave

Many thanks Dave for the list of ingredients for PLUMBERS BLACK, I'll give it a try and let you know how I get on. In the means time I'll give Jewellers rouge a go. John