Advice needed on UV-light cured adhesives

Hello

I am looking for advice on what is the best UV light cured adhesive to bond glass onto glass/metal/model-making plastics such as ABS/PolyStyrene.
It must be optically flat, resist yellowing and be reasonaly robust and impact-resistant.

What adhesive should I use? And can you recommend a low cost UV light source?

Many thanks

J

Windscreen replacement business is likely a good place to try.

Daylight is likely good enough light source (in the summer?).

Can't help much as I get it done by the Glaziers that I use. certainly strong stuff, I often have thick glass shelves bonded to mirrors and they take a lot of weight and no sign of yellowing after time

Edited By JasonB on 25/01/2018 17:58:33

Talk to your dentist

Brian

Or whatever they use for fish tanks...

Hi

The adhesive shown here looks pretty good. That said I have not used it and am going on what is shown on te web page.

HTH

PS (edit)

50gm bottle available on Amazon for about £23, if it is as good as the video on the Nano site then it is ideal for bonding glass to glass and to metal.

Edited By Martin W on 25/01/2018 19:25:31

That would be Silicone.

Thanks. Yes, the Nano470 does look amazingly strong for glass-glass and glass-metal. Also nice that it doesn't seem to need a UV light. Ordinary visible light seems to work.

However it's one weakness is that he admitted that it started to go hazy/milky once it started to cure. So any join to glass will still be very visible.

Silicone rubber would be too flexible for me.

Cheers

J

There was a stand at the London show demo'ing a UV cured adhesive. Sold in a rocket-shaped dispenser with a UV emitting LED built in. If you can see a copy of the show guide somewhere you might be able to track 'em down.

Or this? https://homgar.com/products/blufixx-bondic-glue?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsYuj9YT12AIV7LXtCh3_wwz_EAQYASABEgL1DvD_BwE

And **LINK**

Alternatively a friend who turns wood uses a spray-cured isocyano adhesive?

But Google is your friend - loads of info on these.

Edited By John Haine on 26/01/2018 06:55:57

I was given one of those pen shaped containers with built in UV light, only tried it once and did not work too well. Items were not transparent so light penitration would have been minimal but they do show it being used fort all sorts, maybe the UV is a catalyst that starts the setting process. Called 5secondfix

This might be worth a go for not much money, although I've never tried it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Glass-Windscreen-Repair-Kit-Fix-Chip-Crack-easily-and-quickly/271506506233?hash=item3f370c81f9:m:mqEgPENHeCc86LpH_SgM9VA

Don Cox

Often, but not always.

There's Lazer Bond from JML (available at all good branches of the Range - talk yours to the checkout now!) which is a really good adhesive BUT doesn't set glass clear, which is why I didn't mention it. I find it great for fiddly model bits that need holding in place longer than is convenient for cyano or if you need gap filling or a small fillet for strength.

I've used a UV cure superglue to stick a rear view mirror back on to the car windscreen.

Only worked on a sunny day.

I used Loctite Glass Bond, it came in a 3 ml plastic tube. It was used to rebuild a fish tank that had started to fail. Originally held together with Silicon.

It was cured using natural sunlight, did it in the morning, left it all day in the sun, and filled it the next day, the fish seemed happy.

Don't know where you are, but the cheapest source of UV is the sun, I'v got sun to spare these days, 30*C + these days.

Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 26/01/2018 10:54:45

Might be worth checking out UV crystal cement for bonding mineral watch glasses, most of the watch parts houses such as H.S.Walsh, Cousins and Meadows & Passmore sell it.
Sets rock hard and doesn't yellow.

John.

UK version:

It was cured using natural sunlight, did it in the morning, left it out for a bit, and filled it the next leap year, the fish seemed happy.

I've used light set dental materials. Usually provided as a thin liquid to line the cavity..indeed the instructions were to coat then blow out x/s with oil-free air befre setting and then layering/shaping the coloured paste on top. I doubt it'd be suitable for the OP's application alone.. you'ld need near perfect gap-free surfaces.

Howvere on one ocassion i had the light-set tool die during a job and had total success just using the fibre-guide light source from an endoscopy unit (halogen bulb)

I use UV cured adhesive for wire tacking when repairing or modifying PCBs, I have a LED UV torch and also a laser UV pen (from Banggood). The adhesive I mostly use is one that described a 'doming' type, which I purchased from Permabond in the UK (they have an online retail website) and they have quite a few different types of UV glues.

Ian P

Rubbish. Go into any Aquarium shop and all the glass tanks will be bonded with Silicone.