Member postings for Pete.

No, two ranges of M&W micrometers are still made in Sheffield.

You've done everything correctly so far, stick the highest rating fuse that will physically fit in there so you don't have to waste time opening it up again.

A H16 sounds about the size you're looking for.

Sounds like an expanding hand reamer is what you're looking for, not particularly expensive at that size, buy a decent one if you're using it for work not hobby.

They are a bit on the pricey side, I used to buy most of my stuff from someone selling it privately on behalf of an official dealer at seriously knocked down prices, because they have areas their franchise is only allowed to operate in, so whoever it was just got a friend to sell it for them.

All my hand tools have paid for themselves by avoiding garage fees, having worked briefly in a garage when I first left school I've seen first hand the attitude some have to the unaware and ignorant regarding pricing of jobs, and the standard of work by people you wouldn't trust checking your tyre pressures, sadly it's still an industry that attracts a lot of unscrupulous people so I'll continue doing my own work and use it as an excuse to buy more toys, I means tools as and when not really but kinda needed.

So a sample of plated and stainless fasteners

Photo 1, 13mm plated bolt

Photo 2, 10mm plated bolt

Photo 3, 13mm stainless bolt

Photo 4, 14mm plated bolt

Photo 5, 11mm plated brake pipe union

Photo 6, 13mm plated brake pipe union

Photo 7, 13mm OEM bolt from BMW if my memory serves me.

Believe it or not, Snap On as a tool manufacturer knows what they're doing.

Never had that problem with them fitting, they're designed as specialist socket to stop rusty fasteners rounding off, after rusting they reduce in size slightly, they also do less visual damage to bolt heads that are aesthetic like motorcycle fasteners that you don't want looking marred up.

To save time just take a photo with a rule next to it for scale, the vertex catalogue at rotagrip doesn't have a 30mm boring head.

I apologise, I need to wait to be upgraded to Moderater status before making random off topic comments and calling people nutters, luckily Neil likes me 😂 so it won't be long.

If you're even semi serious about mechanical work it's best to keep every possible fastener type socket to hand, a good selection of Snap On ratchets never hurt anyone either.

Torx Plus (IP) not the 5 sided are quite simply the best internal fasteners, they're amazing, there's probably a long list of reason manufacturers haven't switched over to using them as a norm, hex fasteners are decided by manufacturer quality and the quality of sockets used on them too, I've given a few of my sockets a rough measure.

The top photo is a Snap Flank drive FDX 16mm socket, these are made to precise tolerances, and show exactly 16mm.

The second photo is a middle of the road 14mm impact socket that shows 14.2mm

The third photo is a 12mm Taiwanese blue point socket showing 12.2mm.

The fourth photo is a standard snap on flank drive 16mm showing 16.14mm

Nothing wrong with that, my car gets an oil and filter change every hundred thousand miles whether it needs it or not, it's only £25 and 20 minutes work so why not?

Society would be pretty screwed without knives.

Did he suggest you should carry it around with you in the UK?

Because an opinion on dead blow hammers was asked for.

Because a specific task was mentioned, tapping work down in a vice, my copper mallet leaves copper smeared on what I use it on, so it wouldn't be my first choice for using on workpiece.

I use both for different things, dead blow hammers come with many different faces, because it has a dead blow feature shouldn't change the face material chosen for a specific task, I don't use my copper mallet for centre punching because it's a small area and digs in to the face, I do use my dead blow ball pein though.

Copper naturally absorbs shock it will always be better than plastic in this regard, if you want a copper version (didn't mention in original post) I would have recommended the copper faced version below, or rubber faced faced option etc...

Just someone who seems to spend an inordinate amount of time picking pedantic fault with anything and everything for the enjoyment of winding people up, the devil makes work for idle hands, very idle hands.

I do agree there are much better lathes out there, but the relative low cost of the machines on the second hand market and availability of cheap replacement parts means people learning have the confidence to try some creative projects that most would never consider on a more expensive machine, it helps beginners understand how machines work and aspects that make them work better, I find the creativity aspect of it quite fun seeing what people come up with.

Some highly opinionated views from someone who I've never seen upload a single photo of anything they've done in their workshop in the entire time I've been on this forum, where do such strong opinions come from?

You should upload some photos of your modifications, I'm mulling over ideas for my project mini lathe, I have a couple of ideas I don't think I've seen anyone else do, but these machines are so heavily modified by so many people it's quite possible someone somewhere has already done it.

There's a young German lad with a channel called "we can do that better" who almost exclusively does videos on modifying his mini lathe, he's done a few nice additions well worth taking a look.