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Rust and how to remove it.

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websnail19/07/2011 23:07:50
62 forum posts
I used the fizzy drink method on my vernier height gauge. It's now readable. Very happy.
 
Surface plate not done yet. No spare time.
 
The Hydrochloric acid method I will use on some rusty drills at the weekend.
Tendor20/07/2011 05:09:20
39 forum posts
5 photos
I just use cheap "white vinegar" from the supermarket - about AU$1 per litre. One day for light rust, two or more for heavy and mill scale. Reused until the acetic acid weakens.
BTW, the acid in Coka Cola is Phosphoric acid.
RDE.
David Clark 120/07/2011 08:34:39
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3357 forum posts
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10 articles
Hi Rodney
Does the vinegar etch into the metal or just dissolve the rust?
I assume you dip the component into the vinegar.
I am thinking larger components, possibly making a moat with plasticene to contain the vinegar.
Has any one tried this?
regards David
Ian S C20/07/2011 11:12:15
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7468 forum posts
230 photos
John, thats about what I thought it would be.
CB, you'll be able to rejuvinate all those old blunt files under the bench, after a soak, rinse, them in washing soda, and if your not going to use them lightly oil them , wrapthem up and put away. Ian S C
John Stevenson21/07/2011 00:24:01
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5068 forum posts
3 photos
Dropped a file in today for 1/2 a day, doesn't look any different but it does cut a bit better, mind you it was a crap file anyway.
 
Need to get one that's worth doing and not one with bald patches [ like it's owner <g> ]
 
Never though about files, thanks for the nudge..
 
John S.
Tendor21/07/2011 02:58:22
39 forum posts
5 photos
Hi David,
The steel will emerge from the vinegar (after a rub with a cloth under the tap) with a matt grey appearance and so I'm guessing some minor etching occurs. It needs to be washed immediately as the surface is active to air. Some etching is not really a problem to me since the rusty item has already had its surface compromised. Mostly it will subsequently be machined or painted anyway. The larger rust falls off in flacks, as does the mill scale.
The items are fully sumerged. I have a collection of old plastic containers for the job. For example, a file or large drill could be submerged vertically in a soft drink bottle. The vinegar is poured in after placement and decanted back into its own container afterwards.
I've used this for many years but I vaguely recall reading of it in an old ME mag from maybe the 1970's? As I recall it advocated a solution of table salt in vinegar. I tried that but later dispensed with the salt as it seemed to make little difference.
RDE
 
IanT21/07/2011 09:47:42
2147 forum posts
222 photos
Since I cannot see anyone else has mentioned it here - i will add that I like to use tea-bags to de-rust small things.
 
An old ice-cream tub, add 4-5 tea bags (I often re-cycle old ones) then add hot water to make your 'brew'. Pop in the object to be treated and leave it overnight. The "tea" will turn black and the rust will wash off under the tap. If it's not as good as you want - tip the old solution away and make a fresh brew and repeat.
 
For very heavily rusted parts, a solution of kitchen soda (in a bucket or bowl - I've also used window planters for longer bits) can be used with a battery charger to remove the rust with minimal loss of metal. The object to be treated is conneced to one connector and the other one is connected to a steel sheet - the two objects must not touch or short out. Not sure how or why it works but it does...
Stub Mandrel21/07/2011 21:41:11
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4318 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles
I have an old engineering book that has advice on file re-sharpening. Various nasty acids (mixtures of sulphuric and nitric), but the tip is to take them out of the acid after a few minutes, wipe the acid off the tips of the teeth and let the acid etch the teeth a bit deeper, leaving the tips in place.
 
Another technique uses a complex formula, and you put the files in at an angle so a deposit builds up on the backs of the teeth to protect them, while the underside etches away.
 
Neil
ady21/07/2011 21:54:21
612 forum posts
50 photos
Does the vinegar etch into the metal or just dissolve the rust?
 
It turns rust into a kind of goo which scrubs off by hand(I wear marigolds), metal itself is unaffected.
I've dunked cast iron and steel parts up to 2 weeks in it, too busy or lazy to take it out.
Buy 10 litres for about a fiver at tesco kinda thing and fill a bucket up with it.
Big long flat bits like my topslides were done in a gardening tray.
Cover parts 100% to keep any oxygen away.
 
