War o wm18

I have a wm18 milling machine. Recently the tooling has become difficult to free from the morse taper. It used to take a slight tap with a hammer to free the tooling. Now I am having to give it a bit more than I like to free the tooling. As I only really use a collet chuck and various drill chucks I am thinking of leaving the collet chuck in place and fitting a drill chuck with a parallel adaptor, thereby not needing to remove anything from the morse taper.

Does anyone know of a supplier of drill chucks with straight adaptors?

Bri

Edited By Boiler Bri on 03/04/2019 21:30:58

YsAAOSw~WtbjRO-&frcectupt=true">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Straight-Shank-Drill-Chuck-Arbor-1-2-Dia-B16-Ref-41005036/372424420746?hash=item56b639ad8a:gYsAAOSw~WtbjRO-&frcectupt=true

I just used B16 as all my chucks seem to be B16, I think Arc Euro also sells some obscure drilling adapters, I think they even had a female MT2 to straight shank for using MT2 drill bits in a cordless drill.

You can make the drawbar captive, then it releases with a couple of spanners instead of the big hammer.

That said I made 20mm adapter for the boring head and made or bought one for a drill chuck.

So the er32 chuck stays in 99% of the time.

Ebay

How about this ?

RDG Tools

Why bother with the drill chuck at all. I nearly always use the drill bit directly in my ER collets. Works for me, saves changing chucks and gives a bit more headroom. I don't know if it is an "approved" method but can't see any drawbacks.

John

The question I would ask is why are the tapers sticking?

Assuming the tools are the same temperature as the mill, a couple of reasons I can think of are. The tapers are getting rough/scored or the spindle bearing is getting too warm.

Dirt or grit in the tapers; clean out the tapers, see if you can feel any scores in the spindle taper, have a look at the tool taper to see if any indication of scoring, embedded grit on taper etc.

George.

Thank you for the replies. Tapers are all in good condition and i always lubricate them at change

The adaptors will be fine

Cheers

Brian

Ooo, is lubricating the problem? I only wipe mine with a clean cloth. Don't know if that's right or not - it just seemed sensible not to lubricate a taper that's intended to not turn.

I wonder what the effect of oil in the taper is? My guess is the drawbar has to be pulled tighter than otherwise and then the oil tends to be squeezed out leaving a tight un-lubricated metal-to-metal bond.

What do others do and think?

Dave

I only put a small amount of oil on and spread it around.

Been doing it a long time. Problem has only started recently

Bri

I was taught to not oil, just wipe clean with your hand.

If the problem has just started happening, then something must have changed. Have you bought new oil? Damage/dirt in the taper? Temperature changes; Are your tapers colder than the mill? Is the spindle bearing getting warm? Are your cutters blunt so you are using more pressure to cut?

Adrian

Do you use a soluble or other cutting oil ? The steam from these when warm can tarnish the steel and leave a sticky but dry coating. I used to run a Colchester 2000 lathe where the slideways on the bed needed cleaning to prevent the saddle feeling tight after using coolant.

New one on me; have never used oil on Morse tapers in all of my 55 yrs in the engineering industry, always checked tapers for burrs, embedded grit, scores, if all good then only wiped clean then pushed together. IIRC you can get a taper cleaner from ArcEuro / Chronos, usual disclaimer.

George.

The cold is a thought. With my engine nearing completion i have been using the miller in the cold which i rarely do sometimes never in the winter. So it may be ok as the weather improves.

I will wait and see as my flurry of use is over at the moment

The oil is only light oil which is used in oil baths and drip feeder etc Millers which is good quality  

Bri

Edited By Boiler Bri on 05/04/2019 09:45:53

It may be that after long use slight wear has made the commonly used tapers an even better fit.

Some form of elector system is the answer.

Neil

Here's a link for you to look at...

**LINK**

There are also you tube videos on taper cleaning tools etc.

George.

Edited By mechman48 on 05/04/2019 10:20:06

Not having a captive drawbar, I removed the nut (LH thread) retaining the pulley to the spindle. Turned back the under side, to form a register . Bolted a plate with two tapped holes further out, on opposite sides.

Fit to machine so that the plate is seated on the register on the underside of the nut.

Made up a plate with two clearance holes to match the spacing of the tapped holes, but with a central tapped hole.

M6 should suffice, I used 1/4 BSF threads, in 3mm plate

When it comes time to change the tool: Slacken drawbar by a turn or so, attach upper plate with two bolts, tighten central forcing screw. Taper usually separates, without need to thump the bearings on the quill. If it doesn't, a light tap on the tight forcing screw does the trick.

Howard

I left the heater on last night all night instead of once every hour for quarter of an hour I think it helped being warmer.

I will look up the taper cleaners

Thanks for all the help

Bri

Uuumm ....

At the risk of appearing daft, what is an elector system ?

ATB