Member postings for Martin Newbold

Chuck is finalised and back together. I just need to get it to fit new/old backing plate . I am intending in cuttig away around 1mm from the outside of the backing plate so its sits on the gap at the back of the chuck and finds centre . This way it can be cramped together and the holes drilled to fastenin it.

Have drilled new holes in backplate but have ordered screws to fit not sure when they will arrive

Haave fitted fron piece into chuck just need to drill holes for machine screws. Does anyone know what size they are?

This is the rear of another Bernard and Pratt I will be fixing my new back plate in the same way. The chuck has these threads as standard I just need to drill the plate to fit it. Am still looking for a 1" x 10TPI backplate for this one

No longer required anyone interested. The chuck has three threads as its a Burnard & Pratt I intend on drilling the holes and retro fitting machine screws

Here is two parts separated. I have no use for bottom half as only require the part that fits into the chuck

Edited By Martin Newbold on 23/12/2018 12:00:57

Ok its off now was quite hard material but my cobalt toll and a disk cutter did the job ok

Edited By Martin Newbold on 21/12/2018 15:44:05

I started cutting with an angle grinder with a stainless blade this has got me half way . I need to decide which parting tool to buy to get me through the rest. cheers

Thanks for looking

Is it better to have one of these to fit my tool postpost https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Myford-quickchange-toolpost-holders-vee-parting-extended-Direct-from-Myford/142945943331 or would it be better to buy a seperate or something like that goes into the tool holder. I am thinking first one for rigidity . an i get cobalt blades for this ?

this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RDG-TOOLS-12MM-PRO-LATHE-PARTING-SYSTEM-WITH-COBALT-BLADE-BOXFORD-MYFORD-TOOLS/351654553282

Edited By Martin Newbold on 19/12/2018 10:50:19

I think you might be right that its one piece . I put in the pinions and put a g cram around this and a plate to see if i could wind it out it never even stated to move . So guess I will have to cut it off in lathe. I will have to make up some brass bushes and a flanged bot to spin it .

Edited By Martin Newbold on 16/12/2018 12:31:47

Pete , thanks for replying, if you look at my last pic then you will see a centre lower stepped circle area normally this would have thee holes to mount it as a back plate to the chuck body. They are absent.

If you look at the holes on this last image you will see no thread on front backplate and on first image in last message 16/12/2018 11:21:08 you can see the thread and the towers the pinions screw into which are square on back which would allow it to be secured if it was in two parts

Am not really sure what you are trying to do from the conversations . Are you trying to find a three phase inverter to power it as its already three phase ? or are you looking to change the motor and power source? XD has already given you feedback on nylon gears and torque and its something you should check.

Hi Pete, thanks for responding . Yes the front of the chuck had Alan bolts through it into the threads in rear plate . I was referring to the rear of the chuck which usually has three threads in back to fix backing plate . These had not been drilled in back plate . The threads go right into the back piece and pass through the front with no threading

You can see the are not threaded right through suggesting its two parts

Edited By Martin Newbold on 16/12/2018 11:34:15

Pete ,

Hi, Sounds like your conversion was a good one

Thanks but its a bit strange as the Allen bolts seem to be passing through the back plate and are tapped into the top image top part which fits inside the chuck. I felt it should separate . The back plate of the Chuck was really hard to get apart and I wondered if its the same here which this item pictured . The chuck is a Pratt Burnerd Catalogue Number 1212 31305. If its one piece why would it need three Allen bolts and three pinions passing through the cam lock back plate and the Allen threads & pinion threads right into it . I also notice that the center three Allen bolts that normally bolt that cover to the chuck were not drilled which is odd.

The chuck is no longer attached to it and came apart with some difficulty, but looks like any normal Burnerd chuck inards. I could mount as is onto my new plate as is but this would be better to retrieve and either part of in the lathe or push apart. I am considering re-drilling the plate securing holes and . Then put the pinions in on a few threads and position this over the new plate and use a large cramp to put pressure on it to see if it will part.

Thanks for looking

Edited By Martin Newbold on 15/12/2018 22:23:29

Hi Howard yes there are three Alan bolts down the side of each of the pinons . The pinons screw in to the bottom plate as does the Alan bolt all removed its sitting on a new back plate as I do not have a cam lock lathe. I am wondering whether it is two parts pressed together and maybe need a press to part them or whether it is in one part and to part it of on the lathe.

Thanks for looking

Edited By Martin Newbold on 15/12/2018 19:42:02

I thought it should be like this one ?

Hi I have just bought a new project a 5" chuck which I have separated. But is now connected to back of chuck should this come off or will I need to part it. It is from a 5" Bernard chuck which was camlock. Has anyone taken one of these apart before?

Thanks for looking. Cheers

In regard to the run cap these fail regularly I have a pump for my airsystem which these start run caps fail regularly. The last one blew a hole in the side and started smoking. I cant see any prob with hands free test on your consumer unit if it has RCD equiped .

I doubt it will start as most of these motors with run capacitors are thrown to one side when the start run caps fail. My air pump is in shed at moment waiting a new cap which time wont let me arrange.

You have not said what its being fitted too. This is why i implied it might be best to bin it

Most charity shops have a certified PAT tester if you really feel out of your depth. They might give you thier contact details. George gave you sensible advice as have others the cable and gromet sound like they need replacing. This will require soldering skills and purchase of connectors for the motor posts.

Best Regards

M

Hi Dave were abouts in sussex are you PM me