One old calibrated dial came out lovely, while its brother was too worn to be useful, any pitting is also exposed.
A quick scrub with a stiff plastic brush tells you the extent of penetration.

All those old guffy pultra parts in my album got done this way.
Rinse with water, dry thoroughly with paper towels, then I oil it all over to protect it.
 
It doesn't seem to evaporate completely either, I've had half a bucketful sitting in my garage for 6 months so far.
It IS an acid so I presume even vinegar will literally eat any metal which is left too long in the solution.
The big advantage is you can take your time with it and get a good result.
Just check the progress daily, top up any evaporation on longer jobs with more vinegar.
Saves a LOT of effort where rust is concerned, seems to be very effective, and is safe.
It also eventually eats your marigolds


Edited By ady on 21/07/2011 22:17:48

Mike22/07/2011 09:57:02
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713 forum posts
6 photos
Interesting that a dip in acid will sharpen a file - I shall have to try it with the collection in my scrap metal bin. That's how many fish hooks are finally sharpened. A fish hook starts off as a straight piece of soft steel wire, which is first ground to a needle point. It is then barbed, bent to shape, hardened and tempered, then tumbled for cleaning. Most of these processes tend to blunt it, so a final, controlled, dip in acid restores the sharpness of the point
David Hanlon22/07/2011 12:30:57
40 forum posts
Interesting topic. Typically I have used the battery charger/electrolysis method for derusting which has been very successful on old woodworking tools and a somewhat mistreated drill chuck (teenage son left it out in the rain for weeks!).
 
Some points :-
 
1. I found electrolysis is SLOW (hours/days, not minutes) larger the lump, longer the time, but effective, and while there may be some pitting where the rust has been, there is no loss of metal otherwise.
 
2. Thoroughly dry and coat the item (I use WD40) as soon as you take it out of the bath. The surface is now very, very clean (i.e. no protection AT ALL) and prone to corrosion.
 
3. Dispose of the residual gunk carefully, rumour has it that it can contain some nasties (such as chrome) .
 
Dave
Jo26/07/2011 14:52:05
198 forum posts
Tannic acid, better known as cold tea, is effective against the rust. It takes its time, about a week on a bad case, but is dirt cheap, hand friendly ( well it goes rather black after a week of doing its stuff and you may think otherwise of sticking your hand in), and it does not generate any nasty smells/fumes.
 
Jo
Jo26/07/2011 14:53:12
198 forum posts
Forgot to mention....milk and sugar are not required.
 
Jo
_Paul_26/07/2011 19:43:39
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543 forum posts
31 photos
Lol
 
Although im sure I read somewhere (poss Wiki) it said that tea dosent actually contain Tannic acid but Tannin?
 
Regards
 
Paul

Edited By David Clark 1 on 26/07/2011 21:54:20

The Merry Miller26/07/2011 20:09:21
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484 forum posts
97 photos
 
Digressing for a moment, does anybody know the best way to remove a thick coating of Tannin from the inside of my tea mug. My wife won't touch the mug anymore.
 
I tried putting it inside a powerful Ultrasonic cleaner the other day but although it was working it was taking ages to move just a tad, there must be a quicker way, like quick!!
 

David Clark 126/07/2011 21:55:25
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3357 forum posts
112 photos
10 articles
Hi There
Ariel soap powder and hot water will do the job.
regards David
 
The Merry Miller26/07/2011 22:29:46
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484 forum posts
97 photos
 
Thanks David, now to find some Ariel powder.

 
KWIL26/07/2011 23:15:42
3681 forum posts
70 photos
As will dishwasher powder and boilng water clean the tea stain from a mug/cup.Tannin is also used to "treat" the water in steel boilers to reduce rusting, it appears to coat the steel surface.
Nicholas Farr26/07/2011 23:17:47
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos
Hi, an over night soak in a solution washing soda should clean it, will clean out the teapot nicely as well, without the need for too much elbow grease. Just give it a good rinse next morning, and repeat if needed.
 
Regards Nick.
_Paul_27/07/2011 00:24:14
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543 forum posts
31 photos
The school of thought from my neck of the woods is that you never cleaned the teapot as it destroyed the flavour
 
(apologies for the ot post)
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