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mgj28/10/2009 18:10:31
1017 forum posts
14 photos
OM 13 - so did we. Nice light, additive free hydraulic oil.
 
If you were a Myford owner at the time you should have taken some home!.
 
Some of those oils were really quite special - like the winter specials for ACE mobile force north of the arctic circle or the Challenger gearboxbox oil.  Some of the specs were just written around a commonly available and suitable oil like bog standard 20/50 multigrade for  engines in temperate zones, or "ordinary"  hydraulics, and what you actually got depended on who  had that contract. Shell, Esso Castrol etc.
 
I always thought they were military specials, but I learned otherwise when policing some of those contracts in DQA. 
Major Disaster23/11/2009 19:54:35
12 forum posts
Google 'Hallett Oils' of Wolverhampton.  Friendly and helpful.  He is used to model engineers who usually want small quantities, down to 1 lt. if you want.  He will sell a direct equivalent to that recommended by manufacturer and is quite familiar with Myford's requirements.  He does mail order and doesn't bleed you for the oil or the post.
 
I add that I am not connected, other than a satisfied customer for the requirements of a 254s
Jens Eirik Skogstad23/11/2009 21:29:40
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400 forum posts
22 photos
The oil Shell Tellus T37 are often used as lathe oil. Motoroil are ok as lubricant for lathe.
 
I personally using motoroil 5W-30 to my Sieg 250x500 lathe since i get oil free from car shop where i am working as carmechanic, works well as lubricant for lathe.
 
Important to keep the lathe bed, slides etc cleaned periodical free for swarf, grinding dust etc.. and lubricate before and after work. Use magnetic disc below cutting tool  to catch swarf/dust when working with cast iron because the cast iron dust + oil works well as lapping paste at bed and slides.
 
A messy lathe will not last forever!
charadam26/11/2009 14:00:54
185 forum posts
6 photos
Just to echo Major Disaster's comments on Hallett OIls.
 
They quote alternatives to most if not all of the oils & lubricants needed for our (in my case) elderly machines.
 
Website here:
 
 
 
And I too am only a satisfied customer with no axe to grind and nothing to gain from this recommendation.
Ian S C27/11/2009 10:08:22
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7468 forum posts
230 photos
I use motor oil,went to my tool supplier to see about getting a propper head stock oil,sorry we don't supply,just use motor oil,thats what we use.Someone suggested using chainsaw oil on rotating parts,it sticks to the moving parts.IAN S C
AndyB29/09/2011 20:46:39
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167 forum posts
7 photos
Hi chaps,
 
An interesting thread, especially as I have just acquired a Super 7.
 
The reason for not using multigrade oils is that they consist of the low viscosity oil with added long-chain polymers to thicken it up when required in an engine. A modern car engine is fine with this but old engines and in particular Harley engines (this is where I get my information) must not be run on multigrades because ball and roller bearings chop up the multigrade into the lowest viscosity (gnat's w**) and a 'soot' like substance.
 
Myfords have 2 ball bearings at the back end of the headstock and these will do the same to multigrades.
 
The 'soot' blocks oilways and clogs bearings which prevents even the gnat's from reaching the moving surfaces inducing extreme wear.
 
If you do have to use a multigrade on the premise that any oil is better than none, then completely change the oil regularly. An engine will pump oil around which helps with the sludge a bit but the static oil in a headstock has no chance but to kill it.
 
I can understand some of you stating that you have used these oils for donkey's years with no detriment but I can imagine that you oil the bearings far more regularly than recommended. I would say, for a beginner or someone new to the lathe, use the correct oil until you can make a far more informed choice. Beginners are likely to forget to oil bearings where the old boys would not.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Andy (the bloody (can I say that?) know-all)

Edited By Andy Belcher on 29/09/2011 20:48:24

Edited By Andy Belcher on 29/09/2011 20:49:09

DerryUK29/09/2011 20:59:29
125 forum posts
soot comes from combustion not bearing mangling.
 
If you want to chop up a multigrade use it in a modern engine where it shares it's life with a gearbox.
 
The bottom line is use what the manufacturer recommends as a start.
 
