Member postings for _Paul_

Some 20+ years ago I bought a "NuTool" 5 speed drill press....what a waste of money it must have had around 1/8" of play with the quill fully extended.

I see that most of the ones you see in B&Q & Wickes etc. all these years later still use that same basic "NuTool" design (and very similar castings).

I finally got around to doing something with the NuTool drill and put a slitting saw through the casting and fitted a pinch bolt which fixed the play but while cutting the slot in it I had a good chance to see how really poor quality the castings etc. were.

Once completed I gave it away to my old mate Jeff Harris who has used it for some years now.

This site shows quite well whats involved Drill Press Mods

Paul

Nice job now get cutting some chips!

Paul

+1

Works great even on my old phone

FSWizard

If you can dry the roof a bit there are some good repair paints, IMHO the main two are "Cromapol" & "Acrypol" neither though are particularly cheap, and are not what I would class as a permanent repair.

Paul

They are quite good but had to buy two sets as SWMBO commandeered the first lot

Paul

I have heard of these things being used as bearing heaters for when you need to warm one up to aid fitting...

Personally when changing spindle bearings I balance mine on a 60w bulb (elf & safety police do not respond)

Paul

Thank you Michael your'e a star

£42 with shipping from Frosts

Brian,

Where in the Frost Catalogue is it? I cant find it anywhere

Regards

Paul

Bazyle, using the Eccentric Engineering supplied jig and instructions will only produce a sloping topped threading cutter, what do you use to produce a flat topped one? do you have some type of custom jig?

Paul

I have, I normally feed in using the compound set over to whatever angle the thread type dictates and it works fine but with two problems which stem from the quite steeply angled cutting face which make it difficult to line up the tool to the work using a conventional "thread gauge" and also the back face of the thread dosen't clean up so well as a flatter topped cutter when giving the final couple of "straight in" passes using the cross slide.

Does anyone else have a different threading technique when using one of these?

Paul

Clive,

Apologies for jumping on the bandwagon but I would love a copy of the Erskine controller circuit too

PM being sent.

Regards

Paul

Flying Fifer like you I thought they would be "carp" but surprisingly they aren't .... so as the price is low at the moment I ordered a second set... so then I now need something to put them in so made these:

Cut 2x blocks 25mm UHMW plastic shoved a 25mm drill through it 20x and then followed with a 32mm step drill which though not quite the right profile for the collet is close enough for a Sunday night.

Paul

Seems to be a bit of an Ebay "price war" on the cost of these things at the moment with a set of 19 collets now available for as low as £33.98 ER32 Collets UK Supply just had a set delivered (in less than three days) and so far the one's I have checked the runout is less than 0.001.

Did have one bad one though, the 16mm (16-15) collet looks like it had been mis-machined the photos show the unground jaw segments,

looks like it might have been initially machined a little oversize not leaving enough metal to finish grind to the correct final size.

Given that the collets work out to less than £1.80 each I wasn't too concerned about one bad one but contacted their customer support anyway.

Sadly they couldn't replace the individual collet as they only ship these items as packs of 19 however the seller quickly resolved with a £5 refund for the individual collet.

I must add that it seems that despite being shipped from a UK address that their customer support is most definitely "offshore".

Paul

Not taken a Makita chuck off in years but all the cheap ones I have removed lately the locking screw has been left hand and the chuck right hand thread so they lock together.

Might have some thread locking compound on it perhaps?

Paul

The Wimberley tool looks quite interesting but at a rather expensive $85 shipping to the UK plus the tool cost of $59 I'll wait or make one.

Paul

On my 1954 M1 the motor was 415v (Star) only, I had to open it up and pick out the Star point in the windings to convert to 220v (Delta).

It now runs fine on a Teco 1HP invterter.

Is your Mitsubishi inverter 415 or 230v output?

Paul

Must have forgot to lock the workshop door last night...."they" popeed in and helped themselves to my very nice Worx Lion hammer drill/driver and the spare battery and the charger....also took my 240v DA sander....not noticed anything else yet..

Still they walked past a lot of other high value items... I imagine just settling on the items that can be quickly sold in the pub or exchanged for a few grams of whatever...

Police gave me a crime number and the SOCO has been but I don't hold out any hope of seeing them again, going to cost @ £150 to replace, and then having seen the contents of the workshop I have no doubt they will re-visit.

Ba$tard$

Frank, found this site a while ago.

Paul

Thank you for the compliment, they are made from EN1A (1213) mild steel.

I never seem to have enough AXA toolholders... made another 3

Paul