Derry.
Gray6230/09/2011 10:00:21
1058 forum posts
16 photos
The modern vehicle engine oils contain detergents and dispersants. The detergents are designed to reduce or remove carbon contamination, whilst the dispersents are intended to keep debris in suspension thus allowing the oil filtration system to clean the suspended matter from the oil as it passes through.
In most engineering equipment, the oil is in a sump and parts are splash lubricated, or the oil is in an oiler which drip feeds the bearings (as is the case on my Studer Cylindrical grinder and older Myfords).
In either case, you want the debris to settle out of solution, so a dispersant is not desirable, and there is no requirement for detergents (which I understand, can be detrimental to phosphor bronze bearings).
So, in short, vehicle engine oil is not recommended for engineering machine gearboxes, spindle lube etc. Buy the correct oil for your machine, most will be happy with a light hydraulic oil such as Shell Tellus T68 or similar.
AndyB30/09/2011 20:26:03
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167 forum posts
7 photos
Derry,
 
I am aware of how soot is formed, that is why I used the inverted commas.
 
It is a substance that looks like soot, and that is the word used as it was described to me by Century Oils, Shell Oils and Harley Davidson many years ago. Who am I to argue?
 
Also, no car or bike engines share common oil with the gearbox; I have changed and rebuilt enough of them over the years.
 
Otherwise, you are agreeing exactly with what I said.
Mark Dickinson30/09/2011 20:38:31
48 forum posts
4 photos
Posted by Andy Belcher on 30/09/2011 20:26:03:

 
Also, no car or bike engines share common oil with the gearbox;
 
 
 
 
Not a modern car but didn't the proper Mini and other front wheel drive A series cars share common oil with the gearbox
 
Nicholas Farr30/09/2011 20:46:40
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos
Hi, Mini's, 1100's, Metro's all shared the gearbox oil with the engine, the gearbox was directly below the engine block, and was the sump.
 
They also included the differential to the drive shafts.
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/09/2011 20:49:19

blowlamp30/09/2011 20:49:12
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1885 forum posts
111 photos
Posted by Andy Belcher on 30/09/2011 20:26:03:
Derry,
 
I am aware of how soot is formed, that is why I used the inverted commas.
 
It is a substance that looks like soot, and that is the word used as it was described to me by Century Oils, Shell Oils and Harley Davidson many years ago. Who am I to argue?
 
Also, no car or bike engines share common oil with the gearbox; I have changed and rebuilt enough of them over the years.
 
Otherwise, you are agreeing exactly with what I said.
 
 
Andy.
You can't have heard of the Austin/ Morris Mini, 1100/1300, Maxi, and Allegro etc, along with their many variants.
 
These cars not only shared the same engine oil to lubricate the gearbox, but also the final drive assembly.
 
These weren't brilliant cars, but they didn't seem to suffer because of the type of lubricant, which by the way, was normal 20w/50 motor oil.
 
Martin.
 
 
EDIT  ***Beaten to it!!!**

Edited By blowlamp on 30/09/2011 20:50:06

Nicholas Farr30/09/2011 20:52:18
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos
Hi Martin, I'd forgot about the Maxi and the Allegro.
 
They may not have been fandabadozy, but they were affordable for many in thier day. My MG 1100, actually failed on a big end, and pushed the con rod through the block. The gearbox didn't fail at all.
 
Regards Nick.

 

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/09/2011 21:00:59

blowlamp30/09/2011 21:04:42
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1885 forum posts
111 photos
Nick.
Do I even need to mention the Austin Princess and the Austin 1800/2200, AKA the Land Crab?
 
 
Martin.
Nicholas Farr30/09/2011 21:10:55
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos
Hi, it is wise to use the grade of oil in your machine or any other gearbox for that matter, that is recommended by the manufacturer of the machine, they may have a preference for a particular supplier, but as long as the spec is the same any supplier should suffice.
 
Regards Nick.
Nicholas Farr30/09/2011 21:15:56
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos
Hi Martin, I wasn't aware there was a 2200, probably not many in my area perhaps!
 
Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 30/09/2011 21:16:26

Allen Paddock01/10/2011 09:22:09
24 forum posts
I have a classic 1976 Honda 550 four it uses the same oil for the engine and gearbox....As does my Suzuki 800 Marauder....Same oil in engine and Gearbox...
AndyB01/10/2011 10:05:43
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167 forum posts
7 photos
Oops...I will shut up
 
The info on the oil is spot on though
Ian S C01/10/2011 12:04:32
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7468 forum posts
230 photos
I remember my dad being a bit peeved when they stopped assembling Austin Maxis in NZ, he bought a Morris Marina station wagon, reconed it had the suspention of a dray. Ian S C
Martin Newbold07/07/2016 22:01:08
415 forum posts
240 photos

Is there a Halfords Hydraulic oil that is mineral based ? I tried searching thier store, Is jack oil the same think as hydrulic oil

cheers Martin

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